Spring/Summer 2011 COLLECTIONS
MILK STUDIOS, NYC
Words/Images Judith Ecochard
It was a mass convergence of practically everyone we knew in fashion, taking in a presentation or five all staged as in an art gallery--- on the 8th floor of MILK STUDIOS---the downtown answer to uptown’s Lincoln Center Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tents.
A hip vibe, amassed by swarms of humans, mostly clad in black--- came to look at, as well as to soak up the party scene…as beer was flowing (on tap/ sponsor Magic Hat)…or buzz away on Café Bustelo and Luna Bars…there for the taking.
MANDY COON’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection was terrific…featuring largely solid color (black, white, grey coral) dresses with raw edges, draped plains of fabric sewn together --- flattering, cohesive...smart fashion.
A modern and sharply focused outing that brought out the major print editorial faces.
We loved a flowing tea length frock…with a dark print and black petticoat/hem ---that we could see just billowing up slightly while strolling along the ocean’s edge at night.
According to the run of show, this line was inspired by Coon’s sojourn in Tulum, Mexico…a former hippy/yoga retreat that’s morphed into a spiritually connected, cool spot to soak up the sun---with enormous white sandy beaches, fresh water diving in an underground cave system (Ceyotes)…and nearby Aztec ruins.
For the designer, inspiration from the jellyfish, the “silent ghosts of the sea,” beauty mixed with fear (they sting, ouch)…combined with photographer Camille Solyagua’s black/white images of these underwater creatures…
The rubbery belts ---a nice textural contrast. And all models sported a bowl shaped hair...like the designer herself.
WHAT ELSE: Shoes by LD TUTTLE for MANDY COON.
BILLY REID’s Spring/Summer 2011 staged male models outfitted in fresh, well-designed, high-end clothes that were inspired by the characters inhabiting/or from the designer’s home state of Louisiana.
Think- the rich visuals of the southern gentleman, dapper, eccentric, unique---in classic looks oozing Americana, properly attired from head (courtesy of a capsule collection with the stellar hat makers, Stetson) to toe (courtesy of capsule collection with the original tennis shoemaker K-Swiss) ---.
The men posed amidst vintage doors flown up from Alabama--- cleverly placed as if on a theater set---and as we learned, influenced by the work of “surrealist lifestyle artist” photographer Clarence John Laughlin.
The ensembles were in tribute to guys personally known or known by the designer…
…Like the hero former USA Airline pilot par excellence “Sully Fitzpatrick- Union man done well” in “a wash navy coated cotton marigny coat, natural/navy ticking stripe cotton sport jacket, white cotton monogram oxford, washed red cotton pique pocket polo, destructed stone cotton twill chino, hand-made burnished steerhide Indianola shoe-boot, natural cotton pick stitch webbed d-ring belt, natural duck/cordovan messenger bag.”
A bit more than casual Friday attire.
A bit more than casual Friday attire.
Polished, quality separates throughout, lots of cotton blends (cotton twill, cotton/cashmere, coated cotton, cotton jersey, cotton pique)…fitting given it’s a southern grown crop…
…And some summery linen too.
KIMBERLY OVITZ gets the gggrrrrrllll award for a fierce looking bold black and white line-up of striking draped, architectural outfits…clothing models who looked menacing or haunting---via bleached eyebrows…
And depending on their get-up.
We read that the concept of “chaos” factored into this sunny designer’s thinking…
…And the stark white beamed set reminded us of jail cells---as if they fell out of the sky during some lightening storm as thunder bolts…really it could have been lifted from Beacon Dia or any other major modern art museum. Maybe it was.
The outfits were mostly tailored to a sleek fit. We thought ensembles for grown-up ladies who might chair some executive board...not frocks for the young starlet de jour. Not that they wouldn't look great in a KO outfit.
We loved the sleeveless dresses, pants with angled tops, a trench
---and this long fitted dress...a dazzling sophisticated display of stripes...
LNA was new to us. Founded by Lauren Alexander and April Leight in 2007, we thought these deceivingly simple, but well thought out separates looked so comfortable…
We thought ---the clothes we would wear all day, when traveling, or just hanging out, anywhere.
Wearable chic---LA FORMAL
Drawstrings tamed some looser styles, sheer fabrics as well as stretchy materials.
…Exposed seams on tees with different style straps for interest… skinny pants, and fashion plays on athletic-wear like laced-up sweats.
Leggings, some denim, tanks---easy to mix and match and definitely “basics with edge.”
In black, a pretty melon (pale orange), white and a sea blue dominated the palette…
One Wall of Video showed the collection in motion....
Jewelry by New York based MADE HER THINK presented by Meredith Khan was gypsy inspired for this outing. The presentation space, next to Mandy Coon---was decorated like an exotic tent filled with nature shaped, delicate and solid metal “hex” pendants, earrings, bracelets, gauntlet rings, and necklaces--- that connoted spiritual powers and came with suggestive spells to ensure one’s fortune.
Immediately we eyeballed the slouchy leather satchel handbags…with the tagline…”To Glimpse Your Future Love.”
Well, we glimpsed our future carryall with great metal hardware…especially the Gala Bag---with lace-up side details.