“THE GENESIS OF A DRESS”
Wunderkind Boutique Gendarmen-Markt, Markgrafenstrasse, 42
BERLIN, GERMANY
July 2, 17:00
One of the highlights of Berlin Fashion Week ALREADY- was our chat with the legendary German designer, Wolfgang Joop…and a chance to preview the F/W 2009 collection along side artwork by the acclaimed modern photographer Gregor Toerzs.
We felt privileged to meet this worldly icon of style…
The designer himself was so a friendly/gracious a host at his spacious store-- just a short stroll from the Bebelplatz/Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tent.
AND-We saw a superb, couture like (we mean that) collection for F/W 2009…
THE COLLECTION:
According to the press release we received, the Wunderkind F/W 2009 collection “on one part refers to Suprematism, the abstract art movement founded in St. Petersburg in 1915, by Kazimir S. Malevich"…particularly his “Black Square” era (1923-29). The artist Sonia Delaunay served as an inspiration also…as seen in the line’s color palette of black, white, red, green, and blue.
How this translated into the clothes was through the basic colors and geometric/“abstract” and yes, complex---but flattering forms-both- tailored/masculine and soft fluid feminine garments…. a duality of garments that had many hand stitched elements as in contrast piping stitches-like a man’s Saville Row suit.
Our favorite grouping was the nature imaged frocks that boasted artful renderings of the photographs of the deer, stag, and cheetah that are part of Toerzs’ “Boy On Safari” B/W pictures--- that were suspended on the store’s walls.
Hand painted (?) black and white vertical stripes ( zebra ) on delicate coats splashed up with color squares were something we could have walked out of the store wearing. If it wasn’t so hot.
We spent many minutes oogling the inspiration “board” sketches that were under a long glass plate display case that lined the store.
“The collection is based on the aesthetic philosophy of design integrity, using the best natural materials and the highest craftsmanship showing mastery of the traditional methods of construction.”
Obviously, Wolfgang Joop is on another (higher) level…having reached a point in his life we he can envision and craft wearable clothes that reflect his singular vision. Refreshing.
OTHER FACTS:
Made in Italy (by Roscini) from -of course- deluxe fabrics (pure cashmere, wool mousseline, Japanese silks etc)…that are often exclusive fabric innovations and blends.
WHAT SURPRISED US:
Wolfgang Joop completely sold his Joop! GmbH line… c’est fini in 2001! …and is focusing on the magnificent Wunderkind collection of “suspense and surprise and fantasy…flirting with incongruity…[a mix of] traditional clothing with new fashion.” ---
Catching a bit of fresh air (there’s a heat wave in Western Europe-minus the American style A/C) ----Joop told us-unless it got “Lost In Translation”-- that he was in New York City for talks with the powers that be at Bill Blass! We have met the businessmen that own that label…American guys…and we can see why that potential pairing would not have worked out. At all!
Wolfgang Joop did buy Bill Blass’ old apartment the Big Apple in 1993…
FINAL TAKE:
We felt that Joop’s works is very personal, a true mark of someone who spent weeks thinking about ‘things.” Editorially speaking- it’s a cohesive collection…by a visionary man who appeals to very sophisticated women—a client base who can appreciate the hand finishes and extraordinary detail that goes into the ‘process’ of creating each garment. Though certainly not temperament wise, we were reminded of Ralph Rucci in that not your average consumer (or celeb) will ‘get’ the dresses and separates we saw.
We could not take pictures in the boutique…but did take a few storefront photos.
Like Dries Van Noten---a designer we thought of as we strolled through…this collection is avant-garde ---given today’s mass-market “luxury” market. We felt the F/W 2009- embraced artistic concepts of the past- merged with the modern-to create a distinct elegant collection for Wunderkind customers worldwide.
INFO:
WOLFGANG JOOP
GETTY IMAGE PHOTO OF WOLFGANG JOOP SOURCE
Words & Other Images by Judith Ecochard