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Showing posts from February, 2008

THE GQ CFDA FUTURE MENSWEAR COLLECTION PARTY: Gilded Age, Rag & Bone, SPURR

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel



Time/Place: The unofficial kick-off to NY Fashion Week Fall 2008,
Wednesday night, Jan. 30th,, Rockefeller Center,

This show’s purpose was to showcase GQ Magazine’s picks for the honor of best new menswear talent in the USA. It was also the unofficial NY Fashion Week kick-off, judging by the industry VIP’s in attendance, including Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi and Fern Mallis. Among the capsule collections on display were: Gilded Age, SPURR, and Rag & Bone.
The overwhelmingly large crowd and the great menswear on display, led us early on, to the conclusion that this event was a hands down success within our first 5 minutes in the venue. A few words with the runway’s #1 lens man, Dan Lecca, confirmed our assessment. Said, Mr. Lecca, while hunched over his laptop busy downloading event images, “ I’m very impressed with what Jim Nelson [GQ’s Editor-in-Chief] has done here. These clothes are very wearable and put together in a very well-done pr…

LINGERIE AMERICAS- FALL 2008: Lola Haze™ Miss Oops®, Nu Bras®, Hollywood Fashion Tape, Sheandme, G.DAmico, Sexy Bastard by Buckler

WHAT LIES BENEATH REVEALED

Text, Images by J. Ecochard except as noted

Metropolitan Pavilion, NYC
February 26th, 2008

Cruising the aisles of the lingerie exhibitors on the last day of the three day tradeshow turned up more designers of foundation garments and leisure wear with a special something.

Interestingly, what walked the runways for the just finished NY Fashion Week subtly translated into lingerie separates, consciously or not. Meaning:

COLOR-In addition to usual neutral tones, lines were toughed up with darker/ edgier shades, shimmery metallics, and autumnal prints. Also pop neon eighties-style.

DETAILS: Overly frilly feminine looks of Spring 2008 dialed way back. Slashes, cuts and technology innovations (like supportive elements, wearability) more important.



INNERWEAR AS OUTWEAR: Nearly every line we saw had separates that would work layered over tank tees, as cover-ups for swank pool lounging, as statement pieces-instead of a necklace for example, functioning like bold accessories, …

GILDED AGE – HURRAH FOR ORGANIC FABRICS, NATURAL DYES AND MAKING GARMENTS THE OLD FASHIONED WAY

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, J. Ecochard

All images from the Presentation of the Fall 2008 Men’s Collection at the Woolworth Building, Tuesday, February 2nd , 2 – 4 pm


Time/Place: The GQ CFDA Future Menswear Collection Party
Rockefeller Center, Wednesday night, Jan. 30th, 2 days before the show


What we previously knew about “The Gilded Age” had nothing to do with the eco clothing line we discovered at the GQ party. Back in the late 1900’s [1878-1889] a great many fortunes were made, like John D. Rockefeller (oil) and Andrew Carnegie (steel). They were either businessmen or ”Robber Barrons” depending on your point of view. On the other side of the coin, there was flood of immigrants who came to Manhattan who dressed in dark and earth colored palettes such as the ones we saw on the Gilded Age preview platform. We’re happy to report that the Gilded Age we discovered at the GQ event was nothing but positive.
We braved the throng gathered around designer Stefan Miljanic long enough to ask a …

BACKSTAGE BRANDS- MAKEUP SECRETS

Text, Backstage Images by J. Ecochard

Products Makeup Artists Rely On!

THE 411
Check out the make-up cases of the pro’s (no matter who they’ve pledged allegiance to) and certain beauty products always seem to be packed in the stash.

For a few seasons running, casual glimpses of these venerable treasure chests of colors turned up European skincare lines that made the voyage stateside without any advertising campaigns…but because they work.

WHEN INSIDERS SPEND THEIR OWN MONEY ON POTIONS AND LOTIONS-we pay attention.

EMBRYOLISSE

Founded by a French pharmacologist in the 1950’s, the skin-care brand Embryolisse works with the derma’s “natural barrier properties.” Cutting edge technology and plant extracts are tossed in the brew of all products-serving up a complete line to cleanse, moisturize, and restore skin tone and elasticity, and reduce wrinkles.

