ENGLISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER COLLECTION OF THE WEARABLE AND UNEXPECTED
IMAGES, WORDS, JUDITH ECOCHARD
JULY 22, ENK-IMG MENSWEAR RUNWAY SHOWS-PIER 92 NYC
We like to take in the RTW shows masterminded by Andrew Buckler…and hauled our jet lagged selves over to the Westside Highway for his Spring 2009 collection.
We liked what we saw and feel this line has a lot of retail potential.
Plus the tightly edited runway romp of 44 looks was creatively styled BUT NOT wacky enough as to distract from the clothes like in the past.
INSPIRATION: TONES
The Brazilian “Concrete” artist Hélio Oiticica’s “original and uncompromising use of color;” DEEP BLOOD RED, RAW PUTTY, PISTACHIO MUSTARD, DOVE GREY, CADET BLUE, NAVY.
INSPIRATION: DESIGN
“Medieval knights infused with indie demeanor, and a touch of humor”----which is always a running theme in Buckler’s work. We got the rock and roll edge too as the silhouettes were a wearable mix of ‘dropped’ crotched pants (saw that in Berlin too), ‘funnel’ necks with a nod to fencing…and modern lightweight layered looks.
Blazers and suits’ lines were crisply tailored-with enough grown-up polish for urban office workers toiling in all but the most conservative industries.
In the run of show, Buckler also mentioned the contrasting elements of Louise Bourgeois, the brilliant surrealist and abstract expressionist-who worked with themes from “identity, sex, love, alienation, and death.
STYLING: Few hats and oversized gym haulers. A few Bucklerish touches like a black visor.Guys looked healthy.
TAGS:
ANDREW BUCKLER,