Tuesday, April 19, 2011

CHADWICK BELL FALL 2011 Bohemian Grove

Lehmann Maupmin
201 Chrystie Street, NYC

Words/Images Judith Ecochard

A modern gallery space in the always arty LES...was the calm setting for one of fashion's most polished collections-that by the designer Chadwick Bell.
Lookbook tear sheets on the gallery walls

A bit out of the way from the Lincoln Center/Milk Studios RTW runway shows' hubs.. the latest teenage bloggers not exactly this sophisticated women's line of precisely tailored apparel target audience...

closed neck option with tabs...changes the look

We hoped that those desiring a modern classic wardrobe----  made from quality fabrics, with hand details and finishes---made the journey to personally experience the garments.

We got there early for a walk through with the designer, who hails from southern California...and started the label with a childhood friend, Vanessa Webster...

"The theme is Bohemian woods," Bell told us..."where I was thinking of a woman who just grabs a coat from her husband's closet to go outside in the forest."

The menswear inspiration certainly comes through in the fabric choices,,,

A Donegal tweed, double window pain Glen Plaid, Camel Hair Wool...

These clothes are beautiful Fall additions---that "feel more substantial..." (versus airy featherweight Spring 2011)...

AND  in lush autumnal colors in stone grey, steel blue, acid green, greige...

Design details are labor intensive to execute...and never excessive-for women that wear their clothes-not vice versa. As in no collars on the jackets-with perfectly sewn seams and lapels....
leather backed tie belt---special detail only the wearer might appreciate

A tailored cardigan jacket lined with charmeuse "to keep it warmer"---that's versatile---for work and casual weekends...

A patent trench in deep petrol green---a surprise textural pop that's water resistant...

And relaxed coats in heavy wool jerseys. wools and from a laser cut shearling..

Wrapped jackets---no shoulder seams ---draped flawlessly...as is a jersey wrapped cardy.

Dresses have genius zip-out linings and tabs on the collar,,,

Laser cut shearling

A modern idea of a suit...for the most demanding clientele who chair boards, run companies etc.

We really loved the evening looks...that "are a little mysterious...that capture the mystery of a woman" according to Bell.

The halter top has a single zip embedded into a back horizontal strip for the ideal fit...and assures a proper silhouette.

Glamorous and tasteful---the wool/silk dress...with ruffled oversized collar----appropriately named Cristobal (Balenciaga).

Chadwick Bell's is available at Bergdorf Goodman and privately.