DESIGNS FOR ESTHETES-With Parisian/Asian Aesthetics
Text, Images J. Ecochard
Lookbook Images Courtesy of Designer
Bernard Willhelm’s avant garde collection for F/W- 08/09 should garner editorial nods of approval. Finally.
In business for several years, The Royal Academy of Antwerp graduate has already earned spots in wardrobes of edgy sophisticates who appreciate the esoteric
tailoring of Willhelm’s volume and draping (reminiscent of late 80’s early 90’s Japanese creatives like Yohji Yamamoto and former employer Vivienne Westwood).
Marvelous thick cotton flannel and wool textiles in lush black/white/red geometrics and “tye die” inventive color combos dominate fabric choices.These are pieces that define street modern...but will never date.
We're sorry we missed his February NY Runway show which was probably quite the scene-but we were happy to grab some time last week-to see the collection as soon as the samples arrived - at the People's Revolution Showroom. Figures, some mags had already squired away samples for layouts.
INSPIRATION: Based on the legend of the Yeoman Warder Ravenmaster aka the Beefeaters that guard the Brit’s Royal Jewels and London Tower…and feed the raw meat to the ravens.
ASSUMPTION DU JOUR: Wearers can be assured there won’t be cheap knockoffs of any of these styles.
BEST IN SHOW: Plush oversized easy wear sweaters with cozy hoods, draped cowl necks (like the “Ruff” of a Beefeater’s uniform)---can be worn belted as a tunic, or alone as a mini-dress over leggings. Size friendly and flattering.
Tiered red, white and black ruffled/bowed cotton skirt- chicette perfect with a simple sweater top or tee.
A red/ Black plaid and a grey wool draped coats, both lined and the latter edged in red- with voluptuous bell sleeves and hoods...in a hey there Little Red Riding Hood kind of fashion.
RETAIL: At hip boutiques like Seven, New York.