Monday, September 29, 2014

MakeUp in New York New Cosmetics/Trends Part 2

NYC

Going to makeup trade shows  clues us in as to how such diverse value retailers such as CVS and Carrefour (in France)-to primo priced fashion designers, makeup tools (Japonesque), celebs in cahoots with discounters (Flower's Drew Barrymore-Walmart)--- and respected makeup artists with a following--- but without established labs- production facilities can conjure up cutting edge, desirable cosmetics.

At the most recent MakeUp in New York…we were really impressed with this stand alone or mix-up with product… by the Cosmetic Group, USA, Inc.

A high pigment metallic gel shadow-that really, really does not crease…due to its 70% water composition-that has a pleasing cool to the touch application.

We have found that a lot of intense color cream shadows---and there are plenty now that are retailed-including (especially) the long wearing ones- ----in fact do crease up after about an hour or so-maybe too waxy in composition-and it ACTUALLY ages our eyelids older…!

Super impressive- the gold metallic tone we got a sample of- can mix with a bit of gel bronzer, liquid foundation, or lip gloss---for some sparkle. Expect to see this offered by several makeup brands next year.

Makeup artist Jody Formica never had a nano-second-using sponsor cosmetics to get gals all glammy. Taking about 30-40 minutes per-we were so impressed how each subtle dab of something-yielded results…whether making blue eyes bluer---or sculpting cheekbones on those with kinda flat faces.  
serious makeup kit---sponsors-ABC Texture, Alkos Group, Anisa Int'l, B.Kolormakeup&Skincare SRL, Cosmetic Group, CSR Cosmetic Solutions, Columbia Cosmetics, Confalioneri Matite, Faber-Castell Cosmetics, Gi Picco's Cosmetics, Orlandi, Oxygen Development, Pennelli Faro SRL




































Oddly enough-we always thought all the alphabet doubles- skin treatments ('BB', "CC' etc.) that are the makeup rage in the Western world- replacing foundations/sunscreens/primers--- -got their monikers because its easier to say just two letters in the English language by Asians who got the multi-taskers going...







Whatever---with now DD and EE formulas being launched…it is def. becoming a worldwide marketing thing---but IMO-with real value…for the targeted markets.

The South Korean based COSMECCA had display cases full of all their best selling BB/CC formulas …probably just a sliver of the company's functional cosmetics--- made for cosmetic labels---including  highly acclaimed premium priced compact versions -crafted for the cult names.


We got curious about the offering of a popular Korean brand Tony Moly-and its multi-tasking BCDNation. The brand-(Tony -English for nice appearance, Moly-Japanese for flourishing) has cutesy packaged makeup sold here---on e-commerce sites of Urban Outfitters and Amazon (mass-masstige prices)…but not widely available- this wonderful creamy foundation type of SPF30+ product-which offers more coverage than a typical BB cream. Official two thumbs up!






As packaging is part of this tradeshow---it was a lovely reminder of what the possibilities could be-when seeing what was-for cosmetics- from the 18th century to the present.










Preciously displayed under glass… this historical exhibition of "praise for complexion" objects -hosted by MakeUp in New York---had rare powder boxes and compacts from expert/collectors Jean-Marie Martin Hattermberg and Anne Camilli.






Stunning...
a tradition-we hope gets re-visited…iconic landmarks and occasions…so much better than a souvenir tee shirt!
rotary dial telephones -compacts-for the generations that will never experience one


WHAT ELSE:

A reception at the historic New York Athletic Club …supported by Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS)…with remarks by L'Oreal Executive Team Members- Stéphanie Martins and  Andy Corlett -highlighting the company's western hemisphere's organizational set-up--- and its willingness to look and work outside the box of the corporation's in-house divisions- with attendees (sub-contractors and suppliers)-to increase product offerings and to be reactively nimble-in a fast moving, trend driven, competitive market that sees small brands without all the chains of commands and with "non-traditional launch processes"----including social media---become 'overnight' best-sellers. (IMO-often resulting in being bought over by corporate giants). 

