Thursday, July 15, 2010



BERLIN, GERMANY…July 8th 2010

Words/Images Judith Ecochard

We think the Premium Tradeshow in Berlin is run really well. And that's why 950 exhibitors and over 46,000 buyers and press types display, view and write orders for high end clothing and accessories for men and women.

Laid out in a spacious former train station, the show’s flow is logical --- grouped by attire type- more or less, with the second Premium Men’s ensconced on the second floor, 

...a separate area for emerging, lesser known brands, a section devoted to the green(er) labels, accessories (jewelry, handbags, footwear etc).

A sun filled, tree green brick courtyard and an indoor space are relaxing areas to lunch (this is Europe, after all, they take lunch time)....

The Premium labels are distinctly different than those at Bread & Butter where 500 denim, streetwear, arty, fashion forward and casual lines rule the roost ---plus a major effort to make it a party with bands at night, a Grandstand for viewing the World Cup, a massive Biergarten with a very generous pour, open bars (espresso and booze) in spacious display booths, and exhibitors spaces that belong in hip museums like PS 1 and the Dia Foundation…and must have cost serious euros to design and construct. Now that is a coffee table book.

But back to Premium…

…where we never have enough time….ever.

What grabbed us on this outing was the men’s label Burlington…and yup, it used to be a subsidiary of the company we know from across the Pond. In Europe, the brand we witnessed takes a Scottish argyle heritage and plays up the separates with bright colors…and terrific neutral basics. Themes like "Yellow Submarine" "British Boy Scout" and "Around the World in 80 Days" set the summery MO.

We loved a lot of what we saw…particularly the bright prints in collaboration with the British print house Liberty, and the over the rainbow tropical and strong hues... perky not weird. And in comn=bos not typical but aesthetically pleasing.

White denim and comfortable chinos are handsome…and fit well for men---not the low waist, dropped crotch very tapered leg we saw at a lot of booths that are very tough for most male body types to pull off without looking ridiculous...being an androgynous silhouette, worthy of David Bowie's Berlin days.

NOT HERE---not to attitude, rolled up trousers but we think for an effect to show the socks.


Long sleeve tops with tricolor horizontal stripes with sleeves that beg to be rolled up, vests with thick buttons in solid tones, and pullovers, golf style with argyle patterns,

Plaid madras blazers in spring colors…and some nautically natty navy blue single breast casual ones.

Youthful in tone, but not a line dedicated to the “Youthquake”---pants and shirts were fitted on the mannequins, showing bold colored socks and chukka boots in neutrals and a surprising sea turquoise blue.



FYI: Now owned, since 2008, by the international clothing/lifestyle Falke ---who make the some of the most dapper lightweight knits for men who own their own yachts or aspire to…and yes, another label we did not have time to see. We know Falke by their fab hosiery for women.