MITTE, Berlin
Words, Images Judith Ecochard
Contemporary fashion was on display all over Berlin in July.
When we got to what looked like an ordinary bank/building, we noticed the scores of bicycles locked up---ridden by attendees of this show for young, independent German designers.
We came specifically to see Esther Perbandt, a contemporary collection for trendy Berliners--- we have previewed before.
But first, we took in some cleanly designed Men’s and Women’s S/S 2011 from Adddress (a popular urban label), that served up low rise, pleated trousers with oversized tops for guys,
and minimalist pants and skirts under oversized sharp shoulder jackets or paired with loose blouses,
three strapped pieces---as a hem (above and below) and leggings--- that had us thinking Helmut Lang...
a cute stretchy romper,
---and hip frocks for gals.
The debut RTW collection of Austrian Manuela Baumgartner---who has toiled in the biz for several years, including a stint with London Fashion designer/Halston Creative head Marios Schwab...was equally well presented with a few key looks.
We really think Baumgartner has major talent…
One painterly printed fabric was shaped in a feminine and fierce long sleeve dress, with oversized, blousey sleeves, side pockets at the hip, gently curved tulip bottom---and belted for definition = a winner, opened the show.
Other looks had overlays to make the skirts, statements--- and her way with fabrics (draped, sewn and fitted to a model like the pro she is)---made us want to see more.
Esther Perbandt took the models to new heights, having them walk on their toes with attached cut-outs of high heel shoes.
Solid colors in light brown, saffron orange and black dominated in easy wear, slouchy low slung pants, or sleeveless, pocketed frocks with loose cuts…that are chic and polished enough for daylights to club lights fun.