THE KEVAN HALL RUNWAY SHOW: “The Urban Jet-Set”
Timestamp: Thursday, March 22, 2007, 8:30pm
Show rating: ++
By Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs courtesy of Kevan Hall
Perhaps Mr. Hall was inspired by our recent trip to France as members of the delegation who attended the Study Tour of French Design, Luxury Industries and Intellectual Property, organized by L’Ambassadeur, Jean-David Levitte and his superb staff. Fittingly, the pre-runway music was a voiceover by Captain Tod Hallman and First Purser Danielle Cooper
exhorting their passengers to fasten their seatbelts and put up their tray tables before takeoff.
Mr. Hall’s woman is a lady, and this season, she’s enamored of the glamorous forties. There was a tailored ruby herringbone transit suit, with sharp shoulders and loose elbow-length sleeves. Lana Marks accessorized the daywear with crocodile tote bags and briefcases. The structured pieces perfectly complemented the refined clothes. The navy and bronze polka dot v-front dress drew applause from the capacity crowd, its large waist-defining sash a welcome alternative to the usual wide leather belts we’ve been seeing everywhere else for fall. It’s a cinch to see why Mr. Hall was tapped to design the Halston line a few years ago. His white fur hoodie and white trousers is a great day to evening outfit that has that unmistakable Halston easiness which made the latter one of the first designer superstars.
It is in eveningwear though, that Mr. Hall has and continues to make a splash. He showed a dusty lavender gown with an intricate satin ribbon waist, which supports the most recent trend of toned-down eveningwear. It wasn’t hard to visualize some of these numbers hitting the Golden Globe ad Oscar Red Carpets. Who wouldn’t love his emerald ombre silk chiffon halter dress? The only ornamentation you need is the sequin straps on the dress. Pair it as Mr. Hall did with Wolford semi-opaque black hose and black patent heels, and you’ll be the belle of the ball. Hall can also work wonders with taffeta, his malachite one shoulder silk crepe gown with silk taffeta wing and his changante bronze and amber tie front gown demonstrate his prowess with tricky evening fabrics. Who ever thought that a taffeta ball gown could be modern and not in the least bit stuffy?
Long ago, the legendary Diana Vreeland told us to “think pink”. Mr. Hall must have had the iconic Mrs. V. on his mind, there were five bright pink gowns that made pink seems like a great new option for evening dressing.
Mr. Hall’s presentation would have been even better with more clearly defined vignettes. Michael Kors is an example of a fashion designer who consistently chooses a theme, and delivers strong vignettes within the show, always staying within the theme stated on the cover of his run of show. The result is a collection of memorable runway presentations such as "Palm Bitch" that fashionistas still refer to years later. Unfortunately, this vital editing skill, is often not taught at fashion institutions and designers are tasked with having to learn it on the job.
It’s clear that Mr. Hall is focused on building his brand; he’s moved beyond just wanting to put on a good show for his fans. *As California Apparel News recently reported, Mr. Hall is “in the process of signing and researching various licenses for accessories, jewelry, handbags, and shoes.” A licensed diffusion line is rumored to be in the works. We’re looking forward to see his continuing upward progression.
[* From an article by Erin Barajas, March 10-22 2007 edition, California Apparel News.]