Andrew Buckler
Timestamp: Saturday, February 3, 5pm
The Andrew Buckler “Close Encounters” runway show at Bryant Park
The verdict: ++
By Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs by J. Ecochard
The Andrew Buckler runway show: the first half
On his invitation, Mr. Buckler promised, “close encounters” [of the third kind?] He drew inspiration from “anatomical muscular illustrations whose medical influence inspires a cleaner refined look.” Fused with a sci-fi edge and you have one heck of a presentation that captivated us from start to finish. Sometimes fashion IS pure theatre, and Mr. Buckler set the stage well, while waiting for the show to start, the background music sounded like a satellite transmission, and the lights at the foot of the runway look like those of a flying saucer’s. All this made us feel as if we were on the set of “X-Files”.
Molly Jackson’s glass jewelry was extraordinary and contributed to the rock n roll meets cyber world vibe. We loved the glass gauntlets trimmed with red patent leather straps that worked well with the “Bladerunner” porcupine styled hair. The accessories and hairdos may have been futuristic, but the clothing collection was filled with beautiful, [mostly black] jackets well-dressed guys would want to wear in the here and now. Best was the skinny black suit [we miss you, Helmut!] a charcoal cashmere cardigan, and a multi-ply rose and gray cashmere sweater.
The half-time show: [NY Fashion Week is like the Superbowl of Fashion for American Designers] we were treated to a cabaret performance featuring a Liza Minelli [20 years ago] and a bevy of mail models who sauntered down the runway in Andrew Buckler signature underwear and “sexy bastard” argyle socks - only for those with self-confidence and a sense of humour.
The second half: The designer got serious and showed some great pieces like a black and white silkscreen leopard tee and women who “borrow” their boyfriend’s shredded black Patty Smith?? SP style sweaters won’t ever give them back.
Buckler also debuted his new “Winklepicker” shoe line. These utlra-pointy laceups based on the veddy proper English laceup. Available in sparkly gold, matte gold, camel/orange and cobalt.