Wednesday, February 4, 2009
LORIS DIRAN: BOUTIQUE DEBUT-
DAPPER MEN’S AND CHIC WOMEN’S PRE-SPRING COLLECTIONS
Words, Images Judith Ecochard
For us that is. The last time Loris Diran was on our radar was at a fire hazard worthy, packed men’s collection outing at Nat Sherman in midtown Manhattan, several NY Fashion Week’s ago. A fab time…but we had a hard time seeing the clothes.
Well, the man as a DESIGNER has evolved. Frankly, we were a bit blown away (in a good way) by the level of craftsmanship, deft use of the finest fabrics (from the ne plus ultra Italian Dormeil Mills), and frankly, the practical nature of the perfectly cut collection that was on display today…and now for sale.
Diran is eminently quotable...so we opt for a stream of consciousness review. Some gems:
About the slim silhouette Men’s Collection….
“Everything emulates from the Mod, 60’s period…it make me feel great…a chic place without being clowny.”
“The clothes are more understated…the fit and fabric speaks for itself.”
“The pants ride low on the hip…the shirts have amazing cuff details…the palette is decidedly mute so men want to buy this black suit…look great and feel his safety net…and then buy unusual things.”
“People adore the black and white shirt…pre-washed for a broken in quality…and is skinny fitting--- to wear with suits or jeans, a tie and pointy boots or sneakers.”
“Men’s bodies are changing…they’re taller and the worked out, pumped up 80’s and 90’s thing is not fashionable…healthy without bulk is.”
“My jacket has a 28 inch center back that hits the hip right.” (Not weird shrunken jackets WHO WORE THOSE ANYWAY -us)
“My niche is men in their late 20’s to late 40’s.”
“I ask…how does this become chic?”
Best advice received= ”…just do what you’d wear.”
WE LOVE: The fabrics are sumptuous-like a handsome grey cashmere twill tailored into a dress up/dress down blazer. Our top pick for details is the black sports blazer, lined with striped cotton shirting. Amazing.
“The women’s RTW is elegant with an edge…elegance on the left side.”
“This is the pre-spring collection with heavier fabrics in a rich palette of black, burgundy and magenta.”
“Menswear inspired tailoring in cashmere wool…in a suit with a little flair…” (WE WANT!!!)
“The bubble skirt in silk cotton is the most ordered item.”
“Look at the way the fabric falls and drapes---it has to be something that stands up on its own, away from the body.”
“My women are like Noelle (the effortlessly stylish Director of Operations Noelle Kahan)…strong, feminine, smart, beautiful and understands the power of keeping physically fit…maintains her identity…the dress should never wear her.”
“Self aware but not self obsessed.”
WE LOVE: The petal/blossom like bodice-with subtle boning- atop a Mad Men worthy silhouette-in the Red Carpet knockout of a strapless cocktail dress. Hence the Nouveau Blossom moniker.
The feminine and professional pinstriped wool cashmere suit (Noelle wears the trousers) and a sleek black tuxedo ensemble are positively posh - modern classics.
We cannot wait for the Urban Armor themed Fall 2009 Collection.
DESIGNER INFO: We must have known Diran in our youth…teenager in New York, half French, into 1970’s glam (Ziggy, New York Dolls?). His high-end tastes and refined sensibilities were honed at legendary design houses- Claude Montana, Chanel and Versace. We love Jacqueline Love’s line when he was there too (2004-2005)…
CELEB CRED: Beyonce Knowles, Ricky Martin, Jonathan Rhys Meyer, Nicolette Sheridan.
LORIS DIRAN BOUTIQUE: 3 East 1st Street right off Bowery…a spacious light filled retail establishment inspired by mid-century Italian modernism. Ah…the hand crafted Venetian glass chandelier (Camer), backlit mirrors, and varied textures throughout---are wonderful examples of minimal chic with a dose of European warmth…inviting not sharp, sterile industrial.