Students from SUNY's FIT -present an interpretation of "PINK"…we ran into these gals on the subway platform afterwards --and the glorious makeup that all had on-in shades flaunting pastel pinks to deeper fuscia-magenta. Naturally-being NYC---no one batted an eye at these dramatic looks,

Non USA run trade shows really take care of who shows up---with beverages, lunch and afternoon ice-cream. So civilized.

PART 1-Cosmetics

PACKAGING


Sunday, September 28, 2014

MakeUp in NEW YORK:New Cosmetics Part 1

Polychromatic®-Keystone Research+Pharmaceutical=nail lacquers, polishes, gels in loads of colors+finishes….plus new technology for nail treatments.  Their offerings make us want to start our own line! Free manis for attendees-THANKS.

Part 1


Novel cosmetic applications---gets assimilated PDQ---often because the companies enabling the makeup labels-big and small---are open for business- to all with the right funds…and of course-the desire to create+package cosmetics, minimum numbers met- and market/promote them so consumers get their chance to try/buy.

Custom formulations for products do exist--- by all companies we spoke with at least---but with gel eye-liners and makeup pencils-in particular -it seems the innovations are driven by these very same companies we talk to at trade shows like the wonderful makeUp in New York Show that just took place.

Patented and patent pending ingredients and packaging-like those from skin/haircare---are abundant. We see adverts on this all the time---BUT who holds the patent-can be these 'unknown' private label entities…not the makeup brands themselves.

Depends-i.e. L'Oreal holds hundreds of patents and has its own extensive R+D departments---but reaches out to outside companies (more of that in a later post).

Schwan Cosmetics (fyi schwan=swan in German) has a huge assortment of colors, formulas, application systems and packaging… including long wearing eye pencils that go on and stay---good for warm -humid climates.
Enduring trends--- multi-tasking (anti-aging, hydrating-oil controlling, UV+ blocking) formulations (liquid, powder+pencil)- with proven results, natural and/or sustainable ingredients, colors that are bold (particularly eye/nail shades), easy applications (eyebrow pencils and concealers in new formulations-stand out),  and a global marketplace demanding products that suits their clothes (think long wearing for humid climates)skin tones and gender-specific (men's specific concealers-bronzers come to mind though we don't know the sale numbers)=lead to  the fast pace of new developments... that are impressive.

Highlights:

Schwan Cosmetics-enduring black-cat's eyes makeup is classic-inky dark shade sets pretty fast






Schwan Cosmetcs-Chubby lip pencils-now come in lots of colors and finishes-including the ever popular semi- matte finish… and sheer tints-l are moisturizing. Clinique's chubby pencils started this explosive segment of the market a few years back.
What we would love to try-is Schwan Cosmetics' new buildable waterproof mascara…our experience-waterproof mascara dries too hard for multi-layering-we usually applied over a lengthening mascara…but this new formulation allows for that without the crunchy Tammy Faye look…so we were told.
sheerer lip tints and-self-sharpening popular -…so always have perfect shape
Reminds us of a Charlotte Tilbury (makeup artist) quip ---that she use to need five mascaras to get the look she wanted-before she came out with her own (which we have not tried).

German company Faber-Castell (since 1763) is acclaimed for their writing instruments---and in more modern times ---their fab high performance cosmetics from a country probably still celebrating its recent high drama World Cup win.

