Text by J. Ecochard
Photos by J.Ecochard and Courtesy of the Designer
“MUSCULATURE” –A DRAUGHTSWOMAN DRAMA
February 6th 2008
Bumble and Bumble, NYC
Two things we know we can count on at a VPL Runway show…a rockin’ soundtrack (by Henry Lau and Ben Brunnemer) and deftly cut, seamed color blocks and slashes of clingy fabrics that hark back to Ms. Bartlett’s background designing lingerie and action/performance wear.
This season’s inspiration-according to the run of show notes, comes from two artists; the first, Hans Bellmer was a German Surrealist artist who re-imagined mechanical dolls into “perversely erotic Freudian fairytale(s)”… figuring into the bronze D-Articulation dress (Look #33), the bustier/ bra sets and the brown Armadillo skirt (Look # 14).
The second is sculptor Louise Bourgeois who’s “swelling female forms” and manipulation of “stretch” materials played into multiple looks including the curved sleeve of the jackets and the choice of ultra sheer cashmere and slinky jersey fabrics.
Plus, VPL played on the masculine/feminine contrasts of men’s tailoring with doses of military detailing-and the womanly seamed separates that followed the “musculature” of the body.
As an intellectual exercise, the collection was cerebral (the notes thank "thinking" actress Tilda Swinton)...but even high school drop-outs will find some of VPL’s garb intuitively appealing. We loved the fitted knit wool dresses, smooth sweaters and defining leggings in neutrals like putty, beige, black and tan spiced up with an orangey vermillion and navy. The cuffed, chunky heel black leather boots by Jean Michel Cazabat for VPL fittingly added to the ggggrrrrrrrl vibe of the clothes.
Hair/Makeup
Backstage interviews with hairstylist Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble….and Miyako Okamoto for Shiseido, served up some trade tips.
The slick twist on the often seen ballerina bun was refreshing. Models’ hair was saturated with Bumble and Bumble’s -Bb Styling Lotion and Bb Prep, parted, twisted and pinned-then smoothed over with Bb’s Sumo Wax.
The dewy skin, bare faced “innocent” look was achieved with a soft pearly blush, no eyeshadow with glistening eyelids brushed with sheer lip gloss…and “lot’s of black mascara.” The warm, earthy pink tone of the lips was a custom color but Okamoto noted that Shiseido has a similar “deep fuchsia lipstick that’s softer on the eye than what we are used to seeing.”
