Friday, July 30, 2010

URBAN COOL & AMERICANA DOMINATE S/S 2011 COLLECTIONS


WE HOPE TO SEE ACROSS THE POND

BREAD & BUTTER, BERLIN

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
 Adidas--Retro...


Many European labels tread violate the American motto” Don’t Tread on Me”---because of their names...too close for USA trademarks (as in fashion denim label Tribeca New York---).
 CAMPUS 72- Preppy takes on USA Collegiate---
There were a few collections we took in at Bread & Butter Tradeshow---that we hope---figures it out…in time for  the S/S 2011 lines that start delivery in late November/December..
 Slugging it out and hanging out for fashion

GAS "Essensual Jeans"--had an architectural modern exhibit space--- a very clean Hotel set up---with different rooms featuring the many collections this denim focused lifestyle brand offers.

The Boyfriend barely makes a blip here---what we saw at GAS was innovation.

AS IN reversible jeans ---we couldn’t take pics…but saw how it all works denim one side, printed fabric on other. Great for travelers or those that tend to spill stuff on their clothes…as well as the thrifty who get two looks in one.









































































---In the subways...

GAS also invests in technology---and we saw the best jeggings ever---made with heat technology that seals the “seams” but in fact serve up seamless garments. This is typically seen in the performance wear we review---to prevent chafe…

Here the seamless MO is just as desirable ---these are close fitting garments. WE LOVE how Gas jeggings won’t leave obnoxious imprints on our skin either, like what our sunglasses do to the bridge of our nose when we take them off.

The brand has flagship stores in Milan, Berlin, Hamburg, London and Tokyo…all fashion forward destinations.





































Tapered Looks---no baggy


GIO GOI is a Pentland Company (huge Brit entity)…that’s a “lifestyle fashion brand” with “new everything.” It started as a cult fav label for the Rave set with its denim and shoes...but has Rhianna as a very 21st century celeb. 


Diesel---with it’s BE STUPID (smart listens to the head, stupid listens to the heart)…is looking awfully BRILLANT…especially after some of it’s advertisements were banned in the UK as being offensive. Well talk about a free, thank-you very much, buzz machine.

And yes, “Smart May Have The Brains, But Stupid Has The Balls” is not a tagline for some Jersey Shore reality star…but was probably hurled at Diesel founder Renzo Rosso when he decided wwwaaayyyy back in the early 80’s---to launch a premium “aspirational” brand of denim---and charge what he did. SO who’s dumb now---that guy is a jeans' deity. Bravo.

Beverage of choice...Beer




 Netherlands Orange---'It Color'

























G STAR RAW









G-STAR RAW Spring /Summer 2011 @ BREAD & BUTTER



Tempelhof Airport, Berlin

Words/Images Judith Ecochard













G-Star Raw (http://www.g-star.com) is a lifestyle brand hailing from denim couture DNA---

This Dutch company (founded 1989) has worldwide acclaim--- but more so in Europe where this label hails.

Currently, the big theme is the Raw World Chess Challenge, pitting numero uno champ Magnus Carlsen vs the World

FYI: the global competition is coming to NYC September 10th

In Berlin at the tradeshow Bread & Butter, the company staged a fast paced runway show for the press that featured, like-able slim cut, relaxed silhouettes of denim and casual pieces.

For guys, a lot of slim low rise, low crotch (not Hip—Hop oversized baggy)…

Here, it is not the way the clothes fit, it’s the way the garment is cut---a tailoring option we have yet to see popular in the USA (not those insane baggy bits we see on the subways on kids that lack mirrors at home)…but lends a certain amount of swagger if the guys have the body for it. Few do ---.




















There are always hints of the late 80’s/early nineties---but we picked up the ‘I’ve Been Workin’ On The Railroad/Farmer” vibe--




















-- mixed in with beach casual…rolled up, pants, crisp but easy wear white separates---sleeves and hems rolled up...























Denim jackets-vests- rompers-minis, plus hoodies and few leather jackets---made well, wardrobe friendly---not re-inventing the wheel, but a refresher course.



(shorts for guys---really short)



Rinses ran the spectrum from dark to bleached out, distressed for the most part.


























As always, accessories were few but on target…bandannas, oversized haulers, leather belts cinching the waists.





































The return of the chino???? More of a dress-up alternative for casual wear---white dresses and beige blazers, a trench…easy on the eye basics.

The staging is always terrific…with three runways holding always in action guys and gals. Models walking a fast clip---could blend into any city at that clip...London, NYC....



















----and massive screens capturing the models on the runways.







Thursday, July 29, 2010

C.NEEON SPRING/SUMMER 2011




Mitte, Berlin

Words, Images Judith Ecochard 


It was a hot one---but a leafy courtyard was a nice, calm setting for the midday alfresco show by of C Neeon a German label founded by Clara Kraetsch and Doreen Schulz, who met in 2001 at the Kunsthochschule Berlin college.





















We haven’t seen their rtw show for over a year---so it was nice to see how evolved the collection has become.

































The detailed, painterly crafted fabrics are the story here---truly exceptional…a point made at the subtly dramatic ending when coverlets were floated to the ground---ready to be admired up close.


Because the designs were geometrically divided===spatially sophisticated yet wearable (mimicked in the models braided hair style which will probably not catch-on)…

We thought the simple silhouettes of breezy long dresses, leggings, tops with fringe attachments--- the ideal way to show up the incredible graphics.

































Also origami-like folded fabrics---very labor intensive and walking works of textile art IMHO--- explains the MASSIVE popularity of C.Neeon in Japan...and how cool---paired with richly detailed leggings and kickers!

































Clever---a striped pattern…in an easy wear ensemble made from what looked like stretchy cotton jersey.


This is a really interesting collection---as such we think Americans looking for unique attire---should check out the shop list on C.Neeon’s site.































































We know the duo has shown at Project here in the USA…and so far, a few trendy, edgy boutiques like Seven in NYC serve up the label.