We swooned over this salesperson's collection of cosmetic of pens and pencils. A lot to love…including the Metallic Chic+ Gleam Dream collections -which-IMO kinda resurrects the popularity of those shimmery metallic chubby pencils (90s)…into 21st century formulations that is PVC free, 16 hour-long wearing-water smudge and transfer proof…air tight(!) and sharpen-able Jumbo Plastic pencils.
Long wearing=idiot proof application=Twist and Shout. Beyond black long wearing colors--in the new Beyond Paradise colors-Stroke of Genius liquid eyeliner-comes in multiple rich intense pigment colors and pearl effects with a felt tip-one stroke needed. Bet this looks awesome- on darker skin tones…in particular where black cats eye's flair could use some oomph (IMO)
Back in the day, we remember lighting a match and heating up a pencil for smoother applications… Now---easy on is a given-and Faber-Castell ingredients are often Eco-Cert with 20% actives in formulas.

Love-Simply Red velvet smooth satin finish-semi-matte moisturizing chubby lip pencil with high pigmented long wearing color- with hyaluronic acid, panthenole, &ceramides.








We should have asked for a sample of this…the Cool Cat-is -"the perfect combo for creating 'rock-chick' look that never goes out of style." One end is a deep black 12 hour liquid liner with an extra long tapered tip…the other is a creamy kajal with an intense finish (self sharpening cap)…in an airtight combo stick packaging.
Faber-Castell-95% wood is sourced from sustainable supply-as indicted on the pencil---Forest Stewardship Council logo from. PLUS---all we saw are paraben free-imo Europe is more on board than USA  with this. 

Gutberlet Cosmetics-is also German based---and a parent to a resurrected writing instrument company (Kaweco-since 1883).
long felt tip liquid eyeliner…precise application ---long wearing.





we were obsessed with these base model sticks-with spongy tip---clicks into-  on the other end-a reservoir for ---in this case-liquidy concealer. …and an online search conjured up all sorts of patents held by H&M Gutberlet®
We got a show and tell here-via ARTDECO--- a growing German makeup brand that has really not taken off on this side of the POND yet -though we got to try some of the line's makeup from press event---last Spring.
best sellers-we can see why the double sided Eye Designer Applicator-Eye Designer Refill-Art Deco

by-Gutberlet---the makeup eye shadow cartridge- is replaceable/changeable---clicks-twists right into the base unit with the applicator on each end. Very eco---we were wondering how this could be retailed here…38 shades fragrance free available (we counted).

This is going to be popular-we see hints of this backstage…in place of the now classic smokey eye---(in shades of grey, black, brown)---Jovi's Pastel Shadow pencils. "...highly pigmented soft matte pastel shadows in silky smooth texture' are a fun alternative---go on easily with one stroke (though it is build-able)…and very long lasting. We tried the pretty blue shade-went for an hour long pool swim---and it held up better than our right rotator cuff.
IMO pastel tones will be more popular next Spring 2016---we reported on many backstage makeup-at NY fashion shows for S/S 2015---and didn't see much in the ways of pastel eye shadows…but we will. FYI: the lemony shade of yellow-interesting--- with our green eyes …fair skin-paired with coral lip gloss  This shade look fab on darker tones.
JOVI Cosmetics (from Spain)---was new to us but we got to test drive a bunch of their fabulous portfolio of wooden and liquid ---and jumbo automatic pencils for lips, eyebrows (important trend lately)---and eyes.

Another fav …Dip Liner liquid eyeliner-here in a purple with gleaming-shiny metallic hints ---reminded us, in a good way-of automobile-Plymouth Colt (1994)--- color--back in the ole' Nirvana days.

The company is ISO 9000:2008 certified following GMP guidelines (which we searched-is quality management systems verified by internal audit checks or by an independent verification company) .

Not a great picture---but from Korea's HWA Sung Cosmetics…we were topped in our tracks by this double ended "Lip Stick and Lip Powder Pearl" combo…as many makeup artists-recommend putting a bit of glitter on cupids bow to highlight lips-give the illusion of a fuller pout. Well this two sided instrument-is a semi-sheer lip color (customizable of course)- one end---and a powdery gold metallic on the other…neatly achieves that with texture thrown in. Reminds us of some of the new nail art applicators.






