TWENTY-FIVE YEARS OF ITALIAN LUXURY WEAR
April 12th, Park Avenue NYC
Text, Images by J. Ecochard
Though this past weekend’s bridal wear showings are somewhat scaled down from the major market in October (for Spring deliveries), the deluxe Park Avenue boutique Atelier Aimée (aka “Beloved”) was filled to beyond capacity with eager buyers, photographers, and editors.
OBSERVATIONS:
A global slow-down hits the bridal retail markets, but the high end gowns are still selling…and at full retail prices ($4000+) for the customized frocks that demand time (for fittings) as well as investments of cash.
Bridal gowns make stunning entrances, but the rear ‘exits’ are equally, if not more, the focal points for designers- as guests and gawkers spend more time staring at a bride’s back (during the ceremony) than the front.
Costs of plush European textiles ($300-$500 yard) are impacting both gown costs for USA customers (the weak dollar) as well as the availability of exclusive fabrics due to factory closings in Italy and France. Maybe this is why nearly every dress is strapless / or sleeveless-to save a few yards!
Bridal Fashion models are curvier than stick thin cat-walkers.
Styling leans towards polished hair and tasteful make-up. Beautiful brides abound and look happy, not sullen!
Bridal runway shows start on time unlike their Fashion Week big sisters.
ATELIER AIMÉE RUNWAY REVIEW:
THE INSPIRATION: “MYSTERIOUS AND SEXY”
Designer Lucia Zanotti cites the opulent “(Giovanni) Boldini-inspired woman…distinguished by a touch of elegance and style, typical of the 1920’s, (both) graceful and feminine…” We were feeling a dose of ornate Italian Renaissance bedecking the bejeweled lovelies. Plus this collection includes luxurious headpieces that are largely absent from other lines this season and opera satin gloves paired with a sleeveless, strapless collection.
THE GOWNS: The Atelier Aimée proffers three passionate collections:
ATELIER AIMÉE MONTENAPOLEONE “Brings a touch of glamour” to classic bridal gowns with sumptuous fabrics and whimsical color touches such as French Chantilly black lace overlays and silk red ribbons.
Detailed embellishments such as silk, hand painted roses and labor-intensive hand embroideries add color and texture to lavishly draped and ruched silk, shaded organza, satin, and taffeta confections.
No wonder fashion heavyweight Gianni Versace tapped this company to conjure up his nuptial visions.
EMÉ di EMÉ LE SPOSE “…for a young, romantic and dreamy bride” innovative materials such as silk-metal and silk-copper taffeta comprise fantasy dresses for fantasy weddings. Delicate lace ruffles - in ivory, coral, turquoise, and red- add old world romantic but not overly frilly touches to gowns for ingénues.
PRET À PORTER ATELIER AIMÉE MONTENAPOLEONE Modern, sculptured silhouettes defined by refined draping, sexy necklines, and fluid skirts. Minimalist leanings are particularly in vogue for older brides and those on the second or third go-round- who’d look/feel ridiculous in fussy Princess gowns.
OUR FAVORITES:
Every dress that ambled down the runway evoked appreciative ooohs and aahs from the captive audience. It’s obvious why the meticulously crafted gowns fetch thousands of dollars. The last look, an ivory duchess satin with a corset of gleaming golden thread set around sparkling jewels-reminds us of the knock-out costumes adorning Queen Elizabeth I on canvas and film.
RETAIL: Available at Atelier Aimée boutiques in Paris, NYC and multiple Italian locations…and upscale bridal boutiques nationwide.
(Click on image to enlarge)