Thursday, February 19, 2009
RAG & BONE: FALL/WINTER 2009
West 26th Street, NYC February 13th, 2009
FYI: There is a modus operandi during NY’s Fashion Week where many rsvp to every show/presentation…and then work out their schedules, depending. Hence empty seats for theoretically over-subscribed shows.
Rag & Bone is not one of those collections. Every one who scored an invite to this clothing house’s showing wants to see it. Hence if one was a tad late for the 5PM start, tough luck/love getting said assigned seat, spot on the media riser, let alone getting in.
Well, it was certainly worth the ‘drag and bone’ squeezing in because this outing by Marcus Wainwright and David Neville was terrific…we think… their best ever.
A quick military strut by fast paced models heralded one great layered, mostly gray or black ensemble after another for this “armor”---“samurai” inspired collection. For guys…the subtle volume above the knee (ninja style) was balanced by cinched below the knee and ankles silhouettes. So not Hammer time TG.
On top, tough but buttery smooth black leather jackets, a practical hooded city (car) length gray jacket guys can wear over suits over casual garb, long military coats with crested buttons, a handsome chunky knit… and a look we love, a waistcoat (vest) even made an appearance. The interplay of textures was smart. We also like the suits including an evening outfit-that were sewn in the best way possible---with British tailoring and what looked like luxe Italian wool fabrics.
Women could wield their own weapons with cutaway-fencing style jackets and black leather jackets with arresting zips, layered over warm chunky knits with leggings or mini pleated kilts (we love the solid black).
And a one shoulder LBD was spot on.
The collection will please the already faithful…and get major play in retail stores IMHO.
THE NAME: We learned from Wikipedia that the rag and bone man was a British traveling ‘junk’ peddlers in England…who circled the country bartering for, “old rags, (for converting into fabric and paper), bones for making glue, scrap iron and other items.”
Nothing junk about this outing.
MAKEUP: The female models, from the neck up…looked naturally (not) saccharine) sweet to us. Pink glowing cheeks, glossy “Mori Red” lips and a subtle, no mascara eye did the trick--- letting the good looks of the models shine through, not spackled over. Not a bit smoky black eyes that we have seen practically everywhere else, so refreshing---- though Revlon is introducing their Black Matte Collection…(the eye pencil is wonderfully durable, we tried it). Gucci Westman, now Global Artistic Director at Revlon crafted the looks…and she’s married to David Neville.
HAIR: Samurai style top knots.
INFO: RAG & BONE
Gucci Westman, Lake Bell
Words, Backstage Images, some Runway, JUDITH ECOCHARD
Menswear RTW Images From Men.Style.com Website
LBD Women's Image from YAHOO NEWS/ASSOCIATED PRESS