ANKAR SWEDEN FALL/WINTER 2012

words/images Judith Ecochard

Empire Hotel, NYC

A breakfast presentation for the menswear label ANKAR SWEDEN-(co-hosted by all around nice guy, perfectly attired, Cator Sparks)--- was a highlight of the recent NYFW ---polished menswear, "not over editorialized, not overdone"----as one stylist told us. Or as the handout noted..."...playful, yet totally sophisticated."

Right off-the color palette, prints---including tartan (Scotland)...and luxe fabrics including cashmeres from Italy's Loro Piana...jumped out---and the inventive pairings of trousers and jackets are a how-to on how to mix textures and tones, bright and dark-effortlessly-(like the checked shirt with the tartan plaid right above)---with the classic cool ease of an idiot proof, but possibly boring matchy, matchy suit.

We had a chat with leading light Niklas Ankar ---who told us this was the line's second collection. Trousers and jackets are from a variety of Italian milled fabrics, and countries like India for Madras, tartan from Scotland-----with design inspirations from all over the world ---with the obvious fabulousness of British tailoring skills very apparent---though the actual work is done in Sweden.

"A crossover collection," he added..."Oxford sporty but with french cuffs."

Red carpet ready-

Cashmere sweaters-safe way to add color to an outfit

Cords come in 10 colors

Other influences -India-with the Nehru collar that showed up on several jackets---in traditional fabrics that made the style cool looking, not out-of-place in NYC...

even the socks added pizazz

The collection is available in two cuts---we were told- a slim Euro fit with a lower waist, narrower leg--- and contemporary fit-that is still handsome pulled together- but a bit looser.