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Bebelplatz, Mitte, Berlin

July 2, 2009, 20:00

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Berlin

Words, Judith Ecochard, Images Courtesy of Designer and J. Ecochard

We got an early scoop on the fashion veteran Custo Dalmau…and his poppin’ Spring 2010 collection, a lineup we usually see in September during NY’s fashion week.

Founded by brothers, Custo and David back in 1980, the California surf vibe meshed with the ooh la-la of Spain triumphantly strutted down the runway last week.

And yes, the designer MADE IT WORK....


Smart label that they are, Custo Barcelona introduced “LOWXURY,” created to define the most sophisticated line…is sustainable…affordable glamour…with a twist of irreverent humor.”



We channeled Julie Andrews hitting the high notes (SOUND OF MUSIC) when we read the show’s inspiration list.
We expected nothing less than the exuberant rich colors and prints that are characteristic of the line.

This collection found image inspirations from a wide range of entities…like “a lady’s dressing table, galloping horses, peacock feathers, microscopic plants and animals, fairy tale characters, dolls and Bengal tigers mix with girl explorers, surf chicks and eastern ladies, tropical flowers and leaves, pineapples and pansies, kittens and animal prints.”

“Irregular stripes and lines, oriental borders and rosettes, pop prints and red lips form the main graphic element, together with letters and messages, signs and postage stamps. Cupids from a variety of traditions, lovebirds, butterflies and dragonflies are the most romantic element, while skulls in Elvis wigs (!?!), pot smoking Jamaicans, and veteran boxes bring a touch of humor.”

WE THINK: ---“…what a long strange trip it’s been.”

Seriously though, this collection was a winner. Dalau must have used so many different fabrics, we were so impressed how it all worked so well-in terms of draping (silky, shimmy viscose knits), lace (vintage flourish), open weave stretch Particular in long 20’s style frocks one can MOVE IN), seeksucker, linen (dapper men's blazers), punched leather and jerseys.

We saw the harem/dropped crotch pants here ---a lot of in Berlin, actually. We remember Hammer Time so not our fav. But C.B.’s version in a metallic textile looked right.

We favored the canvas, knee/calf patched “biker” pants…that looked snazzy with the strapless tops…and the stretched smocked tops.

Mini trenches over mini skirts, tunics and blouses, and the jumpsuits that all walked by in a swirl of kaleidoscopic colors…are also winners.

And our top looks were the long boho vibe dresses and the one piece maillot swimsuits,

The dresses had enough ruching/smocking to make them fun and young in spirit…not frumpy, grandma style.

And the men looked good too…we love the designer’s outfit ---with a deep v-neck on under a tasteful and eye-catching blazer. It’s all about balance.

We think a lot of guys can pull this look off and look handsome, not ridiculous.

WHAT ELSE IS NEW: The elegant new women’s fragrance by Custo Barcelona (by expert Alberto Morillas)…samples of which were given out at the show.


ADDED PLUS: The kinda goofy German dudes (sponsor types) we sat next to…had us laughing.