THE IMASU BY KELLY NISHIMOTO SHOW
THE TENTS/4:40PM
Text, Vivian G. Kelly with contributions by Laura C. Wood
In the press release we were promised old style Hollywood, glamour, ribbons, ruffles and fun. In her first collection, “in the movies” she delivered on her promise.
There were tighter than tight pencil skirts with ruffles on the bottom, a long tiered gown in a gray raspberry print and a tube dresses with ruffles on the bodice. Best was the asymmetric 80s style coatdress in mauve wool.
The fun came via the pink panther coming out to take a bow with Ms. Nishimoto who was dressed in a simple black tee and trousers, unlike anything in her 3 collections.
The rest of the show consisted primarily of 20s flapper dresses in raspberry sequins accessorized with raspberry hose and towering metallic mauve peep toe high heels. The best was actually the least complicated – a Halston –like white paillette tank and wide legged palazzo pants. Ms. Nishimoto would have been better served steering clear of the heavy looking velvet pieces that looked less than flattering cut into wide legged pants and tiered flamenco dancer skirts.
The long blue jersey dress with peacock feathers on the bodice may have looked good on the drawing board, but on the runway it looked more like what one would imagine a medieval fantasy should be wearing. Elegant wearable looks such as the tank/pant exit and the coatdress showed what Ms. Nishimoto is capable of. We hope to see more looks like this from her next time.
www.kellynishimoto.com
ORTHODOX – the men’s Fall 2008 Collection and to the women’s collection debut
BACKSTAGE we got a few words preshow with designer, Eric Niccoli, a Southern California native. He’s experimenting with a few basics in organic cotton, which should be available in the next few collections. Well-executed basics, especially if they’re organic are always welcome. We look forward to seeing the tees when they come out.
Most important this season says Mr. Niccoli: “”To seamlessly wed casual and elegant”. By the looks of the A-line gray ombre coat and the black and white graffiti print dress, inspired by eighties’ artist, Franz Klein, he’s right on track.
THE SHOW: Vogue’s Andre Leon Talley was sitting in the front row and it turns, out, he he’s in town for 2 days covering the LA shows. Does this mean that LA is being taken more seriously and picking up more steam? Maybe we’ll see some newer LA designers in Andre’s next column, “Life with Andre”.
THE RUNWAY SHOW
THE VIBE: eighties - leather gloves, big decorative zippers and very processed looking hair. We liked the jersey cardigan jackets and pleat front trouser accessorized with a skinny snakeskin Jack Rabbit Belt – one of our favorite LA resources. Best was the purple off the shoulder sweater with a lambskin black leather corset belt, also by Jack Rabbitt. A men’s black cotton sweater with pleats on the shoulder and metal loops on the front fit right in with the 80s vibe.
Mr. Niccoli is new to the women’s wear arena, but he already knows enough to save the best for last. Accordingly, he closed with his strongest piece – the gray ombre coat for her and a matching double breasted jacket for him.
www.orthodoxclothing.com
7:30pm The JULIA CLANCEY SHOW
BACKSTAGE, key hair stylist for L’Oreal Professional, Sean James sprayed-away at the imaginative do – Forties diva crossed with Sean Young in “Blade Runner”. To keep a do this complicated in place, he used L’Oreal’s Infinium Spray. This lightweight spray is among Sean’s favorite hair products.
The vibe – “eclectic English pop tart”
PR Maven Kelly Cutrone gave the audience a 411 of the not so subtle message Ms. Clancey had for the US Customs Office– VIA a sandwich board sign [one side said, "HAUTE HATERS", the other asked, “IS THIS CUSTOMARY?”] strapped onto a leggy model who smirked down the runway to loud cheers from the audience that we could hear even over the deafening punk rock music.
EXPLANATION: Ms. Clancey had the misfortune of having most of her collection seized by the US Customs office. Fortunately for us, the matter got straightened out in time.
Best were the satin batwing blouses with pussycat bows in purple and black which looked great with ultra short mini skirts in satin and white patent leather.
Best was the silver one worn with a head-turning faux fur coat with a metallic lining.
If you’re looking for adult club wear, there’s plenty to choose from be it a red pleated lame mini or a sexy black jersey gown with a black jet bead breastplate. Our favorite was the black satin batwing mini dress worn with a gold belt.
Miss Clancey undaunted from her run in with customs came out in a shortie silver lame and sequin dress to a rousing round of applause.
8pm THE WHITLEY KROS SHOW
Smashbox Co-lead, the effervescent Hank Hoffman gave us the 411 on the towering hair we glimpsed as the models rushed off to rehearsal.
“It’s Melanie Griffith in Working Girl travels through Berlin and Paris, listening to Nirvana. This is my favorite collection from these designers so far.” The girls aren’t strangers to the realm of celebrity-dom. [Designer Marisa Ribisi’s brother is the actor Giovanni Ribisi who performed brilliantly in “The Gift”. She’s also married to Beck, who was in charge of the show’s music] The Melanie Griffith inspiration was referenced via the voluminous frizzy hair, red lips, and the eighties mega hit “Lady In Red”.
Celebrity tie ins or not, the tent was completely full and the photo pit brimming over.
We loved the super sized beads strung on cord necklaces that matched the coral and teal pieces, like a demure batwing blouse and high waist black pencil skirt we remember wearing in the eighties. This whole group was a winner, from the ruffled bustier and skirt to the simple long dress worn with black suede thong sandals.
The oversize fedoras added a sophisticated touch as did a silk orange and brown batwing dress, a sharp contrast to a pair of black wool tights and military jacket worn with nothing else. Best was the wool jersey off the shoulder black parachute jumpsuit, perfect for lounging or going out at night. Also great was the black wool crepe tuxedo suit cut in a looser silhouette and the sleeves pushed up, for that bit of edge.
www.whitleykros.com