words/pics Judith Ecochard
Lincoln Center-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NY
Custo Dalmau (with brother David) typically show an exuberantly bold, mish-mash of textiles/fabrics-colors/prints in all their apparel for their label, Custo Barcelona.
With contrasting volume, oversized outerwear pieces (jackets, coats), in wearable lengths and in winter ready fabrics ( a lot of sturdy "wild" wools and leather)---this outing actually contained separates that would work just fine with what a guy or gal already owns----very versatile!
For Fall/Winter 2012...we also thought that the pieces-were actually toned down for this label---kind'of---with the collection "...a homage to Visionaries and the pioneers of creativity." And in silhouettes---rnging from sparkling minis to tailored suits for the men.
Autumnal tones (white-purity, red-love, green-nature, brown-earth, black-unity-according to the run-of-show)...and silver and gold metallics-in appliqués-or as seemingly light weight fabrics---dominated but in a way that is the opposite of minimalism. For sure.
The signature embellishment details-sometimes a bit over the top for American tastes, possibly- but that we think are highlights of the label, were all there-the sequins, fringes, metallic applications of the fabrics, very intricate textures and compositions of the knits- plus inventive laser cuts and geometric patterns of mixed textile compositions.