Monday, February 17, 2014

BLACK SAIL by NAUTICA+ GENERAL IDEA A/W 2014 Menswear #NYFW

Lincoln Center-Chelsea Piers NYC

Menswear shows tend to be flights of fancy for the guys we know…who pay absolutely no attention to any of it.

But like that iconic Meryl Streep -Devil Wears Prada talk down---what's on the runway gets diluted down-and affects the male wardrobe-in one way or another.

LIKE-the snowboarders we know- rock some fairly colorful outfits, or guys on the golf course often attire themselves flamboyantly.

Otherwise- a handful of colors-rule-on--- and the menswear collections we saw-navy, grey (shades of-before that book came out), olive (camo for military ones), khaki-beige, white-especially for l/s button downs, and black…an urban dweller staple tone…dominated.

Bumps of yellow, orange, pink, lavender---the flirty shades ---make appearances on occasion-but rare ones.

Fraser Harrison/Getty
So when we cover some menswear ---that's not part of the outdoors market---we're looking for style with smart functionality-via technical and/or functional fabrics- and design details that are masculine in nature…in colors that skew not so daring.



Black Sail by Nautica-is the high priced offshoot of the sailing inspired brand that makes good looking basics-year round. Last season we felt that the designer-Chris Cox-was using sporty technical textiles-a big plus- and putting his unique touch on silhouettes that at times would be a bit challenging for the guys we know.

This Fall/Winter 2014 outing-we felt he really showed more wearable fashion-inspired by "Tundra: Contrast of the Elements."As in terrific weather tough outerwear-insulated coated anoraks and techno nylon bombers, 3d printed hoodies, bright cable knit sweaters-some with leather trims, longer slim fitting trousers-color blocked-scrunged up atop lace-ups…rugged handsome looks that won't make American men fear a dip into sartorially suave separates.



General Idea's collaboration with Head Skiwear a few seasons back was one of our fav collaborations between athletic brands and fashion designer….something that Adidas and Burton both do a lot---and do well.

SO---Bum Suk Choi-a South Korean native and FIT was on our radar---and as part of Concept Korea 2011-had an editorial following too.

We expected-smart wearable wears -and as it turns our- like one of our treasured brands NAU…General Idea is appreciated by in the industry- fashion professionals who know what really goes into how a zipper and button is placed, a sleeve is cut, a fabric is selected-etc.


When we got backstage-the models were already ready for the show-with grooming by Shiseido…and high tops-the footwear preferred…by Dr. Martens.


the designer-layered up-like the long tunic shirt-leather


lots of posing with admirers-
Sticking with the tonal palette that is what guys wear ---black, greys, whites-looks incorporated mixes of natural fibers-tweeds and boiled wool layer able sweaters-which were under the tweed color blocked coats, slim trousers and long leather shorts/cropped pants-(and attached skirts)- for urban trendsetters we assume----a look we saw in other lines that we have yet to see worn on the streets (yet) so we wonder how they will sell…






...and then cozy tees in cotton and looks like merino wool…under ribbed long sleeve sweaters-finely knit---looks that will def sell...


runway pics-General Idea











Leather jackets-all terrific-quilted patterns -and leather trousers-with moto details ...we are sure the smaller sizes will appeal to women too---















 A lot of hairspray went into this greasy/wet look----"90's goth"-Matthew Curtis for Tresemme and  Katie Mellinger for Shiseido- did the makeup.



 GENERAL IDEA