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Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, Courtesy of Mercedes Benz
Time/Place: Friday, Feb. 1st, @ noon
540 West 21st Street – The Forbidden Zone [bet. 10th & 11th Aves.]
It was a trek in the rain, coming and going to Yigal’s show, but worth every second in the end. In spite of the distant location and the rain, Yigal’s supporters came out and he had a full house.
11:38am- BACKSTAGE
We had just enough time to run backstage, where Yigal was administering the finishing touches on the models queuing up in line for opening looks. All was quiet except for assistants rounding-up straggling models.
From the first look, we could tell that this collection was going to deliver on Yigals’ trademark sexy-artsy vibe. The darkly handsome Mr. Azrouel himself fit right in. His somewhat disheveled appearance [probably from staying-up till all hours working] only added to his appeal.
The smoky eye Polly Osmond and the M.A.C. Pro team did and the pin curl inspired hair Teddy Charles and the Rusk team came up with were interesting, moody, and sexy – just like the collection.
THE YIGAL AZROUEL SHOW – the women’s and men’s collections
We were so engrossed examining Teddy Charles’ work, that the show started before we realized it. Luckily, we were able to secure a standing spot by the beginning of the runway, with as good a view as our assigned seat.
The show was set against a video of a NYC or Paris metro train and stations, adding to the worldly urban feeling.
THE WOMEN
Highlights: Tonal variations on wash dyed fabrics, deconstruction and raw finishes, lots of rich texture, and great styling by Kate Young and Mr. Azrouel.
The women reminded us of French style icon, French Vogue Editor in Chief, Carine Roithfeld, maybe because of the leaner than lean tuxedo pants and high heels and overall body-conscious silhouette. The short pleated skirts looked great with the black tights and stiletto ankle boots. Although many designers also showed nubby tweeds, the play between tougher tweed bottoms and frothy organza blouses was in perfect balance here.
The color palette: moody – mostly black and gray with some wonderfully timed splashes of absinthe green – THE accent color in New York for fall 2008. It looked great just about every which way – in a raccoon vest, a plumed dress and a graceful jersey gown.
THE MEN
Highlights: Yigal men’s is in its 3rd season and kept to its core concept of classic tailoring and utilitarian silhouettes toughened-up through some deconstruction. These looked like clothes a cool guy in the Arts would wear. We liked the eclectic layered looks like exit #31: A cypress garment washed leather bomber, striped rugby shirt, black tee and black cotton tux pants. The men all wore tweed high-tops with a cracked leather toe by Yigal Azrouel for K-Swiss sneakers.
*THE A.L.T. SEAL OF APPROVAL: On our way out, we caught-up with Vogue’s Andre Leon Talley, who loved the absinthe jersey gown and the shorter sequin silver top and skirt.