Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Ulla-Maija Couture
WHAT IS BRIDAL “COUTURE”?
In the bridal world, the Couture standard is different than in the high-fashion world. In bridal, unlike Fashion, there’s no bullet point system and no governing body, which dictates that a garment must meet a set of very specific technical requirements in order to earn the privilege of calling itself, “couture”.
On the other hand, whether or not a bridal gown is couture, is a subjective call. So what’s a bride to do? Advises a highly placed industry expert, “She should look for the fabric, the construction, the finish, the fit, and the price point and of course, the individual look that speaks to her.”
Not every bridal designer who employs the word “couture” to describe his or her collection should do so. In the case of the Ulla Maija collection however, the designers are absolutely in their rights to call it “Ulla Maija Couture”.
COMPANY BACKGROUND
Anna Maier was a real person; she was a master tailor who came to the United States in 1871, from the Alsace Lorraine region of France. Anna was Mr. Charles W. Bunstine II’s great grandmother.
Ulla-Maija Couture's business life is under the direction of Mr. Bunstine who develops the Anna Maier ~ Ulla-Maija collections with Allison Fletcher. Ms. Fletchter, very impressively, began as a design intern after graduating from the Savannah School of Design and worked her way up to her present position.
The show’s organizers thoughtfully provided succinct descriptions and retail prices on the run of show as well as the designers’ explanation of what they think this oft –misused term means to them in the context of what they’re doing at Ulla- Maija.
Wrote Mr. Bunstine, “This statement [‘very couture’] has run through my mind incessantly. It has redefined my work. “Very couture” is the blurred imagination of the ultimate that we can create in fashion.’
THE SHOW
The show itself was sedate and dignified and as lovely as the duchesse and charmuese creations that retail well into the $6,000 – 7,000 range. The 21 lovely gowns shown hit every qualification there is for bridal couture.
The models walked languidly between the rows of silver salon chairs, and the words “ladylike” and “modern” came to mind as the soundtrack segued from Ravel’s Bolero to a track by Mary J Blige. It is hardest to design a “simple” gown, and the duchess satin fluted bias gown is a marvelous technical achievement. Today’s modern Grace Kelly “swans” will surely love this dress topped with an undyed wild color mink stole that has a hint of the Duchess of Windsor to it. The Duchess never failed to look impeccable, as did every gown in this collection.
What we loved, - the spectacular draping, lines and understated elegance that is flattering rather than overwhelming as many bridal designs unfortunately are.
Strongest were the slim bias gowns and a fluid gazar gown with twisted bodice and draped skirt. The simplest gown got our vote for best in show. The quintessentially modern halter dress with a deeply plunging back was Halston –like in its sheer elegance and simplicity. At $4,000, it was the most inexpensive offering in the September delivery.
www.ulla-maija.com