Sunday, September 28, 2014

MakeUp in NEW YORK:New Cosmetics Part 1

Polychromatic®-Keystone Research+Pharmaceutical=nail lacquers, polishes, gels in loads of colors+finishes….plus new technology for nail treatments.  Their offerings make us want to start our own line! Free manis for attendees-THANKS.

Part 1

Novel cosmetic applications---gets assimilated PDQ---often because the companies enabling the makeup labels-big and small---are open for business- to all with the right funds…and of course-the desire to create+package cosmetics, minimum numbers met- and market/promote them so consumers get their chance to try/buy.

Custom formulations for products do exist--- by all companies we spoke with at least---but with gel eye-liners and makeup pencils-in particular -it seems the innovations are driven by these very same companies we talk to at trade shows like the wonderful makeUp in New York Show that just took place.

Patented and patent pending ingredients and packaging-like those from skin/haircare---are abundant. We see adverts on this all the time---BUT who holds the patent-can be these 'unknown' private label entities…not the makeup brands themselves.

Depends-i.e. L'Oreal holds hundreds of patents and has its own extensive R+D departments---but reaches out to outside companies (more of that in a later post).

Schwan Cosmetics (fyi schwan=swan in German) has a huge assortment of colors, formulas, application systems and packaging… including long wearing eye pencils that go on and stay---good for warm -humid climates.
Enduring trends--- multi-tasking (anti-aging, hydrating-oil controlling, UV+ blocking) formulations (liquid, powder+pencil)- with proven results, natural and/or sustainable ingredients, colors that are bold (particularly eye/nail shades), easy applications (eyebrow pencils and concealers in new formulations-stand out),  and a global marketplace demanding products that suits their clothes (think long wearing for humid climates)skin tones and gender-specific (men's specific concealers-bronzers come to mind though we don't know the sale numbers)=lead to  the fast pace of new developments... that are impressive.


Schwan Cosmetics-enduring black-cat's eyes makeup is classic-inky dark shade sets pretty fast

Schwan Cosmetcs-Chubby lip pencils-now come in lots of colors and finishes-including the ever popular semi- matte finish… and sheer tints-l are moisturizing. Clinique's chubby pencils started this explosive segment of the market a few years back.
What we would love to try-is Schwan Cosmetics' new buildable waterproof mascara…our experience-waterproof mascara dries too hard for multi-layering-we usually applied over a lengthening mascara…but this new formulation allows for that without the crunchy Tammy Faye look…so we were told.
sheerer lip tints and-self-sharpening popular -…so always have perfect shape
Reminds us of a Charlotte Tilbury (makeup artist) quip ---that she use to need five mascaras to get the look she wanted-before she came out with her own (which we have not tried).

German company Faber-Castell (since 1763) is acclaimed for their writing instruments---and in more modern times ---their fab high performance cosmetics from a country probably still celebrating its recent high drama World Cup win.

We swooned over this salesperson's collection of cosmetic of pens and pencils. A lot to love…including the Metallic Chic+ Gleam Dream collections -which-IMO kinda resurrects the popularity of those shimmery metallic chubby pencils (90s)…into 21st century formulations that is PVC free, 16 hour-long wearing-water smudge and transfer proof…air tight(!) and sharpen-able Jumbo Plastic pencils.
Long wearing=idiot proof application=Twist and Shout. Beyond black long wearing colors--in the new Beyond Paradise colors-Stroke of Genius liquid eyeliner-comes in multiple rich intense pigment colors and pearl effects with a felt tip-one stroke needed. Bet this looks awesome- on darker skin tones…in particular where black cats eye's flair could use some oomph (IMO)
Back in the day, we remember lighting a match and heating up a pencil for smoother applications… Now---easy on is a given-and Faber-Castell ingredients are often Eco-Cert with 20% actives in formulas.

Love-Simply Red velvet smooth satin finish-semi-matte moisturizing chubby lip pencil with high pigmented long wearing color- with hyaluronic acid, panthenole, &ceramides.

We should have asked for a sample of this…the Cool Cat-is -"the perfect combo for creating 'rock-chick' look that never goes out of style." One end is a deep black 12 hour liquid liner with an extra long tapered tip…the other is a creamy kajal with an intense finish (self sharpening cap)…in an airtight combo stick packaging.
Faber-Castell-95% wood is sourced from sustainable supply-as indicted on the pencil---Forest Stewardship Council logo from. PLUS---all we saw are paraben free-imo Europe is more on board than USA  with this. 

Gutberlet Cosmetics-is also German based---and a parent to a resurrected writing instrument company (Kaweco-since 1883).
long felt tip liquid eyeliner…precise application ---long wearing.

we were obsessed with these base model sticks-with spongy tip---clicks into-  on the other end-a reservoir for ---in this case-liquidy concealer. …and an online search conjured up all sorts of patents held by H&M Gutberlet®
We got a show and tell here-via ARTDECO--- a growing German makeup brand that has really not taken off on this side of the POND yet -though we got to try some of the line's makeup from press event---last Spring.
best sellers-we can see why the double sided Eye Designer Applicator-Eye Designer Refill-Art Deco

by-Gutberlet---the makeup eye shadow cartridge- is replaceable/changeable---clicks-twists right into the base unit with the applicator on each end. Very eco---we were wondering how this could be retailed here…38 shades fragrance free available (we counted).

This is going to be popular-we see hints of this backstage…in place of the now classic smokey eye---(in shades of grey, black, brown)---Jovi's Pastel Shadow pencils. "...highly pigmented soft matte pastel shadows in silky smooth texture' are a fun alternative---go on easily with one stroke (though it is build-able)…and very long lasting. We tried the pretty blue shade-went for an hour long pool swim---and it held up better than our right rotator cuff.
IMO pastel tones will be more popular next Spring 2016---we reported on many backstage makeup-at NY fashion shows for S/S 2015---and didn't see much in the ways of pastel eye shadows…but we will. FYI: the lemony shade of yellow-interesting--- with our green eyes …fair skin-paired with coral lip gloss  This shade look fab on darker tones.
JOVI Cosmetics (from Spain)---was new to us but we got to test drive a bunch of their fabulous portfolio of wooden and liquid ---and jumbo automatic pencils for lips, eyebrows (important trend lately)---and eyes.

Another fav …Dip Liner liquid eyeliner-here in a purple with gleaming-shiny metallic hints ---reminded us, in a good way-of automobile-Plymouth Colt (1994)--- color--back in the ole' Nirvana days.

The company is ISO 9000:2008 certified following GMP guidelines (which we searched-is quality management systems verified by internal audit checks or by an independent verification company) .

Not a great picture---but from Korea's HWA Sung Cosmetics…we were topped in our tracks by this double ended "Lip Stick and Lip Powder Pearl" combo…as many makeup artists-recommend putting a bit of glitter on cupids bow to highlight lips-give the illusion of a fuller pout. Well this two sided instrument-is a semi-sheer lip color (customizable of course)- one end---and a powdery gold metallic on the other…neatly achieves that with texture thrown in. Reminds us of some of the new nail art applicators.

Cosmetics: Part 2