Men’s and Women’s Shoes and Accessories Fall 2008-March 20th, Park Avenue NYC
Text and Images by J. Ecochard
“Re-worked classics” is a clichéd bon mot-as young creatives assume the banner of older one named establishments-and dip into archival pools for inspiration.
Fratteli Rossetti, an Italian family-owned and operated (50+ years) design/production purveyor of luxury goods-also references its past. But unlike wet behind the ears designers, the Fratelli Rosetti’s delectably gorgeous shoes and accessories pay homage to its deep historic collaborations with the finest designers (Giorgio Armani for example) … and continue to be manufactured...as in 150 hours and counting per pair with critical steps executed on obsolete machinery... by master cobblers in the same Parabiago factory.
Such European, hand worked, time consuming processes mixed with the latest technological advances… and trends- are hallmarks of this Italian line’s artisan selections. And the company has never digressed into producing licensed goods.
These unseen attributes are what discerning clients appreciate and expect…and are increasingly tough to find in an outsourced world driven by private equity fat cats and shareholders.
THE COLLECTION:
Fall 2008 offerings, previewed last week- were exceptional, with elegant formal, comfortable athletic, and hip weather-hardy shoes and boots that are stylish.
THE MEN:
Highlights that elicited “bravi” by curious employees of the Italian Consulate (and us) include:
- Blood brown leather slip ons with two side buckles and oxfords with hand etched leather edging that add textural depth and polished edginess.
- Shiny black croc moccasins and croc tie shoes masterfully crafted with one rare skin - expertly breaking ‘just-so’ across the tops.
- Deep caramel, slim silhouetted loafers and wing tips- “signature Fratelli Rossetti examples”- with hand applied perforation details that wonderfully accent the sumptuous depth that results from many hand applications of vegetable dyes and old-fashioned shoe creams- producing a graduated palette akin to an Impressionist masterpiece… and an exceptional patina and softness that silicone and other synthetic chemicals can never hope to achieve.
- Smart light brown suede ankle boots with eye-catching capped dark brown-sanded leather toes, and sinewy black leather oxfords with two-tone alligator inserts.
- Street-wear, all day boots and shoes featuring breathable vegetable leather insoles, shaped for all day support…plus… incised thick rubber soles specially designed to grip and cushion, and repel muddy gunk from embedding in the treads.
- Handsome smoky grey suede and a charcoal black, leather cover heeled loafers- any wearer will feel deftly compliments either his laid-back daywear or more formal attire.
- Several athletically propelled Rosetti One sport selections including rugged washed leather dark brown boots and au courant suede urban sneakers in autumnal shades.
THE WOMEN:
Once again, refined chic with nods to in vogue ballet slippers, patent leather, menswear, and sparkling evening glam are the hallmarks of a collection that notably lacks any superfluous use of metal hardware. Some highpoints for us:
- Beautiful flats and classic loafers punched up in both patent leather (black, bright red) and black pony skin with black patent leather trim.
- -Glorious oxfords made of shimmery metallic, snake patterned fabric in burnished copper or bronze.
- Waterproof black patent leather wedges and boots with contrasting solid white rubber heels that'll have women tossing their dowdy wellies in the bin.
- Men’s inspired lace up oxfords in bright patent leathers on dark stacked heels or the new metal/wood heel.
- Several winter weather ready knee boots packing urban panache courtesy of warm rabbit trim, cozy shearling lining, or modish patent leather materials with gathered quilted accents or cleverly reworked into a lower ballet profile.
- Sensuous suede ankle and knee boots- including a rich dove grey pair with gently gathered ankle closures, and creamy mustard beige ankle and hunter green knee high knock-outs, both perched atop a dark brown heels with thin cross strap details.
- Vintage-like open peep toe pumps with center diamante tee straps.
- Up-market buttery napa leather sacs, shiny patent leather totes with key gold link chains, an espresso brown leather satchel with deep brown suede trim and tasteful gold studs, and a bold gold metal handled handbag in moss green suede with sexy reptile trim-to coordinate with the footwear collection.
SHOWSTOPPERS:
Fratelli Rossetti conquers the camera ready, custom-made Red Carpet competitors with sparkling rhinestone studded, lavish feathered silk evening shoes and matching clutches- all fit for royalty. Other dazzling high heel evening slip ons are embedded with tiny Swarovski crystals that have been doubly sewn by hand (not glued).
And the imaginative dark black and emerald green silk oxfords with exotic crystal paisley flourishes are devilishly debonair.
BRAVO, BRAVA, BRAVI – WOW!
(Available August 2008 at Fratelli Rossetti stores worldwide)