Thursday, February 8, 2007

The Doo Ri Runway show

Doo Ri-Fall 2007

Date and time: Tuesday, Feb. 6, 5:00pm

Venue: the Promenade, Bryant Park

By J. Ecochard
There’s a reason the front row to this show was packed with the media and retail
elite…for CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, Doo Ri has a simply sublime and distinguished way with jersey wools, draping the Bordeaux, and evergreen or peacock blue fabric into sophisticated architectural folds that comprised the mostly swingy, mini dress collection. Touches of sequins and crystal overlays like athletic tank tops, added some sparkle to the empire waist cocktail numbers, paired with opera length, tight leather gloves - while the tulip shaped silhouettes gathered gently at the hem- will flatter the probably thin customer. The strongest looks however, were the front seamed, tapered pants with swingy tops, and the (former boss) Geoffrey Beene inspired wool jersey evening dresses- with Grecian-Martha Graham worthy wrapped tops and cut out backs, descending into flowing, long elegant trains.

The James Coviello runway show




By Vivian G. Kelly

Photographs by J. Ecochard

Date and time: Saturday, February 3, 2:40pm

The venue: NYC Bar Association, 42 W 44th St.

The verdict: +

Play a word association game and the word “romantic” pops to mind when you mention designer James Coviello. We recalled a previous Coviello collection that was homage to the twenties, which featured delicate dresses, skirts and tops that looked as delicate as cobwebs.
It’s three years later, and Mr. Coviello has stayed true to his esthetic. Better still, he has improved, these pieces look functional, and his latest effort achieves a balance between sweetness and sophistication.

The audience loved the wallpaper florals, sixties color block prints and the wonderful aquamarine, brown, olive, bronze and coral color palette. Interestingly, we previewed colors similar to these while at Mercedes Benz LA Fashion Week last October. Benjamin Moore previewed similar colors [Agave, cloud white] for the home that are remarkably similar to Mr. Coviello’s comfy crochet cardigans and vests. He too, showed cable knits, we couldn’t resist the pretty cream ruffle cable cardigan the would look good over a pair of jeans or one of Mr. Coviello’s silk print dresses.

There was a sixties bourgeois element present in the clothing that matched the mod-inspired makeup. Was Mr. Coviello thinking of Catherine Deneuve, as she appeared in “Belle de Jour”, dressed in proper tweed pastel mini dresses? Doe eyes, created with black liquid eyeliner and pale nude lips looked great with exit #13, a silk color block tunic.
Mr. Coviello harkened back to the seventies too, there were hip length crochet cardigans and vests, knit hats and the decade’s ultimate accessory, stick straight center parted hair that every high school girl in the seventies wore, after she’d flirted with “the Farrah Fawcett” and “the Dorothy Hamill”. The designer received a rousing round of applause [a rarity at NY shows] led by Queer Eye’s fashion savant, Carson Kressley

Backstage and on the catwalk with the Duckie Brown menswear collection




The Duckie Brown Menswear collection
The date and time: Friday, February 2, 1:50pm

The place:
Backstage at Duckie Brown with Daniel Silver, half of the Duckie Brown design team


By Vivian G. Kelly

Photographs by J. Ecochard

“The ten inch kilt is not actually a kilt, but a cummerbund, that was made in the Lochlaron Mill, a very old factory in Scotland” Daniel explained just moments before the show went off.
Rather than doing Disney theme-parky shows, this label’s two designers are firmly rooted in their own reality. Continues Daniel, “Duckie Brown is about our lives and the people we know. Steven’s brother [Steven Cox is the other half of Duckie Brown] who actually is an English stockbroker dude, was the inspiration for the Denver plaid shirt [and jacket] in the show.



2:28pm -
The Duckie Brown runway show,
The venue: the Showroom at Bryant Park

The verdict: ++


The line may be avant-garde, but these are supremely well-tailored clothes, accessorized with fun touches, such as turquoise suede gloves and green bowl cut wigs. The models may have green hair but they’re wearing some awfully luxurious gray pinstripe pieces. The black low-rise tux pants and vest get a punch worn with an elbow length shirt and citron wool pompom cap. As fashion is about experimentation and innovation why NOT wear a chartreuse three-armed cashmere sweater, with the third arm serving as a muffler? Even a black hooded sweatshirt isn’t ordinary, embellished with the brand’s logo, an orange and white beaded rooster and crown motif on the back. Most men probably won’t embrace the super low crotched pants, but we know that there are guys out there thin and cool enough to wear it.
On our way out, we spotted a lot of member s of the audience wearing pompom hats like the ones that were shown on the runway just minutes earlier.

