Makeup Mist: Must Not Muss-by J. Ecochard
Photograph courtesy of www.bridalgal.com
Resembling architectural foundations, makeup foundations need to flawlessly support: a crumble here, a crack there- results in collapsible ruins. Factor in hot, humid weather and/ or weeping brides…and there is only one solution: airbrush makeup.
Andre Chreky Salon in Washington DC (202 293-9393) has two makeup artists offering the service; specifically applying water (or silicone) based foundation that’s finely ‘misted’ on the face in custom blended skin tones- akin to less pressurized commercial airbrushing. Drying immediately, the colored liquids smooth out uneven skin tones, cover up facial scars without the chalky mask of makeup concealers- and allow for subtle contouring (cheekbones anyone?). Combined with soft or dramatic sprays for eyes and/or brows- one would need only to refresh lipstick “…because airbrush makeup looks just as fresh at the end of the evening as it did in the beginning of evening,” according to the salon spokeswoman, Paula Cassidy, and “it is the way to go if you want to look picture perfect.”
Andre Chreky’s senior makeup artist/stylist, Rodney Pinion, learned airbrush techniques in Hollywood-where face and body makeup has to rigorously survive the camera’s glare of long movie shoots. In Washington DC “a classic, conservative look is the most requested …with a bit of glam added for Big Nights.” Mr. Pinion’s modus operandi is to tone the skin and request eyes and facial expressions frozen (to avoid unsightly creases). Then he wields a small black laser –ish airbrush compressor instrument that deposits a fine flesh toned liquid mist in micro-drops that dries in seconds (and is rub off proof!). Next, he brushes on (temporary) white powder half moon shapes under both eyes to capture stray eye makeup powders, sprays brows and eyes with more liquids in various hues, (improved with careful brush strokes of powder eye shadows)…and finishes with a dab of single false eyelashes prior to a mascara application. Brushing away the white powder, a pat of moisturizing spray under eyes “to create a barrier… that keeps the area looking dewy” is added, polished off with a neutral lip pencil and gloss… bringing the entire application process to a mere thirty minutes. And the maquillage will last for up to 12 hours.
In NYC, Lilly Rivera expertly wields an airbrush compressor at the results oriented, De Paola Lowrance Anti-Aging Clinical Skin Care Center ( 212 755-1155). Having worked as a makeup artist on location for television, film and fashion shoots (on such luminous model/ socialites as Amanda Hearst and Lauren Bush), Lilly’s acutely aware of how bad lighting’s dastardly effects can corrupt one’s look. In fact, the Kett airbrush compressor pump and formulations that she uses …was launched in 2003 by a “co-worker from our MAC days (Sheila McKenna) who started her own compressor line and formulations with her television producer brother”…to satisfy the demands of High Definition television.
For Lilly, doing the eyes first- “in the old fashioned way…because I work in layers” allows her to “add dimension” for chiaroscuro panache. She then gently curls lashes with the brilliant Blinc heated lash curler, speedily attaches a full set of single fake lashes to the upper lids (basic training from time pressured live television) and literally uses a mascara-ed laden paint brush for “feathery” not “horrible spidery” lower lashes. Afterwards, Lilly artistically employs the ‘magic wand’ explaining how her sideline Bridalgal business (212 759-7226) is in great demand by both brides and grooms- the latter wishing to banish five o’clock shadows on their photo filled Big Day. Luckily, “one pass is good enough for uneven skin tones or color correction,” using a water based foundation…although for body scars and tattoos- an alcohol based liquid covers best.
And the results would please any actress requesting a Mr. DeMille close-up.
INFO:
Andre Cherky, BridalGal, Blinc, Kett Cosmetics, De Paola Lowrance Anti-Aging Skin Care Center
Posted and edited by J. Ecochard