Saturday, September 21, 2013

NAUTICA Men's SPRING 2014 Black Sail Collection

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week/Lincoln Center-NYC

GFs will be borrowing this charcoal cotton/nylon rope sweater-shown with red waxed cotton board short
VF Corporation-which owns the global lifestyle label Nautica---also owns several outdoor/casual lifestyle brands ---The North Face, Jansport, Eaglecreek, Smartwool, etc...that we cover as part of Outdoor Retailer tradeshow.

Their most fashion-y ex-brand imo-was John Varvatos- which went back 100% to that besides 7 For ALL Mankind-we figure Nautica is the company's most on trend label...and its Black Sail Collection-by Nautica-it's most modern.

The reason we're going on =the  Chris Cox designed effort we saw-was rather trendster Euro-chic---fused with that "modern waterman...nautical design"---especially the ensembles with pants cut slightly looser from the waist to the the thighs, and then fitted kinda tight from the knee down-a silhouette that would appeal to a different niche of guys than what we think of as the typical Nautica male customer.

Can't really tell from all of these pictures...but the slightly dropped crotch-modified harem pants thing ---is something American men by and large ---have ignored--
It did remind us of how our 8 year old nephew's pajama bottoms fit him...but as our style guru/pal Carl Ayers ( told us---"...they're just catching up to the other labels..."

Ditto-the way a few of the jackets/anoraks fitted the male models-shorter lengths- hitting top to mid hip bone-with tighter sleeves...
First look-a winner-Neutral color blocked nylon hooded trench to wear year round-hope they have a female version-w/ high snap collar, velcro storm flap closure, adjustable waist, great details we wished we saw up close, neutral color blocked cotton/nylon rope sweater, stone nylon sail pant with canvas trim
Other pants-casually rendered with a 'regular' fit- rolled cuffs optionally-were more ruggedly handsome to our eye...more classically cut.

This Marina blue cotton 3-1deck  jacket-with removable metallic ripstop liner, center zip with storm flap velcro closures -also at cuffs, plenty pockets...very well done---with blue poly ocean print pleated trunk

Tonal wise-the nautical shades were all there---navy, white, pops of life vest orange, sandy beige (plus basics like charcoal, black)---solids and color blocks-and a terrific all shades of blue ocean print- that was used in shorts and trousers.

Big BIG plus-the  use of innovative -technical fabrics throughout the collection, deftly tailored into street wear that could double as athletic wear--- with four way stretch, shape retaining memory, active+textural yarns-woven into well done sweaters---

Pieces that can withstand the weather---for guys on the move.
one of our fav looks-pumice grey nylon shape memory technical sport coat w/ a navy stretch nylon scuba mock neck, chalk cotton tech blend l/s performance crew, stone nylon sail pant with canvas trim

Even the cotton used in  the wonderful sweaters/hoodies and shirts-are bumped up ---embedded with performance properties.

Overall-there was a lot to like here---multi-tasking tech trenches, sailing savvy jackets/vests, boatneck sweaters---seam sealed water tight bottoms...constructed well-with details one needs to see up close to appreciate.

Other credits---hair-rugged shorn with shorter sides, more length up top-fresh, clean cut good looks with bit of edge-tamed with some product-by Jorge Louis for Privé, Shoes by VF Corp owned Vans, and the make-up by Janessa Pare for Aveda-had the guys looking outdoorsy healthy and kissed by the sun,  bronzed...  with spot-on styling by Brian Coats.