NEIMAN MARCUS FALL 2007 ACCESSORIES PREVIEW: OBJECTS TO COVET
Text by Vivian G. Kelly, with contributions by J. Ecochard
Photographs by J. Ecochard, Richard Spiegel
TIMESTAMP: Tuesday, May 8, 2007
WHAT: NEIMAN’S BI-ANNUAL ACCESSORIES PREVIEW
THE PLACE: MIDTOWN MANHATTAN IN THE QUIETLY LUXURIOUS CHAMBERS HOTEL
LED BY: KENNETH J. DOWNING, Senior Vice President, Fashion Director for Neiman Marcus. As his title implies, Ken sets the direction for the store after attending countless fashion shows around the world every season. We love him [and Neiman’s Accessory Director, SANDRA WILSON who was also on hand] for their eagle eyes in identifying and translating the season’s trends in a wearable way. Ken and Sandra and the rest of the Neiman Fashion and Buying Team are merchants who appreciate the art form of fine design, a rare quality in a retailer.
The pieces on display in the penthouse represented the best of the latest trends as they’re all exciting, wearable and have that bit of edge that make them objects to covet. Ken gave us his take on the season before walking us through the spacious suite that was more tightly edited than past seasons, making it easier to view the key trend pieces.
Of special interest were some surprising new color directions.
Below, Ken’s view on what you need to know for Fall 2007 to make your buying decisions once the merch starts rolling into the stores.
KEN ON FALL 07: “It is about the return to the modern polished woman. It was the most important message, which is the new cool.
The message is HOW to dress up, and that begins with the jacket: there is the man-tailored Spencer type shape, the short A-line jacket, and so many more shapes to consider. What’s even better is to wear the jacket with a matched bottom. Also of note is the sleeve: 3/4 bracelets, and the glove.
In fact, the glove is now A NECESSITY: over the elbow, especially in brown, black, metallic.”
SOURCES OF INSPIRATION FOR FALL: Nostalgic references such as the Paul Poiret exhibit at the met that just opened, Art Deco, Nan Kempner, and some slimmer 30’s references at Gucci.
BELOW, WE HIGHLIGHT THE TRENDS BEGINNING WITH COLOR, AND ENDING WITH TEXTURE, AND SHAPE.
THE NEW COLOR DIRECTIONS
MOST IMPORTANT COLOR OF THE SEASON: GRAY: from pearl to deep gray which almost looks like black.
NEWEST WAY TO WEAR IT: metallic + grays together
TO TRY: Gold framed necklaces with gray hematite.
THE SURPRISE COLORS ON THE RUNWAY:
VIBRANT GREEN Starting with John Galliano at the Couture
HOT PINK seen months later in New York at Diane Von Furstenberg by way of a hot pink Think of it as the season’s punch color.
HOW TO WEAR COLOR: Have fun with it! Pull out all the crayola colors in the crayon box and wear them all together.
If you who can’t step-away from your black palette, don’t worry, black is a constant. This season, consider some items in black patent to update your look.
A SHIFT IN SHAPE
MORE STRUCTURE – most important is the polished structured jackets.
Shoe wise, we’re finally moving away from the platform, good news for models and civilians alike. Its shape had evolved into something that was so wildly exaggerated and difficult to walk in that even professional runway models were struggling.
The bootie with an upturned toe is the shoe to have. It’s like a pump that morphed itself into a boot.
The pump is back whether it’s round toed, or thin and elongated with a pointed toe as seen at Chanel couture. Pair it with shiny lacquered Wolford tights as Karl Lagerfeld did for his show. According to Ken, the only designers who didn’t show tights on the runway were Stella McCartney and Dolce & Gabbana, resulting in “a bare leg that looked rather jarring.”
EXOTIC SKINS: Go with the idea of the return to polish. It could be python, mock crock, crock embossed on patent leather, or fur sheared to look like crocodile.
OMBRE [think of watercolor dissipating from dark to light] will be a story going forward and already appeared by way of ombre minks at Alberta Ferreti.
TRIM: unexpectedly, there was sequin for day.
JEWELRY : Ken and Sandra love cuffs and bracelets. Frida Giannini at Gucci sent-out her models with over the elbow gloves and bracelets worn over them, fabulous!
BELTS BACK OFF: They’re thinner in line with fall’s more refined silhouette
THE BEST FOR LAST Taking luxury to a new reference.
We fell madly, deeply in love with THE BALENCIAGA SPORTY ANKLE STAP STILETTO. IS IT A SKI BOOT? IS IT A SURFER SHOE? WE’RE NOT SURE, BUT IT DESERVES THE OFTEN MISUSED LABEL OF “ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS”.
Price: $4,175, by special order
Fall 2007 merchandise will begin arriving at Neiman’s late June.
Merchandise available at Neiman Marcus.com