Words/images Judith Ecochard
There are several high end women's labels that encapsulate the mindset of the lead designer---who is often an appointee---tapped to update and re-interpret what the luxury collection is all about for today's consumers.
And those labels gets lots of press and major retail sales space...and then end up being marked down by the middle of the season...destined for off rack outlets.
And one reason for that is that...we feel--- editorial acclaim does not always translate into wearable clothes that are distinct and flatter the intended customer. IMHO---women will take a major chance on accessories---but when it comes to her wardrobe, by and large...she better feel confident, look better in the try-on clothes than what she walked into the store wearing ---and that the value is there.
And some heralded designers just miss that.
Not so Dorothee Schumacher---who is a German designer who we feel has and should have a wide appeal.
Dorothee Schumacher lives and breathes her lifestyle collection---that includes terrific apparel and accessories that are always a highlight of Berlin's Fashion Week...and a must see for us when the label ventures across the Pond for select retailers and media types.
Combining couture craftsmanship----(the details that we always try to get close-ups of)...with what we think of as actually a traditionally American vibe of sophisticated sportswear---that really comes down to travel chic, adaptable separates thst a woman can wear in all the different areas of her life...casual comfort, and dressy pieces- fused with feminine wearable shapes.
Modern wardrobe selections made from premium...often exclusive fabrics...(including luxe leather and patent)
---flattering cuts that are distinctly 21st century with ---in Fall 2011, hints of the "Classy 70s Chic Neo-Pop."
|Braided cable knit|
|scalloped detail elevates a blouse to a masterpiece|
(For us there's also the reminders of 60's Andre Courreges/Pierre Cardin masterpieces in some of the silhouettes and colors...in a modern take on a box pleat skirt).
At the far West Side preview...we learned about Schumacher's "preppy style goes modern" for the upcoming season...a blend of "Bianca Jagger, lingering around Murakami's exhibition in Versailles..."
|Nice flared skirt---kick box pleat reminds us of private school uniforms|
|Beaded crystal details|
Mrs. Jagger will always be immortalized wearing that spectacular white YSL pantsuit---and in this outing there were fabulous trousers, elegant with high waists (and the proper shoes to match-that elongate the legs)...
Lovely silk blouses...cashmere sweaters,
|scallop detail, chiffon silk trim---feminine|
---and we particularly loved some of the silky trenches and bomber /cropped style jackets with over sized collars.
|Quilted lining---so warm and reversible|
Chunky knits are classics as far as we are concerned.
A highlight was any item that came in that saturated Dazzling Orange---we felt had coral overtones...and is actually very flattering to wear on many skin tones.
A Vibrant Fushia, Ocean Blue, Noble Emerald, and and a Vibrant Turquoise---not blinding at all...rather refreshing. And a nice break from the neutrals!!!!!
In still images---the silhouettes might seem boxy but the fabrics have movement and are not stiff... providing just the right amount of structured shape.
The tied bow is a Schumacher signature---on plush patent and leather handbags, satchels...belts
Love the stacked platform heels---with fringe boho detail
And of course, some rain resistant boots, and gloves that match right up--- in those wonderful winter blues busting colors.
including--- Mitchells (Westport), Wilkes Bashford (San Francisco), and Marissa Collections (Naples, Florida).
Curious for us, Schumacher is also available in Barneys Tokyo---hopefully the buyers stateside will wise up soon.