Monday, April 25, 2011
PARKCHOONMOO FALL/WINTER 2011
Words/Images Judith Ecochard
Metropolitan Pavilion, NYC
A few issues back, Vogue USA had a column on the vibrant retail scene in Seoul, South Korea...though curiously, the clip primarily focused on the mass luxury brands one can buy in just about every major city, on line and in malls across the world...
as opposed to profiling unique high-end Korean born and based designers. (Doo-Ri-an American was mentioned, btw).
ANYWAY, we think if the author of that bit had actually gone to Seoul and meandered around, he/she would have found some terrific modern designers...creating edgy items for a growing consumer base of customers who 'get it' and want something that pushes the envelope, as it were.
And some of the Korean designers showed here in NYC for Fall 2011 -
Not her first show here...but similar in vibe to the avant garde Spring's nearly all white outing...this RTW collection challenged the usual/traditional concepts of what a silhouette is, from sharp angular lean lines---in solid wools and sturdy looking leather coats to ward off winter's chill...
...to protective 'bumps' via cushioning jackets that wrapped around the body...
...to draped hems and collars.
We were reminded of Rei Kawakubo ---the fab Japanese designer who changed our perception of what a futuristic shape might look like.
Other inspirations for CHOONMOO included "...the girl with the wind, and connected with the summer air, lands and reconnects with the earth."
This sensibility certainly came out in the raw tones of the materials--- with some shimmering mineral metallics --- in the mostly dark monotoned collection.
And the cuts---modern architectural shapes, unconventional....and with an industrial aesthetic we think an intellectually leaning fashion person would love.
Case in point...on our left at the show, a gal who barely looked up from doing her email on her smartphone...and kinda shrugged at the whole thing.
But on out right, two Parsons students who loved every look on the runway...and were as dazzled as we were.
We love the boots too...we could see some triple passport holding feminine spy just kicking it up with these.