LYRA MAG.

PORTS 1961 Timestamp: Friday, September 7, 2007 Text, Vivian G. Kelly Photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 7:50AM Backstage at Ports 1961 with designer Tia Cabani. Her Signature: designing “special daywear” Although she’d most likely pulled an all-nighter, Tia looked fresh and glamorous, as only chic European women can. Said Tia, “It’s about an easy and polished look. My woman is global and eclectic. Some of my customers are in their mid-20s and some are 60+. My clothes appeal to a wide age range of women.” Case in point: two staffers were wearing the identical gray Ports dress the morning of the show. One was 25, the other 47. Both looked equally fabulous as did twenty-something Ivanka Trump and Harper’s Bazaar Editor in Chief, Glenda Bailey, both sitting in the front row. Tia’s trends: At Ports, the dress is moving closer to the body. She achieved this with more tucking and pleating which places more of an emphasis on the waist. It’s in the details, at Ports, look for ...

Réyes French Flair Text by J. Ecochard, Images Courtesy of Reyes Sept 9th 2007 The moody stillness of the early (for this neighborhood) morning streets in NY’s quaintly named 'Meatpacking District'…mimicked the unusual backstage calm of Jose Ramon Réyes’ Bumble and Bumble staged show. As to be expected, under-aged models looked amazingly well rested –as they sipped champagne and recounted the fabulousness of assorted fashion week parties. The luxe leisure atmosphere was certainly on display to perfection as soon as Reyes’ first look hit the runway. Inspired by Jean Patou, and prehaps an 'admiration' for Vogue Editor Supreme Anna Wintour's love of tennis-the dropped waist, Roaring 20’s-ish, pleated, ivory knit skirt, deep v-neck, long sleeved ivory knit cardigan, and cap neck shell edged in large blocks of moderne navy and red, followed by superb tailored and sensuous silk dresses in navy, gray, black/white and yellow… will appeal to tho...

Van Cleef & Arpels' "Une Journee a Paris celebration Timestamp: Tuesday, September 4, 8:30pm Location: The Hammerstein Ballroom, 311 West 34th Street, Manhattan The Scene: a mob scene, but much more haute than the usual fashion week post-show crowd. Text, Vivian G. Kelly Photos of jewelry, courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels Photograph of Alber Elbaz & Demi Moore, ©Patrick McMullan Van Cleef is in a category all its own, their motto could well be, "the best of the best". The majestic red carpeted ballroom was the perfect backdrop for the breathtaking pieces on display in tableaux vignettes. Van Cleef took us to some of Paris' most iconic locations, including the Jardin des Tuileries, L'Ile de la Cite, and the Place Vendome. What makes Van Cleef unique is their signature settings. The stone[s] are set without any visible gold peeking through. The setting's structure resembles that of a railroad track and as a Van Cleef staffer explained, "are ...

Y & KEI opts for an arty presentation over a catwalk show Timestamp: Wednesday, September 5 Location: Celeste Bartos Forum, the NY Public Library Rating: ++ Text, Vivian G. Kelly Photographs courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week The tiny backstage was super-squashed but worth it to get a close look at the models in these exquisite clothes. There was a rainbow fish scale knee length dress with a nude chiffon neckline. Also of note was a black evening coatdress jacket worn with a black sequin skirt. This was the first time we saw sequins, which continued to appear at show after show later in the week. All the models wore towering double strap patent leather platform wedge sandals with baggy knee-highs that were so quirky that they worked. As far as the presentation went, the team at Y & Kei made it easy. The models were posed on the perimeter of a giant glass mirror that was smack in the center of the room. In the center was an interesting sculpture composed of unpainted ladd...

2001 CFDA Winners Work It For Women Texts and Photos by J. Ecochard September 11th, 2007 Fans of Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli’s Bruce line were probably happy with their second 'comeback' runway showing. The ladies delivered their highly coveted, sharp eye for details and polished, classically casual chic collection. Our favorites of this Spring 2008 outing were the soft flares and pleating on the gorgeously draped black jersey dresses, roomy pockets that are conveniently - and flatteringly- placed on nearly all garb… and the just right amount of shoulder padding to give some structure to elegantly tailored jackets and separates. The ikat print fabric, judiciously employed throughout the collection, lent some visual interest to a largely black/white/gray/red palette. In sum? Very grown up...and correct without being prissy. Hair and makeup were polished perfection. The Bumble and Bumble team delivered, soft, sleek styles with a smooth, brushed off the face hair in a s...

Alexander Wang-Young?-Yup! Talented?-Terrific! Text and Photos by J. Ecochard September 6th, 2007 Several NY Fashion Week designers targeted the 16 years old+, casual clothing market-that always conjure up weeks spent in the California coastal towns of Carmel-by-the-Sea and Malibu. Think, lusciously languid, upscale enclaves with minimum dress codes. Alexander Wang's performance , (all of 23 years old!) unlike some runway dramas, was actually interesting with white or black, softly ruffled -cotton dresses girlied up with patent leather heels, soft gray long sleeved button downs and leggings, great easy tailored, flattering cuts of white cotton shirts and shorts (with thin belts) paired with flats, slouchy denim cut-offs…and sweet one piece rompers/jumpsuits that could be be glammed up with the right amount of bling. Though the designer claims to be inspired by Melanie Griffith's charactor in "Working Girl"- we were more feeling the just right styling by the ideal em...

UK Duo Source 80's Germany For Striking Effects Text, Backstage Photos by J. Ecochard Runway Photos Courtesy of Poltock and Walsh September 10th, 2007: Fiamma Poltock and Kate Walsh creatively channeled the visual style of German film director Rainer Werner Fassbinder for their NY Runway debut, sponsored by Henri Bendel’s . The bold colors, black and white combos, and Spring 2008’s ‘it’ color, gray- shot through the slinky collection of structured high waist mini/midiskirts, black skinny jeans, and beige and nude soft, flowing dresses - strikingly topped with the duo's now signature crisp, multi-layered, ruffles. This Poltock and Walsh vibe is one epitomizing modern edge twenty somethings, especially when the sophisticated garb is paired with black garters/hoisery as styled for this Metropolitan Pavillion runway romp. In previous press interviews, the designers have professed admiration for the often clown attired/maquillage, Klaus Nomi, a ground breaking musical pe...