THE UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE OF A LUXURY BRAND-WITH A FRESH MODERN APPROACH
Review and Images by J. Ecochard
Admittedly, our tactile exposure to Rena Lange, a 50+ year old, high-end women’s line from Germany, has been limited to our mother’s white collar, black jersey wool dress (being re-issued) …that she got last century, and never stopped wearing.
Until now because we are so going to raid her closet and grab it!
THE BACKSTORY
Rena Lange, the person- never existed. However, a Munich dweller, Martha Lange opened a lingerie boutique in 1916 with financial help from an ex-lover. Sadly the store closed in physical ruins (World War II), but a nephew, Peter Gunthert re-started the label (1953) as a ready to wear collection. In 1963, his bride, Renate signed on as a designer as well. In 1990, the Lange name was officially preceded by Rena-in her honor.
What began, as a love lost retail story became a worldly gain for fashionable clientele and the sophisticated city of Milan where the seasonal collections are held.
We New Yorkers are now officially runway envious!
THE COLLECTION
We previewed the collection with the very charming, pretty, and amazingly talented head designer, Frauke Gembalies. A native of Germany, the fashion veteran previously toiled for luxe houses Lowe and Chloe.
Gembalies’ inspiration for the classical brand was to respect Rena Lange’s traditional background, the “tailored proportions and make it modern…” and to design “season-less components and trendy items.” With a nod to muses such as the impossibly chic Ingmar Bergman, the artist Sonia Delauny (acclaimed for her strong colors and geometric abstractions)…and modern day “intellectual” beauties such as Cate Blanchett, the garments often reference 30’s and 40’s elements.
…As in the wide leg trousers in cognac and yava (German for a “not so dark brown”), subtle striped imprints, and a wonderfully vibrant jacquard coat.
Naturally for autumn a charcoal black trench coat is offered…but Lange’s silk nylon version is punched up with striking horn buttons and a striped white/black menswear-like lining.
OTHER WINNERS
There are intricate sequin details in a glamorous silk jersey sleeveless dress and interesting ruffled sleeves in both a yummy chocolate brown cashmere sweater and in a mustard color on an otherwise simply timeless black dress.
Other au courant separates include:
- A tweedy silk wool blouson pullover in natural colors.
- The signature white collar adorning a gray sweater paired with a pleated black wool skirt.
- A flirty navy wool cropped swingy pea coat with knitted navy cashmere embellishments on the sleeves (a favorite of the designer).
- A cozy black wool coat made special with a creamy caramel leather belt.
For more formal evenings there is a Vionnet/Grés worthy, fluid black silk jersey gown with couture-like internal construction to insure a flawless fit. And one of our favorite colors, emerald green made a dramatic appearance in a silk chiffon gown destined for a red-carpet gala.
Of special note is the complicated seam fabrications of practically every garment we saw- a sure sign of well trained/schooled deluxe fashion houses.
ACCESSORIES
Now in its third season, Rena Lange’s handbags, satchels, evening clutches and upscale belts all feature the signature open weave flower trademark in metal hardware and/or tortoise shell details.
The construction of the made-in-Italy carryalls is impeccable…with adjustable straps, enough inner pockets for iPods galore, and ‘never fails’ magnetic enclosures.
Our favorites are the plush ruched leather samples in aqua and honey… and the wonderfully opulent python trimmed “grandma” shaped oversized handbag in pure black pony leather skin. Calf leather satchels in match everything neutrals and burgundy effortlessly round out the collection.
RETAIL
The pre-fall line will be available in posh shops (the flagship store in Munich, eponymous boutiques in New York, Tokyo, Beirut, London, Berlin, Zurich, Frankfurt, Milan etc. and over 350 international outlets including Neiman Marcus) in May. The Fall 2008 pieces ship in late June.