UPSCALE WATCHES WORTHY OF AWE.
Text by J. Ecochard
The time-obsessed may be kissing cousins to the OCD afflicted. And as fanatics, we confess; complex wristwatches are the embodiments of heavenly perfection.
The hundreds of mechanisms behind the motions are beyond comprehension-so to even partially grasp the physics of watches- separate from stylish accessories- helps one to understand the four- five –six figure price tags. Just get a look at the innards under a microscope… there are often 735 (gasp!) distinct, smoothly functioning parts per timepiece –as in the ultra horologist BLANCPAIN’s now famed “1735” model- that rivals a sleek Formula Race car-and arguably requires more precise artistry than all of the hand laborious steps engineering wait-listed (yawn) “it” bags.
So it’s no surprise to us that über merchandiser Tiffany has turned over the reins of their watch-making duties to the Swatch Group. Hhhmmm…yes they are the ones spawning the hip, affordable Swatch watches. But this Swiss incorporated entity now owns the ne plus ultra of horological companies…with storied pasts and manufacturing expertise.
For New York visitors and residents…the BLANCPAIN, haute boutique on a chi-chi Madison Avenue may be the initial and only Big Apple palace of luxe to beckon. The brand’s tradition of complex, innovative timepieces hark back to the rural Jura Mountains village of Villeret where master watchmaker Jehan-Jacques Blancpain set up the company’s first shop in a farmhouse (1735). Since then, every watch slavishly pays homage to this Frenchman’s genius including the critical accomplishments of the smallest self-winding chronograph, and the complicated Self- Winding Tourbillon Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph timepieces.
As scuba enthusiasts, we crave the practical advancements of the BLANCPAIN’s Fifty Fathoms collection. Now available in extremely limited editions (what else?) we marvel at the watch’s watertight operational abilities to depths of 300 meters courtesy of special seals (most ‘stop’ at 100 meters), and the new black sapphire scratchproof bezel featuring easy to read, fresh luminescent coatings applied to the markings. Choices in the line include:
- A modern update of the original Automatic model (1952) with all-new mechanical movements in steel or red gold…
- A Flyback Chronograph with functioning special joints easily pushed above or below the seawaters…
-A magnificent Flying Tourbillon version in steel or gold with a new instant restart timing function to keep track of under water outings.
All the Fifty Fathoms are strapped with rugged water-resistant bands of rubber-lined black canvas that we feel appearance-wise - could carry one from a nautical outing to a black-tie soirée.
New to us, Glahütte Original is an elite brand making inroads in the American luxury watch market. Its collection of hand crafted masterpieces are delicately finished by the company’s own skilled watchmakers from hundreds of components preciously born in proprietary factories…and then rigorously ‘road-tested’ for rate precision, water resistance, shock resistance etc.
The company’s new collections pay homage to the rich traditional mechanical watch-making knowledge of founders Ferdinand Adolph Lange and Gustave Bernhard Gutkaes who meticulously produced the first pieces in the small German village of Glahütte (1845). The tradition of refined excellence continues with the stunning complex mechanisms of the Senator Rattrapante. A highlight of the fine art of horology, the watch features a manually wound movement caliber 99, outfitted with split-seconds mechanism (coined after the French word “rattraper”) handsomely fashioned with a classically designed dial in limited edition platinum.
Like many women, we prefer the heft of men’s watches but have to admit that Glahütte Original’s Star Collection got our approving nod… especially the technologically innovative manually winding movement caliber 65-01 muscling the feminine diamond case of the PrettyButterfly 18k white gold piece.
Technological advancements and masculine styles effortlessly come together in the Grande Seconde Hommage Genéve 1784 collection by the ultra- exclusive Jaquet Droz Swiss Manufacture of Haute Horologerie. Inspired by a quote from the dashing Louis Aragon, in Le Fou d’Elsa: “I have reinvented the past to see the beauty of the future…” these one-of-a-kind creations are equipped with Jaquet Droz Caliber 2663-4, a self-winding double-barrel movement with 72 hour power reserve, off-centered hours and minutes, and a large seconds subdial. Further adding to each time masterpiece’s allure is the superlative hand-finishing of the “secret signature” clover leaf engraving- with an oscillating weight in 22-carat white gold in a sunray decorative pattern- visible through a unique glareproofed sapphire case-back.
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Just in case one needs a reminder of the sheer grandeur of the variations of this collection! No wonder these unique items would make the company’s uncompromising visionary founders, Pierre and Henry-Louis Jaquet Droz, smile. These treasures only grace the wrists of confident connoisseurs.
Breguet watches have been favored treasures since it’s launch of the world’s first self-winding watch, known as perpétuelles, with an oscillating weight and two-going barrels (1780). Now, the brand is rapidly opening elegant boutiques worldwide- to better display the fruits of technological labors. One major breakthrough in design is the highly efficient self-winding caliber 777 of the 5177 timepiece that won the Public’s Prize at Geneva’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie. More watch wizardry is with the Tradition 7047 watch featuring a patent protected spectacular tourbillon mechanism coupled with an innovative fusee-and-chain transmission to optimize watch-rate regularity.
Admittedly, learning all the bells and whistles of horology is as daunting as our college Physics classes. Nevertheless we appreciate and share Galileo’s passion with recording time and are in awe of the intricacies and flawless finishes of these imaginative timepieces.
Images courtesy of BlancPain, Glashütte, Jaquet Droz,Breguet