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HOUSE OF ORGANIC-EKOVARUHUSET

ECOLOGY FRIENDLY - AND OUT OF THE WOODS!

Text, Runway Images by J. Ecochard

Fall/Winter 2008 Collections

Park Avenue, New York
February 7th, 2008


Our brows arch into a pointed John Belushi “Animal House” pose when we read published chronicles about celebulites-and their “eco” lifestyle-with images featuring them outfitted in clothes requiring toxic chemicals and pesticides to manufacture.

The tedious crunchy claim of boring “eco” fashion hasn’t been relevant for years-check out the fierce Linda Loudermilk's or vegan Stella McCartney collections for proof. From the soup (basic materials) to the nuts (runways shows in ecologically designed event spaces made from “clean” recycled materials) - the fashion industry is making inroads…

So we were surprised by the small initial press turn out at the LEEDS certified Haworth space for the House of Organic’s first three runways shows. The editors missed out on some of the more graceful collections presented all week.

TEXTILES & FABRICS

Our first stop at the 2nd floor location- was a tasteful exhibit area where we were happy to see the ecologically hip State Street PR team, Kristina Ratliff and Ryan Urcia…with a client in tow. We were quickly introduced to said client, Sandy MacLennan, a jovial Italian guy who founded an innovative textile firm, C.L.A.S.S., with partner Giusy Benotti.

Currently based in Milan, this showroom of green fabrics, who’s motto is “Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy” came together just over a year ago as a provider/platform of luxe materials worthy of couture. As MacLennan passionately recounted, “trends come and go…ecology is not in a corner anymore.” He felt that if one “puts it (high-end fabrics) in front of an audience that uses it” -much like the “Field of Dreams” motto-build it and they will come.

As proof-C.L.A.S.S had a humongous armoire full of drop dead sumptuous fabrics, fibers including the Inego brand, and yarn samples from 80 different suppliers- convincing us that momentum for the showroom’s ecological and cruelty free products will go way beyond their current Milan RTW designer clients.

A New York C.L.A.S.S showroom is set to open this summer…a good thing given the mob scene surrounding Bettoni when we left the event,

THE SHOWROOM

Haworth is an ‘ahead of the curve’ furniture/design company of flexible office spaces that launched a eco line back in 2003. Now their stunning showroom/performance space in the Pershing Square Building on 42nd Street and Park Avenue… is gorgeous and green. Configured by architect Eva Maddox, the huge 30,000 square foot space is living proof that environments can be easily and affordably reconfigured dependant upon a company’s needs—using recycled and non-toxic materials. It’s a dramatic sunlit venue for runways shows- as palatial windows, soothing cream colored stone walls, a tomato red carpeted seating area outfitted with a plush couch, soaring 10-30 foot high ceilings, and angled sculptural chrome track lighting - warm up the clean, contemporary space. Site lines are excellent.

Image courtesy of Haworth

Recycling bins for the plastic water bottles and cups used to serve organic wines are no-brainers...a practice we would love to see other fashion venues adopt.

ECO FASHION

The model Summer Rayne Oakes started the event barely clad... but was soon joined by fashion veteran (plus beloved Season 4- Project Runway contestant) Elisa Jimenez speed constructing a bamboo/spandex beach worthy dress for the host. Jimenez herself was wearing her ecology friendly designs and a cool pair of recycled materials’- high top sneakers from the trying to be PC- NIKE juggernaut. (The snazzy footwear line is set to launch in September).

Appropriately wrapped and tied, Oakes then introduced the first lineup by Ekovaruhuset, a Swedish store and design collective that uses only organic materials and “locally produce garments according to Fair Trade guide lines.”

The 37 looks varied in fashionable/quality terms-which makes sense, given the various skill levels of the designers. We could see ourselves in an adorable violet cotton/hemp “wiggle” dress with crotchet trim over the graphic slate cotton leggings by Melissa Kirgan (Look # 18). To ward off the cold- Look # 28, a cozy black wool cocoon coat with ruffle scarf over a cream wool inter-lock sleeveless dress by XingZhen Chung-Hilyard (Look #29) was workably marketable. For day to night, a simple but sophisticated ivory wool jacket with puff back details over tapered long pants (Look #24) by Meiling Chen was fetching. Applause also goes to a 1940’s inspired black wool jacket with hemp/silk charmeuse trim paired- with a matching pencil skirt plus black glass vintage buttons by Amy Mohlenhoff (Look #34).



Ekovaruhuset’s Lower Eastside New York boutique…at 123 Ludlow Street, is now a must stop off the “F” train.





















Next up were 14 outfits by Swedish designer Anja Hynynen , a beautiful gal with a strong handicrafts background. Her timeless refined bearing translated well into her tailored garments of woven tweed Shetland wool fabrics (in collaboration with Scotland’s Isle of Mull organic weavers Ardalanish), knits, and embroidered embellishments.























Our favorite ensemble was the last look- a rocker worthy creamy colored hemp flounce coat/dress that would look perfect on any starlet, or us!




















The fashion brand Righteous is the baby of Paula Kermfors and Kajsa Holst, two Swedish trained human rights lawyers who realized “that they wanted to work more sustainable with development, than what they sometimes experienced in the development-discourse” according to the program notes. For Fall/Winter 2008 the team selected the talented Katarina Vickovic for a tightly edited nine looks that any working gal urbanite can wear. With slim fitting black and rust jersey wool skirts and dresses- the better looks oozed polished chic.

























MAKEUP/MUSIC

Natural skincare and makeup line FACE Stockholm had the models from Click, ID and Red agencies glowing. A special mention goes to their luscious pinky red 25 Ä lipstick, created to celebrate the firm’s twenty-five year anniversary…and to benefit The Lower Eastside Girls Club environmental initiative, “Girls Gone Green.”


We aurally gave credit to the trio of musicians Carlos Vivanco, Mila Watson (from the progressive/psychedelic band Andromeda Crash) and Tor Söderin-for ambient music that kept the beat going for the late start of the show- but didn’t overwhelm us with sonic noise.