Fall 2008-Fifth Avenue, New York City
Text, Images by J. Ecochard
The nasty lion that roared on March 25th for our press preview of Canali’s menswear and accessories- had us muttering about where the heck was global warming. But once we had our coats off and hands cupping hot cocoa in less than a New York minute, we were eager for the Grande tour.
So how great is this winter collection?
Well judging by the hordes of editors poring off the elevators, salivating over the elite goods staged in elegant showrooms -and THEN channeling Cinderella stepsisters-in ridiculous attempts (IMHO) to squeeze into sample sized samples (while the staff collectively held their breath that seams wouldn’t bust)…
WE’D SAY CANALI KNOCKED IT OUT OF THE BALLPARK- ITALIAN STYLE.
And once again, women were weeping over the limited production capabilities of the exclusive company owned factories that conjure up the Canali line…and can barely keep up with world –wide demands.
WHAT’S NEW:
COLORS:
LODEN GREEN-“THE NEW NEUTRAL” or basic natural hue to spice up wardrobes of largely beige, black, and browns.
GRAPHITE and FOG GRAYS: Spring’s “it” tone makes a handsome autumnal debut in masculine accessories, in a structured cashmere cardigan jacket, and in a sporty quilted vest.
COGNAC: A durable calf leather briefcase, dress shoes, and wallet are eye-catching in this new virile color “a cross between brown and Cordova.”
FABRICS:
Micro-Climate fabrics with water and wind proof attributes and a Memory Technology fabric that can be bunched up-and then whipped out of suitcases-and retains its original shape. Used extensively throughout the appropriately annointed “NEW BRIT” collection that should make traipsing across the Moors downright comfy.
Plush limited edition overcoats in luxurious cashmere/sable and cashmere/chinchilla weaves to retail for about $10,000- and already generating waiting lists. (See, boys have that too).
Midnight blue and black- cotton and silk patterned velvets with labor-intensive, hand-stitched abstract overlays, needle thin silver threads woven into a barely there deep black glen plaid for a fresh twist in evening tuxes, and handsome mocha brown floral or swirling paisleys floating amidst traditional menswear patterns in the dapper “BLACK DIAMOND” collections.
Hunter tweeds and gentlemanly Glen Plaids in muted beiges and grays with enough pizazz to pair with solids tones, subtle enough to mix and match with similarly palette patterns.
CUTS:
Updated eighties swagger blesses 2008 with sleek double-breasted, strong Rope shouldered, wide-stripped/pin stripped suits… and the return of the gently pleated waistband. A bit of Italian flash for less than corpulent types.
SPORTSWEAR URBANITY:
Hidden zipped pockets- like those found on all the technical gear we have for off-piste snowboarding. Pockets galore enabling easy access to stashes of stuff- making welcome appearances in stylish quilted bomber jackets and lightweight car coats- gussied up with warm removable linings and fur collars.
MIXED TEXTURES
: Navy pinstriped woolfabrics superbly mix with dark leather trimmed accessories for an edgy modern vibe to traditional briefcases. An expensive croc trimmed leather satchel and don’t even think of checking in overnighters in soft supple leathers latched with solid buckled hardware.
And black and brown leathers memorably uplift conservative two tone wingtips.
WHAT”S STILL GOING STRONG:
DETAILS, DETAILS, DETAILS:
Hand applied touches that distinguish this upscale brand, like dark leather edging used as jacket trims, hand-stitched
contrasting overlays on leather goods and jackets, fabric covered buttons, to die for six ply cashmere pullovers (in
Mediterranean Blood Red orange and marigold yellows, costly one piece skins for dapper, hand perforated wingtips, casually correct loafers with hand applied vegetable dye patinas, and dressy Derbys…with matching belts.PURPLE: The color of royalty is a signature Canali accent color…that perks up ties in a sexy diagnol slash, debonair dress shirts, and most effectively in a powerful pin-stipped ensemble for tycoons everywhere.
Available in July 2008 in top haberdasheries like Bergdorf’s, Neiman’s, Saks and eponymous shops all over the planet.
(For details, click on images)