EYEBEAM GALLERY, NYC February 15th, 2009
Words, Judith Ecochard
Images courtesy of the Icon Fashion GroupUnrath and Strano
UNRATH AND STRANO is a very popular upscale RTW label in Berlin… with their eponymous boutique in Berlin (and Dubai)…a must visit spot for fashionably sophisticates.
Since we are going absolutely no where as of late…we are lucky that the design team of Klaus Unrath and Ivan Starno (veterans of Vivienne Westwood’s labels) decided to bless our shores with a soup to nuts runway collection during New York’s Fashion Week.
And it was an exceptional outing. We are sure that select boutiques in fashion forward cities---- (Ikram, Kirna Zabete, Fred Segal---alert) will scoop up this collection for their glam clientele.
THE SHOW:
It was a well choreographed/edited romp down the runway comprising sixty-one looks.
Unrath and Strano, like other high-end creators, stuck to luxurious ensembles ranging from plush embossed leather skirt/jacket ensembles (day to night), fitted legging like pants in shimmery metallic materials, coquettish cocktail frocks,…to knockout ornate Red Carpet gowns and a très cool all black version of the Tux.
This attire is for wealthy modern women (and men) or celebutante types--- who have the confidence to be noticed…or have to be noticed.
Outstanding design themes included oversized bat wing/bell shaped sleeves that worked dramatically with fitted silhouettes ----and beaded and sequined hand sewn details that render even thinking of wearing a piece of jewelry---verboten.
Fabrics were all off the charts elegant…burnished metallics, buttery leather, luxe shiny satins, delicate chantilly lace, and embellished silks… crafted to perfection…
And the looks, particularly the strapless numbers, flawlessly fitted the models.
There was also a few comfy knit outerwear that are obviously took a gazillion hours to craft by hand…our favorite, a vibrant peacock blue oversized scarf, cocoon wrapped coat number.
UNRATH and STRANO are Germany’s answer to a major chi-chi America label –and reminds us in many ways of the rarified niche occupied by a modern Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Rucci, and Donna Karan.
INFO:
UNRATH AND STRANO