Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Photographs, J. Ecochard
The place: The Piers, West 55th Street, NYC
Timestamp: the afternoon of Monday, August 6, 2007
Some top trends for spring 2008:
BAGS: are still large, there are structured and softer, rounder styles to choose from
SHOES: flats show their staying power, the more ornamented, the better
JEWELRY: Innovation is key, details such as studs add interest, and resin win the popularity contest
Being the die-hard show enthusiasts that we are, we have long believed that runway shows are great fun and make for a great photo op But, if you’re truly interested in previewing collections before they hit the runways or the retail floor, then the trade shows are the place to be. Accordingly, we’re huge trade show fans. August may be a slow month in New York City, but in the fashion and accessories trade show world, it’s a key month. This is when the ENK Accessories Circuit, one of the highest regarded shows in the USA takes place.
We zoomed around the seemingly endless rows of booths keeping our eyes peeled for spring 08 trends.
While we love handbags beyond the point of distraction, to our disappointment, there wasn’t much new to report on since the last show.
There were of course exceptions. One favorite, was the “Doris Croc from Beverly Hills based Jalda. This elongated change purse with a matching leather strap is kind of twenties, and kind of modern. It was displayed in lime green, a popular accessories color choice for the coming spring, and in the $400 range, makes for a chic and practical addition to your spring wardrobe.
www.jaldastyle.com
Dropping in briefly at habitat accessories, we noted that flats are still going strong, and the more ornamentation, the better. The rhinestone buckled ballerinas make for a great option to stilettos for evening, and look just as dressy.
www.habitataccessories.com
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One of our favorites of the day was the charming Dayme, owner/designer of Babee D., her two-year-old sophisticated yet funky handbag line. Dayme’s a former singer, who made her own clothes and one day decided to turn her talents to design her own handbag line. There are plenty of large oversize yet stylish bags to choose from. Dayme favors large-scale bags as her clientele, “ a busy bee, a woman on-the-go doesn’t have the time to change her bags and outfits several times a day.” One of her eye-catching designs is the lemon cello ruched beauty in a fine quality leather and gold hardware of equally fine quality retailing in the $300-400 range.
www.babeed.com
We thought we’d had our fill of flats until we got to the Sam Edelman booth. We loved seeing stylish, contemporary shoes offered at a price.
The back-story: Libby and Sam Edelman aka “Sam & Libby” sold their name to Jones Apparel a few years back and retired to the relative serenity of the horse business. Thankfully for us shoe mavens, three years ago, they decided to re-enter the shoe market, this time at the contemporary level rather than the junior market they were major players in during their Sam & Libby days.
There were lots of great styles, and tons of pictures of fashion editorials, showing that the pair hasn’t lost their touch in the least.
Two of the best:
1. The gladiator thong ankle strap flats in black/gold simulated snakeskin, retailing @ $80 – 90.
2. The round-toed flats with a silver pilgrim buckle in a mod yellow, cream and gray patent color block that had us thinking of the Roger Vivier pair Catherine Deneuve so famously wore in “Belle de Jour”.
www.samedelman.com
THE NEWS IN HIGH END COSTUME JEWELRY: a tie for best-in-show
Lee Angel’s designs always figure into Neiman’s twice-yearly accessories preview, and we were eager to see more of what this talented designer has in mind for spring.
The basis of spring’s “Gia” Collection is a resin disk on which are placed varying geometric shapes and semi-precious stones such as jade as well as emerald cut Swarovski crystals . The effect is a little bit Art Deco, a little bit Mondrian. The black white and red pieces look best worn on top of fabric, [ideally black] rather than on bare skin
www.leeangel.com
Our other nomination for best in show in the jewelry category goes to designer Alexis Bittar for his wonderful studded Lucite cuffs available in emerald green, purple, and cobalt blue. At first glance, we were reminded of the oft-copied Maltese cross design that originated when Fulco di Verdura created his iconic Maltese Cross bracelets for Coco Chanel. What makes these different is that the crosses are elongated and made out of white metal studs rather than semi-precious jewels. If Posh Spice decided she wanted to insert a little Punk Fashion into her wardrobe, these cuffs would be a good choice. Each cuff retails for approximately $250, a bargain, considering how well finished they are. The inside of the cuff has a shiny black lacquer finish; an example of the attention to detail that makes Mr. Bittar’s pieces so special.
www.alexisbittar.com
MEETING WITH THE LEGENDARY ZANDRA RHODES
The highlight of the day though, was our pre-arranged meeting with legendary designer, Zandra Rhodes who was busy showing her collection and signing autographs for fans during the course of the show. Talents such as Ms. Rhodes design in many mediums, their immense creativity is not limited to merely designing a bi-annual clothing collection. Ms. Rhodes famously designed Princess Michael of Kent’s wedding dress founded London’s orange and pink Textile Museum and did the sets and costumes for the opera, “Aida” as well as “The Pearl Fishers”.
In this, her latest handbag collection, she referenced herself, and brought back the safety pin as a a zipper fob detail created for her by a custom jeweler. Her holes and beaded safety pin collection referenced here dates back to 1977 and is one of the most memorable collections that decade saw. Pieces from the collection are featured in her coffee table book, The Art of Zandra Rhodes.
The prints she used in soft leather bags such as the spacious “Notting Hill” [approx. retail $700-800] harkened back to the Indian feather print she sketched while visiting the Museum of the American Indian when it was still located in NYC. Images of these original sketches are also found in the book on pgs. 54-55. The colors are rich: deep purple, espresso, rust, black, navy, and olive combined with metallics in bronze, amethyst and gold. All of the bags are embellished with shiny gold hardware, oversized Swarovski crystals and signature jacquard lining.
Apart from feeling as if one is carrying a bit of fashion history on one’s shoulder, Ms. Rhodes’ bags, as the designer, are at core, practical, and the designer shared a few tips with us before being called to sign some autographs.
Zandra’s Handbag tips:
- For day, get a bag with lots of pockets, like the “Notting Hill” which can be a satchel or shoulder bag. Zandra never takes the shoulder straps off, as “eventually you’re going to want to put it on your shoulder”.
- Don’t be seduced by the idea of a stiff and structured bag even if it’s the “it” bag shape for fall 07, as you will deform it as a result of stuffing all of the things you need for daily life.
To order “The Art of Zandra Rhodes, contact: zanda@zandrarhodes.com
For more information, visit www.zandrarhodeshandbags.com
All merchandise listed in this article available at retail from March 2008 onwards.