MONICA BYRNE, SMOKE AND MIRRORS, HENRY DUARTE, N4, K.Z.O., HYDEN YOO, MELISSA MC CLURE, CALLEEN CORDERO
Fall and Holiday 2008 -May 14th Louis Fèraud Showroom, Seventh Avenue
Text, Images by J. Ecochard
We’ve been huge fans of Monica Byrne - aka fashion designer and- great lady-for several seasons now. A chance to preview her elegant largely evening collection at the Louis Feraud showroom in midtown-as part of a showroom event staged by the LA based Evolutionary Media Group- was a welcome invite.
Byrne’s impeccable tailoring skills-bias seams, pleating, hand beaded and sequins trims, clever side seamed pockets à la Oscar de la Renta, sensuous sheaths--in a colorful selection of luxe jewel tone fabrics and feathers (big everywhere for Fall) are highlights of a very wearable and sophisticated collection. (Available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Ultimo- Chicago, Jimmy’s-NYC etc)
PRINT EDITORIAL FAVORITE:
The blinging “Josephine Metal Encrusted Slip Dress” gives chain mail a new outlet. It weighs a ton.
We like to check out smaller labels and are happy to discover that the casual cool Smoke and Mirrors collection is a notch above the typical Contemporary line ( with funky metallic button details etc). Now in its fourth season, the California based label by Otis grads Michelle Chaplin and Emily Brandle make fun reversible swing coats lined in lumberjack plaid, and a gingham Iris top -that are winners. And the price points ($150-$300) are reachable.
Henry Duarte ( who's domain name is curiously for sale?!?) is famous for his rocker lace-up leather jeans that give all wanabes Jim Morrison types a heavy dose of sexual swagger.
For something a bit different from the Left coast designer, Duarte knits up a selection of very intricately constructed, edgy, itch-free black drapey samples with geometric precision. Made of light as air cashmere blends, often with special leather finishes, the collection reminds us of the inventiveness of the Japanese designers that broke a few rules, back in the late 80’s, early 90’s.
Effortless casual American sportswear is always in style...and is practically America's preferred uniform -from sea to shining sea.
The boutique label N4 manufactures a Holiday 2008 line of super soft fleece, velour and jersey functional separates in all of our most grab from the closet silhouettes. Neutral tones like graphite, espresso and mushroom...and more colorful teal, puce (purple) and paprika match everything we already own.
Plus easy wear thermal hoodies, boatneck pullovers, ribbed tanks, and an adorable French terry snap front coat and a swing coat fill in the blanks of missing wardrobe staples-all in a wide range of sizes too.
K.Z.O. (meaning “Peaceful Man”) is “a fashion line representative of a global consciousness” according to its designer and creative director, Joel K.
Now in it second season, we think the casual label’s basic but thoughtful “East meets West” pieces are nicely done… and particularly liked the asymmetrically zipped hoodie and iPod hole details in the Japanese street fashion inspired jackets.
Evolutionary Media also reps the New York based menswear designer Hyden Yoo-a youngish guy who tailors garb aimed at the hip urbanite who works in jobs that don’t require a conservative Banker’s suit. We like that dressier button down shirts are a bit shorter in the tail “for that untucked look” that’s not sloppy…and a nylon waterproof safari style jacket that goes with daywear casuals and business wear is functional and fashionable.
FUN FACTOID:
Hyden Yoo was a Season 3 finalist on N.B.C.’s Fear Factor…and started his line with his $50,000 winnings. WOW!
We weren’t familiar with the California living Calleen Cordero or her beautiful, handmade leather shoe collection---but plenty of upscale retailers are (Harvey Nichols, Barneys, chi-chi boutiques). Vegetable dyed leathers, hand hammered studs, and largely made from recycled leathers, Cordero's peds sport standout hand carved details that have a Home on the Range feel.
We also liked those fabulous glossy leather wristlets with huge turquoise stones-that can dress up our usual jeans/sweater/tank attire- and is a nice “eye” break from Fall’s bold geometric pieces- a look that’s a bit limited in wearability.
Also in contrast to all the Big Boldness of Fall Bling...are the delicate, hand hammered18K gold pieces that are signature looks of Melissa McClure’s “Jewelry Alchemy” collection. We've seen some of her “Architectural Nature” pieces in print editorials and adorning celebs like Jessica Simpson.
WE COVET:
The minimal twig earrings that are “simple” but eye-catching and very feminine---a cross between danglers and posts- that we think will work with any hairstyle…long, up, back or short.