The multi-functional Lait-Créme Concentré (a.k.a. 24 Hour Miracle Crème) was found backstage everywhere-from mid-town’s Bryant Park Tents to f…

LINGERIE AMERICAS CEO, PATRICE ARGAIN, TALKS ABOUT HOW THIS SHOW HAS GROWN AND WHERE IT’S HEADED

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel


TIME/PLACE: The Altman Building, West 18th Street,
Early Sunday morning, Feb. 24th.

Our first stop at LINGERIE AMERICAS was a sit down with Lingerie Americas’ CEO, PATRICE ARGAIN.
Granted, this isn’t Ready To Wear and doesn’t get nearly the attention that NY Fashion Week does, but the lingerie market is nothing to sniff at.
*Dun & Bradstreet reported in 2006 that the industry's estimated 179 establishments posted annual sales of nearly $1.9 billion. New York led with nearly $827 million in sales, followed by New Jersey with nearly $229 million in sales, and Connecticut with nearly $225 million in sales. Comprised of seven different specialties, the primary segment was brassieres (nearly $973 million in sales) with bras, girdles, and allied garments trailing with nearly $704 million in sales.
Given these numbers, it’s not surprising that there are five lingerie market weeks a year in the US.


Lingerie Americas has steadily been growing in …

LINGERIE AMERICAS: Some great Eco Chic lines and just plain adorable robes and intimates

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel


TIME/PLACE: The Altman Building, West 18th Street,
Early Sunday morning, Feb. 24th.


Our focus this season was on locating some great new Eco chic resources meaning resources in which fashion comes first, and they just happen to be Green. WE called our search for these resources, “MISSION FOCUS GREEN”.


MISSION FOCUS GREEN
RESOURCE # 1: THE PUR CASHMERE line.
Everyone was talking about the Pur Cashmere line up on the 4th floor, with good reason.
Pur Cashmere combines Jil Sander chic with an Eco Conscience, just the kind of resource that gets our heart racing.
We were initially drawn in by a gorgeous fluffy white robe and once inside, discovered much more.

Pur Cashemere co-founders Leslie Deane Roth and Lynne A. Shanoski have been in business for 3 years. While they’re very pro-eco, they’re market savvy and understand that the vast majority of the women trolling the floor at Neiman Marcus is interested in great design first, eco second.
The result of 3…

INDUSTRIAL ROCK RAD HOURANI-AN EDGY FALL 2008 DEBUT

Meatpacking District, NYC
February 8th, 2008

Text, Backstage Images by J. Ecochard
Runway Images Courtesy of Rad Hourani

The haunting voice of Johnny Cash singing Trent Reznor’s (Nine Inch Nails) moody “Hurt” filled the stark white space on Bumble & Bumble’s eight floor gallery. So right off, we knew we were going to love the music played for Canadian stylist turned designer Rad Hourani’s mid-day show.

And then backstage- we noticed a clutch of top tier models getting board straight hair extensions-and figured out that Hourani must have something special about his clothes too.

Thirty looks later, we joined the choirs of universal praise for the fitted masculine/feminine silhouettes with strappy details that channeled early Helmut Lang and Anne Demeulemeester…and like Lyn Devon’s show-was totally 2008. Merci.


The modern edgy vibe of leggings, scrunched lean pants, silk sleeveless tops, and strong shoulder long jackets and winter coats will find street chic wearers amongst the young, th…

CAMILLA STAERK-GETS IT RIGHT FOR FALL/WINTER 2008

Scandinavian House, New York
February 8th, 2008

Text: J. Ecochard

New Yorker by way of Denmark, Camilla Staerk and her Fall 2008 collection lived up to the accolades heaped on her by Gen Art (and its Fashion Fund that co-sponsored the show), Top Shop’s New Generation Award, loads of editorial ink, and A-listers who wear her garb… and probably paid for it too.

Staerk’s 2007 and Spring 2008 collections showed deft use of bright textiles and polished austere outfits… befitting a native from Hamlet’s brooding abode. This collection’s sophisticated lineup, amped up with vibrant white and red colors, balanced by enchanting blue-ish greens and ash greys, was truly a creative, and no doubt-commercial leap forward.

THE LOCALE:
Park Avenue’s multi-stored glass sheath Scandinavian House -is emblematic of clean, modern architectural design and was a good choice, venue-wise for Staerk’s runway romps. The shows were staged several times to accommodate fans and press temporarily under lock down at the…