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The MakeUP in NY/Indie Beauty Show Trends Pt 3



The annual late summer trade show-MakeUp in NY-was more crowded than in past years-with the ease of launching indie brands -getting even easier since we've been covering this...and other supplier trade events for the past decade+.

WHAT: A nice format-of private labs with custom options, biz consultants, packaging and marketing services geared towards individuals ready to carve out their place in the DTC world---all under one roof-with USA, European and S. Korean brands- knowledgeable in the particular cosmetic and labeling requirements on a global basis.

We felt that one's natural skin-only better still ruled at the show geared towards American customers-with the concept of 'just the right amount' aka 'not too much' 'perfect simple' =mantra. For Schwan Cosmetics, these Swedish concepts of  HYGGE and LAGOM -ties into WELLNESS- for their 2019/20 theme-including a new palette packed shimmery mineral-y eye shadows, and matte  muted autumnal colors (a format that's different than their signature pencils).

A new SCHWAN lip product-goes on creamy-shiny and changes texture to a velvet-y powder-that isn't drying to the touch. (Some cosmetics lines have this kind of lip coloring on the market, already).
powder finish is a 'thing' 
Brows are still a focal point-with more subtle enhancements via a highlighter-vs the wormy distinct fake look.
At Indie Beauty Show-Vegan, 'clean' cruelty free brand Clove Hallow - deeply pigmented -layerable foundations/powders/glow-y highlighters/creamy lips/shadows.
Observation- some Middle Eastern living women wear/prefer REALLY mask like heavy makeup...that is very noticeable.  SCHWAN cosmetics-  informed us HALAL requirements vary by country-different in Indonesia vs Saudi Arabia, as an example...but many women living there-opt for vegan cosmetics, accordingly, interesting.

Cleaner ingredient lists-and sustainably sourced ingredients (excluding fragrance, NO mineral mica-which is sourced via child labor-and the avoidance of parabens and microplastics) + recycled/recylable packaging are of utmost important -if not for consumers-then for how retailers (Beautycounter, Sephora, Target even Walmart now) are positioning themselves-stocking their shelves. Our chat with Faber-Castell highlighted this...and underscored the importance of a marketplace 'woke' to a planet decimated by climate change. Their makeup offerings adhere to EU requirements (loads stricter than the non-existent USA ones)...and 'blacklisted' ingredients.


'green' (er) packaging

At Cosmax-a South Korean based multi-national company-their skin enhancing technology-high pigment jelly- is a popular texture in makeup-for the face- packed with hydration-for multi-tasking foundation/bronzers/eye products. Face masks-that heat up-are also (still) popular.
We liked how at the show-several masks came in one recycle plastic jar vs excess packaged -land fill clogging single use packets.
Pharmacos-jelly glitter highlighter flexible -transparent -pearly film

Show winner-the French brand ALKOS Group REALLY even more impressed us with their GREENOVATION cellulose pencils made from 'leftover' wood pulp-biodegradable too-and are just as high quality as newly cut- forest destroying wood kind.



ALKOS award winning matte black eyeliner


facial drops-CSR Cosmetics Solutions

At Indie Beauty Show-LIMESE-a S. Korean brand-delivers skin help via ampules (drops) targeting 'moods' by ' skincare = fun' millennial-Gen Z brand Limese