Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage images, J. Ecochard
Runway images, J. Grossman courtesy of totallycool.net
DATE: Monday, January 21, 2008
THE PLACE: The Piers, the Northern Tip of the Forbidden Zone, 12th Avenue & 55th Street, NYC
BACKSTAGE: THE PRE-SHOW
We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating. Many times, the best show is the one that goes on backstage rather than on the catwalk. Where else can you see some of the world’s top male models clustered about, one of them with a beautiful tattoo [an homage to artist Salvatore Dali that took over a year to complete]?
Another plus – the opportunity to talk to the fashion designer and find out what was actually on their mind when they designed the collection.
Buckler Backgrounder:
Every season, Mr. Buckler comes-up with a compelling inspiration; we love the line sheets he and People’s Revolution Public Relations work up and put on the seats. Note to everyone else doing a show – it makes things easier for the audience.
For Resort/Spring 2008, Mr. Buckler drew inspiration is drawn from Bond meets Monty Python, “a Brit Loyalist edge; an obscure mix of Sean Connery`s 60’s Bond character eyeing Ursula Andrews’ Bond Girl. “
What that meant: Bond-esque slim evening suites, detective raincoats, swim trunks and Sixties sharpness blended with the Eighties acid colors.
PRE-SHOW - BACKSTAGE AT THE FALL 2008 COLLECTION:
Designer Andrew Buckler backstage answered a few leading questions while making some final adjustments.
LYRA MAG: What’s the inspiration for fall?
ANDREW BUCKLER: Fantasy meets surrealism, think of Shakespeare’s a Midsummer’s Night Dream. Surrealism is everywhere, in film [Lord of the Rings] in art [the works of Salvatore Dali], and in the cities I visit.
LYRA: Why did you show at ENK a week before NY Fashion Week?
A. Buckler: It was quite an easy decision. IMG doing the shows here is quite a pioneering move, but we’re holding hands with ENK, IMG and all our buyers. Sales are important, and our buyers are in town for the ENK Collective so they can see the show, it’s convenient for them.
Show stylist GINO TAVERNARO, who could pass for a member of a rock band, has an impressive resume, which includes 9 years as a Neiman Marcus buyer.
“What ‘s most notable, says Mr. Tavernano, is the energy in details such as the jewelry by Molly Jackson” [whom he met at a party outside Boston.]
Mr. Tavernano is an excellent stylist, who has the knack of finding wonderful resources, which include Molly Jackson whose pieces are made of pulled Pyrex glass.
BEAUTY NOTES: It’s not often there’s this much to say about the hair and makeup at a men’s show.
Lead hair, John Warren from the Rizzieri Salon led the RUSK Artistic Team in a Dali-esque inspired hair fantasy. One model had hair pieces attached to his head and resembled a 9 point Buck, another’s hair looked like a Viking’s helmet, On exiting, we saw a few others with peacock feathers attached to the napes of their necks.
Makeup artist, Mark Edio and The Smashbox Cosmetics Team did their part in contributing to the fantasy. Models sported super smudgy charcoal eye shadow that screamed, “Don’t mess with ME”. Others had painted on executioners’ eye masks. The effect was disturbingly sinister.
THE BUCKLER RUNWAY SHOW:
Model, Ger Duany, kicked things off in a “Model 400 Black Storm Trooper” [coat]. Add to that, a sumptuous black fur hat with earflaps, and you’ve got a great opening look.
Exit #7, a long charcoal jacket, vest, and pleated corduroys gave off a very proper English “Members Only” vibe.
The Buckler man, can also look very East End, in a wine “nuts & bolts” moto jacket or very Sixties Carnaby Street while wearing Exit #34, a black velvet cropper jacket and matching pants.
AWARD FOR MOST UNUSUAL ITEM ON THE RUNWAY:
Rotenier’s brass chain hula skirts secured with a thick hip slung leather belt, and the long brass chains secured to thick leather bracelets.
Although the collection’s theme is “fantasy”, it’s filled with some very wearable and reasonably priced items such as the gorgeous hand knit espresso “smock sweater”[$180 wholesale]and thick enough to double as outerwear. It’s” doing very well”, according to Buckler’s, VP of sales & merchandising, Marina Leichuk.
www.andrewbuckler.com