Cosmetics: Part 2
Packaging

Friday, September 26, 2014

MakeUP in New York: Packaging Highlights

Makeup/grooming packaging-like perfume/cologne - has insta- shelf appeal…for consumers who may not even have an understanding of what's inside beyond the brand's identity-captured in the visual message the 'vehicle' displays-or emotes…via shape, weight, color, texture-and the label.

And from what we could see in a mere few hours-the customization options result in great designs ---available worldwide. It's fascinating -seeing the innovative backbone of an industry where packaging is key.

Some highlights:
Bottle coatings----the variety of colors and textures are magical and seemingly endless for customization. We thought this beautiful metallic spray coating on LUMSON's glass bottle very luxurious...inner sprays-lacquering in glass bottles ---a very upscale finish.

comes apart for recycling-we find European  companies more attune to that, in general…exceptions are USA brands with strong 'green' DNA---but imo-not the majority of makeup consumer's request eco packaging solutions on this side of the Pond. Lumson's-made from PET (pictured)
Fairly obsessed with this…and no doubt will see a masstige-premium brands adopt  APP: AIRLESS PLASTIC PACKAGING with -P Colors--- as eye candy as nail art ---in acid bold colors. Airless is the only way to sell a cream or liquid that goes on the skin, really---and this inner pouch deflates ever so slowly with each pump/dose- and lets consumers see-in a manner of speaking-what's left. Because not getting to the last drop is annoying. Lumson delivers super fun visuals!!!!!


this sales rep super nice-from Barça -so naturally Messi got in the convo
From A.B.A. Packaging Corporation…airless lipstick…sensuous shape….ideal for precise lipstick application.

OKEAbeauty  2 component Bi-Injection Blow Molded Bottle
patent pending-little window reveals color of the contents---great for those liquid eyeshadows, or lip glosses. UV protected contents  too


a MUST for skin care creams in a jar with a lid-A.B.A. has an airless alternative-press the top for single dose without risking contamination…otherwise what is the point of paying for all those ingredients…once exposed to oxygen. 



SAMPAR day cream moisturizer-a French brand ---we have had this for about 2 years….similar system.



Luxury packaging…is beginning to include aluminum-beyond men's grooming products- with shape, size, printing/stamping options by A.B.A. …that reminds us of what the outdoors industry delivers via liquid containers too-including a fav-Liberty Bottleworks (made in the USA too).
Mascara tubes---are getting as sculptural as perfume bottles

FUSIONPKG™-we didn't chit chat with anyone but the company certainly puts out the welcome mat for social media connections-something B to B companies in this biz will do more of. IMO.


Pictured: Tube based tip options by Fusion: Rollerball, (so popular for under-eye), Soft Slope, Pro Tip…and social media campaign. This company has a lot of major clients known  for their cutting edge 'stuff'
Fusion Packaging-Stylo tips deliver in precise doses…keep it all airtight and don't clog…very sleek


MINI-MEs:

Birchbox (who now has a brick-mortar space down in SOHO selling full size products)--- and the proliferating number of sample subscriptions in the USA and elsewhere --- does drive sales of full size products…so we were told.









The result-a  booming business of unit dose packaging…joining the giveaways distributed through typical channels of yesteryear and today.


















From Livcer---sample packs are a product's packaging's version of icing on the cake -naturally fulfilling requirements of preserving the ingredients of what's inside from contamination-and easy accessibility/convenince.

All samples pictured here perfectly capture the brand's identity-imo---on a design level---AND caught our our eyeballs right away.
Whether makeup, skin or hair care care product (bottom shelf), or perfume---Livcer delivers creative packaging solutions for its wide variety of customers.
LOVE to see-more re-sealable sampling options, and more eco components-materials used from post consumer recycled sources, …and at least where we live-unless we tore it apart-we can not recycle unit dose packaging, generally speaking and doubt the materials are bio-degradable either. It's time.

MakeUp in New York Part 2 Cosmetics