Text, Photos by J. Ecochard
and courtesy of the Designer
Talent Dabs In Simple Hooray For Hollywood Posh
West 10th Street, NYC
February 8th
Jenni Kayne is young and a seasoned fashion veteran toiling away in the garment biz since the age of 19 before launching her own line in 2003. Twenty something celebrity types, when not in rehab, regularly don her clothes.
We feel she’s getting there-and we are getting a sense of what to expect from Kayne...luxe fabrics and updated American classics.
THE SCENE
The place was packed…from spillover of Grande Dame, Donna Karan’s just finished runway show. At first, editors and assorted photographers were huddled in a stately front room where a trio of lovely ladies put a classical spin on Nirvana’s tunes (the mourned and missed, ground breaking Seattle based ‘Grunge’ rock band).
Nothing like listening to Nevermind(’s) smash hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit” as a set-up for a collection. Amusingly for us, editorial chicettes, perhaps because they were still in Brownie uniforms back in 1991, had no idea what compositions were being played. It was all Beethoven to them. Ladies, get a clue…the video is on YouTube.
But we digress.
THE COLLECTION
Once the presentation - a staged format where models posed and perched on slightly elevated platforms was revealed-the eyes took over for the ears. Sightlines aside, the stately West Village drawing room served up a true winter collection largely in fitted black and navy heavy jersey and touchable soft wool fabrics.
The always-popular leopardish print, first made popular by screen siren Sophia Lauren, added elegance and pizzazz- in a draped scarf, a mermaid style skirt, and a gauze square tunic over a black wool mini.
Dress/skirt lengths were varied- one above the knee cocktail length slim wool twill shift with a black mesh boatneck was as ingeniously simple as a classic white cotton shirt neatly tucked into a black jersey high waisted mini, and a long black jersey column gown with dramatic swaths of black velvet that highlights a gal's curves. Ah-the lovely Rita Hayworth must have smiled down from above.
The forties were heavily referenced, mostly by accessory choices of silver fox tie wrap, fur collars, Jenni Kayne for Patricia Underwood fedoras, leather/suede La Crasia gloves, Ben Montoya’s over-sized black sunglasses…and the defined shoulders of loose, double breasted jackets over pencil skirts or drapey trousers.
Grunge may have been on Jenni’s Kayne's iPod…but we feel the vintage inspirations owe more to the glamour of Big Band/torch singer, swank hangouts like the famed NYC Stork Club or chi-chi Hollywood’s Coconut Grove Lounge. In a way, the collection also tipped its hand to American icons; Ralph Lauren, New York based Carolina Herrera, and the 60’s version of movie star Elizabeth Taylor.
Not for everyone, and Kayne will probably be accused of being too referential…but we saw some separates to have and to hold.