Sunday, September 25, 2011

FRATELLI ROSSETTI SPRING 2012 PRESENTATION

The Standard, NYC

Diego Rossetti
New York Fashion Week

A flawless fusion of a collection by the Italian luxury footwear/accessories company,  Fratelli Rossetti wonderfully referenced its acclaimed heritage --- including the iconic Brera Mocassin - a 60's tassled classic...
Deep Peacock blue -very popular


















Oxford in Olive Green begins life without dye as seen on right


and the elegant Oxford shoe....was presented early on to media types recently.


Shoes hung on meat hooks-reference to Meatpacking District locale


























Handcrafted and finished traditionally influenced selections blended with the sunny contemporary cultural nuances-via notably, the marvelous colors and savvy chic women's offerings designed in collaboration with the California based George Esquivel....were casually laid out for us to admire.
George Esquivel

And with the inclusion of two Parabiago based employees who were flown over to visibly demonstrate the intensive labor required to hand apply vegetable dye---(at least 4 coats)...



Each craftsman can hand dye about 8 shoes a day-



















4 Craftsmen labor over the dye part of making Fratelli Rossetti shoes








And hand stitch the sides of a loafer shoe for men...when we were there.



















MEN"s

With Amercian guys dressing up and better....we feel this may be the year that Fratelli Rossetti's men's collection really takes off, in a matter of speaking---as upscale department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue--join select e-commerce sites- to offer the footwear.

Leather lined-these shoes allow a man's foot to breath


Crepe sole loafers in autumnal shades with deep patina 
Contrast stitching of uppers make this handsome take on the classic oxford-modern 




















It's almost as if this side of the Pond is finally catching up to the shoes -both casual and formal---that this family-owned company has been crafting for the past 60 years.






Notably, the thinner lasts/slim profiles that complete an outfit-whether a smartly tailored formal suit, or worn-in denim with a crisp polo top.
Woven boots with smooth leather-very cool


Highlights...

Weaving-braided leather -




Actually upper is cut and woven by hand...amazing, really





































Hand stitched




















Hand applied perforation details are notable highlights for Spring...created right on the uppers ---not stamped on by machine...


Monk strap is an elegant detail for this versatile shoe
















A soft, easy to wear deconstructed footwear...created by the "Toledo" technique applied to materials such as nappa leather-that creates an opaque but rich tone to the many styles.



Interesting-we got to see how the samples without the leather outsoles attached-to better see how the upper materials are in fact one piece---more expensive to use than stitched together pieces.


























PLUS: use of materials like linen in the mix.

















We don't recall ever seeing those immense chunky boots for guys-back in the day- needing  to offset those baggy hip hop pants ---

---a moment on the style chart here...

That kind of clunky silhouette was never the focus of Fratelli Rossetti---who we think as designers are mindful of trends...but really, above it all...including their take on the classic chuka style.










































Hobo -lace shoes without the laces





















WOMEN's

Fratelli Rossetti's females are in for a real treat---as we loved the selections in both bright and flesh tone colors...



Perforations and flirty fringes---



Although we noticed less height-worthy offerings and as more usual, minimal hardware embellishments, we loved these stacked heels the most---so sculptural and graceful---not vulgar like many other higher priced labels.




these sling back open toe sandals are so elegant....

Equestrian for spring-linen and leather keep it summery
















The best boot--leather sculpture for the legs



Our fav




suede open toe booties-3 season wear

Flat shoes figure prominently---as Rossetti himself told us, "...they are considered as elegant in Europe as their sky scraper sisters."



We loved the feminine take on mens' styles ....perforations in a suede bootie with fun flaps....


Fun and sassy-female oxford


Tear dropped shape heel-give a bit of  height




The soft leather slip-ons selections by Fratelli Rossetti...come in wonderful colors---
Feminine takes on the guys' favorite slip-ons-including woven leather and linen




As comfy as slippers----







We definitely noticed that there was a noticeable lack of sneaker-clad humans...even casual lifestyle sneakers--- being worn by trend-setting teeners in Europe this past summer. 

Frankly, there is something effortlessly cool about rockin' comfortable shoes-as just about every woman we know covering Fashion Week who wasn't being town car-ed around ---stopped doing the switching up of footwear before RTW shows----and wore stylish patterned ballet flats that week.


PLUS:


Absolutely wonderful...were all the sluchy, buttery soft leather satchels...in the same terrific shades as the shoes.
Cutouts on suede




















ALSO:

Not at the presentation---but there is a line of apparel ---include perfectly made leather and suede jackets-avaiable now for Fall 2011. We actually managed to squeeze into the 625 Madison Avenue boutique for about 45 seconds on Fashion Night Out---to snap this pic of our top pic for autumnal coverings.

The DJ---spinning an Italian Euro-pop version of the disco hit "Gloria"---kept the bubbly sipping, posh crowd-entertained. Better than a night at a club, we figured, despite the store lighting...


INFO: http://www.fratellirossetti.com