Thursday, October 3, 2013

Academy Of Art University® S/S 2014-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

Lincoln Center, NYC

The School of Fashion at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco showed off (rightfully so-once again)-fashion collections of select students and recent grads-in a professionally staged runway to best highlight the talent and their winning ensembles.

We always like to get backstage early on-so we have a chance to meet some of the future industry leaders in the biz....

Gwen Shihyao Lai (M.F.A. Fashion Design) flirty and flowing/pleated "sunlight and fire" womenswear was inspired by nature---specifically citing- the tree bark paintings of Filipino artist, Thaddeus Ochoa Pagaduan...which came through in fabrics used---particularly the ikat print and faded (carefully bleached) materials (cotton, linen, silk). 
a printed pointed button down collar l/s blouse- underneath completed the look of this burnout vest-bottom part is sheer --- looked great on the runway.




stunning fabrics too-wedge booties worked perfectly with outfits 
Ridiculously talented-we were swooning over these distinct silhouettes and stunning fabrics-mastered by designer Vicken Dererian. No surprise-he told us he graduated with an architecture degree (from Southern California Institute of Architecture) before attending AAU... and is inspired by many architect greats including the classically leaning Mies van der Rohe-as well as "...that wavy building on the West Side Highway..." (IAC's flashy headquarters by Frank Gehry)...as well as Japanese icons like Yohji Yamamoto.


Leslie Dilloway-matching liquid shimmery pant matches the tank-
Leslie Dilloway (BFA Menswear Design) showed us a few of her loosely fitted mens' looks that we feel are unisex worthy. No doubt a first -she cited her inspiration as ethnic Turkish prints and textures -with a late '80s-early 90's London based, Turkish cab driver as her muse. 

Opening the show was menswear designer Didvik Kuang...who cited Giorgio Armani's legendary American Gigolo wardrobe for actor Richard Gere---as influence-reinterpreted... his take was lounge wear influenced.
Button down shirt w/ double let pants-the one look with a matching tie...Didvik Kuang



Marine Rongrong Wei-made this fabric too!
Ha ha....we noticed the camera first...

Marine Rongrong Wei (BFA Menswear Design) took vintage inspired- crafted clothing circa 1930's as her point of thought...for what seemed to us to be a very comfy to wear collection of oversized silhouettes. A mix of textures kept things interesting too...and reminded us of all those voluminous shapes we are seeing for womenswear (coats+trousers) this Fall 2013...vs men's clothing that seems to be more fitted/schoolboy looking-at least on the runways. 
sculpted jacket-hint of moto...we'd pair with jeans...
One of the reasons we go backstage prior to any show-is that unless one is front row-it is easy to miss the wonderful intricacies of the textiles/knits used. Case in point-the all done by hand-took forever knit wear-fashioned into modern separates-a collaboration of  knitwear designer-Shanshan Bai and Winbo Shiau -responsible for the sculptural jackets, skirts and pants.
hand knit
we call these knits-retail ready!
M.F.A.-ers-Winbo Shiau (l) personally selected by fashion giants Max+ Lubov Azria for an LA based deign internship-with Shanshan Bai (r) winner of both 2013 Four Seasons Hotel Uniform Design Competition + Sea Fashion Challenge.

close-up of knits-

Very Paris chic we thought-the seven white tone, multi-texture, hand details galore- luxurious outfits from Nika Tang were all très élègant---and a fab way to end the show. 

Nika Tang (MFA Fashion Design)-inverted triangle silhouettes-courtesy of ruffles---with macramé details-a big wow!
This talent has clearly mastered tailoring par excellence---and her use of textured prints on the fabrics (hard to see from these pics)...richly added to every item.


Volume, movement, texture=the mantra, The run of show cited the initial shape of the garments  "takes on the half dome and ruffled silhouette of a sunfish, and the fabrics reflect the caviar eggs," Realist artist Kris Kusi's stone carvings, Swiss architect Mario Botta, and the sculpture of South Korea's Byounghou Kim-also inspired.
hand beaded detail close-up---aka "caviar eggs"




















Ryan Morar (BFA-Menswear Design) collaborated  with Melissa Avalos-a textile design BFA for this colorful outing of guy clothes that referenced Robert Rauschenberg's "Combines" mixed media artwork ---as well as those always hip sounds of Sonic Youth and Beat Happening albums. Impressive- since he probably wasn't even born yet-when those tunes dropped.

Ryan Motarthis printed jacket-multi-process-he told us-actually sand papered for texture
Very wearable for guys like basketball NBA Knick Center Tyson Chandler (see below) who clearly knows how to look edgy modern and hip---Morar has worked for cool label Stussy in LA --- interned for Jeremy Scott (past) and Antwerp's Walter Van Beirendonck (present). Quite the resumé-already.

manning the presses

Ryan Morar steams out his wares
WHAT ELSE:



Menswear looks mean more male models. 
look board...

backstage staples

Jon Reyman for beauty VT™-had the wigs/ extensions going-for a punky 70's/80's vibe. A waaay cleaner version of it if our memory serves us right lol.

we always like to offer home styling tips---but when it comes to clip-in extensions-other than bangs-get help.

gals with naturally long hair-blow-dry slick straight


final look

manicurist own---half moon with textured gold/sheer pink


soft smokey eye...

neat but fully loaded-the brush kit alone offers up every shape ever.

JANESSA PARE for Aveda used SPRING 2014 shimmery soft pastel shadows to soften up the smokey eye...the Berry lip glaze was used for a stained lip, Very pretty.
Janessa Pare for Aveda




In the main lobby-prior to the SUNO fashion show-we saw this tall guy who we figured for an NBAer from a local team. This is how a guy should rock the latest looks-we thought-with clothes that fit perfectly. As it turned out-this is Tyson Chandler-Knicks center...who probably would have appreciated the AAU show too.
NY KNICKS CENTER TYSON CHANDLER-in lobby

Tyson Chandler-