Monday, February 5, 2007

John Barlett's BMOC - runway show review

10:20am – John Bartlett
The venue: the Salon at Bryant Park

The verdict: +

Mr. Bartlett’s man this season went for a 1950’s Princetonian, BMOC [Big man on campus] look that reminded us of George Hamilton in the sixties movie classic, "Where the boys are", shot in the early 1950’s. Cable knit vests in camel, cream argyle sweaters and a brown hounds tooth suit accessorized with a cream cable muffler to keep him warm when he travels across the quad to pick up his girlfriend to go out for a milkshake and fries. Hair was either buzzed short or cut short with Bryl creamed cowlicks giving the guys a sexy just out of bed demeanor, which is by the way, Mr. Bartlett’s signature hairstyle.

For outerwear, there’s a brown leather bomber jacket with an upturned lamb collar, and a loden green wool zip front jacket with leather epaulettes. For warmer fall days, there's a forest green block print sweater. Suits are boxy and broad shouldered and double vented and referenced the 1920’’s zoot suit. Sixties mod also god a nod via everyone's favorite, the black, scarlet, and grey color block turtleneck worn with black drainpipe pants.

Sunday, February 4, 2007

Aussies Sass and Bide - NY Fall 2007 Collection, show review





Sass and Bide-New York Fall 2007 Collection

Text and photographs by J. Ecochard

Conceptualized as “The Lovehawk Season,” Aussies' Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton(www.sassandbide.com) showed a luxuriously hip and well tailored collection that is sure to dazzle their fans…and attract some new ones. An emphasis on strong shoulder lines was best exemplified in a military epaulet style black wool coat and white blazer dress. A continuation of the tapered higher waist pants paired with loose camisoles and butterfly bowed blouses in metallic and black tones also looked fresh, barely hinting at the 80’s. Better yet, the over the top embellishments of earlier collections have given way to an elegant, vintage use of black sequins…most successfully in a circular motifs on the pocketed, sleeveless white v-neck dress. Accessories also veered towards the nearly demure with black top hats, lace up high heel black pumps and dark smoky leggings paired with dresses and above the knee skirts. In essence, a more grown-up, fitted and polished look for customers tired of the baby doll garbs of last year.

Nicole Miller - Fall 2007 Collection, show review






Nicole Miller-Fall 2007 Collection
Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

Date and Time:

There’s a reason Nicole Miller has a loyal fan base consisting of teens and to 30'ish types. Her clothes are cleverly hip but not kooky…. and they fit to perfection. The Fall 2007 line, consisted largely of charcoal black and white color scheme intermixed with beautiful Chulucanas and Huari prints. The ethnic Peruvian and Chilean fabrics were strikingly used in the first look down the runway, in a warm jacquard coat and later on in the show in a black and white beaded and embroidered appliqué dress …and a luxe Chulucanas stretch silk dress.
For the working gal, cropped cashmere or black twill jackets over pleated skirts in wine metal and teal lurex, lack wool jumpers…and cropped pants will add a bit of versatile pizzazz to any office. Evening looks were sleekly fitted in burnout velvets. And being a pro, Nicole Miller’s models were spot-on styled just right, with little embellishments other than whimsical bowler hats, wide belts emphasizing the waist, fresh ingénue makeup, and hair groomed into a single long braid dangling over the shoulder.

Click here for Nicole Miller

Monica Bryne - Fall 2007 Collection, Fashion Review






Monica Byrne-Fall 2007 Collection
Text and Photographs by J. Ecochard

Date and Time: Jan. 29th, 5:00 - 8:00pm
The Place: La Esquina, 203 Lafayette, NYC

La Esquina, the down the stairs, through the kitchen hip, hideaway was the intimate stage for Monica Bryne’s sophisticated couture quality Fall line. Sumptuous silks of deep chocolate brown and burgundy were cleverly seamed into both long and sleeveless sheaths. Petal and delicate pouf hemlines of black silk garments, often inserted with panels of feminine black lace, captured the essence of Parisian chic to perfection. Even Audrey Hepburn herself would have marveled at the flattering day and evening dresses that will work on all body types. No wonder high-end retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Chicago’s Ultimo snatched up the collection.
Click here for Monica Bryne

Environmentalist designer Linda Loudermilk's Fall 2007 collection review






Linda Loudermilk Fall 2007
The Date: Thursday, Feb. 1
The Place: Altman Building, 135 W. 18th St., NYC

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

Never has there been a better confluence of fashion and the environment than Linda Loudermilk’s sophisticated Fall 2007 collection. A soothing Asian Zen atmosphere ruled the runway where an inventively cut creamy “Polar Bear” Japanese rice paper wool jacket and skirt reminiscent of Japanese kimonos were standouts. A warm overcoat with many textured large panels made from corn fiber (that looked like anything but) over wood pulp leggings looked warm enough for the North Pole pre -global warming. Black tones also dominated- in for example, a bat wing layered top over wide legged, cuffed pants (a silhouette shown many times), and an adroitly seamed long black evening dress with a dramatic dutchess silk train. Overall, the designs itself should be seductive enough for consumers of high fashion…the organic, reusable nature of all fabrics used by Ms. Loudermilk, should set an example for the entire retail industry
Click here for Linda Loudermilk info.