Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Academy Of Art University-NYFW SS'16 Backstage


The Academy of Art University fashion week runway show was a highlight of this season's (SS'2016) packed NYC schedule.

Notably design-wise-coinciding with fashion's gender dressing 'discussions' ---the students offered up magnificently tailored menswear inspirations-for women...and structured minimalist silhouettes for men-that expand upon the traditional ensembles...reminding us of groundbreaking Japanese and Antwerp designers...from the 1980s-1990s.

As always-the fabrics and hand-wrought details =mind blowing.

Everyone gets the 411 on the runway walk...the design students listen up
Before the show...we had a chance to chat with many of the student designers-who seemed rather calm to us. Very impressive.

r-Liz Li MFA Fashion Design, l-Bom Kim MFA Knitwear Design -crafted the most exquisite women's wear with hand painted flourishes- inspired by traditional Chinese paintings. 
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hand painted fabrics, embroidery, and custom knitwear designed by Kim -inspired by Chinese paintings+abstract art/ freehand brushwork=stunning-natural palette with contrasting black details
Liz Li + Bom Kim

Liz Li and Bom Kim-steam it out...gorgeous!
Wenhan Yuan MFA Fashion Design 'menswear for women' crafted very wearable separates out of suit fabrics, cotton+paper textured fabrics. Reminded us of Ann Demeulemeester

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Wehan Yuan

last minute fittings-show stylist was Marcell Rocha for Workgroup

Ruone Yan-cocoon like layers of jersey, leather, beige tone canvas-custom dyed with oolong tea (eco bonus points!)
Ruone Yan BFA Menswear Design -collection inspired by Cephalotus aka Venus Flytrap

Max Lu with Jingci Wang

r-Max Lu MFA Fashion Design with Jingci Wang MFA Fashion Design

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Max Lu-holding silver leather coat-reminded us of Alexander McQueen...and it's his fav fashion designer-as it turns out. He also told us -wanted to express a luxury feeling..."ambiguous with unclear forms from a blurry dream...features 1950s cuts and special shapes..."

sequined fabric is stunning...
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Mehrzad Hemali MFA Fashion Design-was "blurring the lines of gender" and is a big admirer of  fashion great Martin  Margiela...collection made from cotton mostly-and silk charmeuse, duchess satin, and organza. LOVE!
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menswear inspired-women's wear-custom closures-designed to looking like piercings

had back buckle-custom created-stiffly crisp-make wearer stand up straighter!
Mehrzad Hemali

Livia Bianda BFA Menswear Design-inspired by uniforms+exaggerated football player silhouettes

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cool zip front short sleeve jacket with attached backpack...

Livia Bianda

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Runway Images all Getty Images courtesy of AAU