EMBRYOLISSE LABORATOIRES® THREE CUSTOM COLOR SPECIALISTS, KETT, LUMINESS AIR®, KISSABLE COUTURE

TOP PRODUCTS: THE MAKEUP SHOW: NY 2009
The Metropolitan Pavilion, West 18th Street, Chelsea
May 17th, 18th 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
Product Images form Company websites

Trolling the aisles is always a fun thing at The Makeup Show. You never know whom you will meet.

COSMIX SCHOOL of MAKEUP ARTISTRY (Christina Mills/Artist)




TOP PICKS;

IMHO: the pharmacies, and the beauty/skincare chains of the planet that don’t carry EMBROYLISSE LABORATOIRES’ products are brain dead.

Every professional makeup artist that breathes- has the Lait-Crème Concentrè in their bag of magic tools and cosmetics- squeezing the familiar blue/white tube at every fashion show/backstage event we have ever been too. Seriously. No matter the makeup/maquillage company sponsoring the show.




















TIM KOST AND THE TWINS





Because “…the models insist on it, ” according to the jovial Timothy M. Kost who is the Prez of Embroylisse USA Inc. (and a potential BFF-love his attitude).

This original “24 -Hour Miracle Cream $25” does it all…cleans, removes makeup spackle with ease, moisturizes without the oil slick, and also works as a primo make-up base primer. In France…it is like toothpaste and red wine…a household staple. For drier skin, the richer Embryoderme® Crème Vitaminè $40…also multi-tasks similarly.

So what’s new?

The Lotion Micellar (No Rinse Make-Up Remover $30) that gently and key, key, key…non toxically (cornflower, chamomile, witch hazel) removes all that stubborn, transfer resistant makeup-including stay put mascara- we’ll be slapping on during the summer months ---leaving our visage toned but not dried out like alcohol based potions.

And we use the new Crème De Soin Exfoliante (Exfoliating Cream $32) when we’re really gritty—though it’s “delicate” enough to use everyday, aided by micro-beads packed with Vitamins E and F.

We also love the Stick Protecteur Lèvres (Lip Protection Stick $12) that kept our puckers feeling normal during a looonnnggg mountain trek…when we are usually pealing off the chapped parts (lovely) after awhile.















Embryolisse-the name is a mouthful (after all it was founded in the 1950’s by a physician…not an advertising/marketing person). But the collection is really exceptional. and more than lives up to it’s motto: Sincere, Simple, Efficient.

INFO including Store Locator EMBRYOLISSE

Three Custom Color Specialists is the go to company for worshippers of discontinued colors that have a cult following---as they are the masters of custom blended formulas.

The pros are also fans as the extensive palette compatible offerings guarantee an exact mix/match for any skin tone…a must under the scrutiny of HD cameras.


There’s a ready to wear line too. In fact, at The Makeup Show…the blew out of the booth best seller ---actually it sold out so we couldn’t try it---was the Light and Dark Clarifying Pencils according to Chad Hayduk, a happy Co-founder of Three Custom Color Specialists. . Used to line the inner rims of the eyes…the cosmetic is an “instant” brightener…that “pops the eye and highlights under the brow bone. “


The pencils also do triple duty as a sleek concealer and lip line re-shaper/eraser …the later use rockin' a popular makeup trend for Fall 2009-of muted smackers that flies in the face of all those painful to look at and get, blowup lips via injections that dominated certain visages for years.


KETT COSMETICS was founded by a former MAC Cosmetics artist- Sheila McKenna…and its air brush “Kett Jett” is a portable air brush compressor completed by two different sized airbrush stylus wands. We’ve written about the company 2 years ago. when we fell in love with all things airbrush in general.






When we got to the oversized booth…the Makeup Artist of television’s The Jimmy Fallon Show was stacking up several Fixx Crème Makeup compacts in assorted skin tone colors. This waterproof camouflage crème serves up sheer to full coverage, is enriched with Vitamins A, C, E, licorice root extract and jojoba ---to combat spots as well as hide them. We liked how it felt on our skin…and actually use it where we need it…as it smoothes on easily with our fingers and isn’t heavy.
KETT COSMETICS


Talk about friendly! The Texan populated Luminess Air® booth was a highlight of the show…we found ourselves relaxing as the bubbly makeup artists Brandy Perez and Marc Harvey demonstrated for us “the first line bringing out the makeup artist in yourself….” aka an airbrush cosmetic Luminess Air® system for the retail market. Sold in kit form, that comes with a professional quality compressor and stylus PLUS liquid foundations (a Matte or more moisturizing Satin version)...and instructions. We thought to ourselves…yeah, this will work.

We had Perez demo the gizmo on us…and the fine mist coverage was flawless, the foundation didn’t accentuate the crinkles under our eyes, and the color match (foundation and blush on our cheeks bones) was really natural looking…not caked on. Though the whole thing took like three minutes to apply…our face lasted for 12 hours…staying put through the night. Yes.

Practically sold out when we got there…was the top of the line Platinum Kit…that comes with a tanning stylus for the perfect faux tan.

Available online …at about one half to a third less than other airbrush systems we saw for sale at the show. There might be legit reasons for the price differential but we think the average consumer will def go for this.

There is an Oprah Effect and there is a MICHELLE OBAMA EFFECT. Trust us…check out the stock price of J. Crew!!!

Kissable Couture got a major bump from Oprah and the First Lady who uses the lip gloss probably---the sold out “First Lady.” Another Nude toned gloss -“Honesty” sold out too.








The glosses are “a line about women and is wearable by everyone,” the sales rep (name????)…told us. “It’s not sticky or greasy and there’s no white residue. The texture is amazing…and moisturizing with a high gloss.”


The colors are “innovative” and plentiful option wise, including flattering burgundy, pink and purple tones.

FUN FACT: Co- Founders are KEISHA NASH-WHITAKER– the Oscar winning actor Forest Whitaker’s wife…and makeup artist AJ CRIMSON.

TOP PICKS: ALCONE AT THE MAKEUP SHOW

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
And Product Images from the Alcone website

Already there were sellouts…when we arrived at the 4th annual The Makeup Show: New York…so our ability to try stuff out personally- was limited at times. In a good way though.

Our first stop was at the busy Alcone booth. ..where we asked…”what’s sold out?”

“WE’RE SOLD OUT OF EVERYTHING”

And indeed the cupboard looked bare.












Alcone for those not knowing…is like a Grand Central Station for makeup products and tools…with a bricks and mortar locale (322 West 49th Street NYC)…and a thriving e-commerce biz. Makeup pros, clued in natives, and divas of all ilk go there for unsurpassed customer service and hard to find brands that hail from all-over the globe.

WHAT’S SOLD WELL AT THE SHOW

Alcone carries cult favorites like the much acclaimed (and sold out)FastLash™” (a genius white polyester fiber lengthener to use between mascara coats….. we use!!!!

















plus Skindinavia skin care,/makeup prolongers and Ben Nye and France's Visiora foundations and blush.



LipChic Sealer that renders all lipsticks smudge proof--- also vanished. We couldn’t even dab a swab to test on the back of our hands.
























The Kryolan’s Dermacolor Concealer Palette was also hot item.





















THE LATEST…
Like a favored child…the guys were most proud of the new, patented and trademarked adjustable makeup palette holder,






with slide in/slide out makeup trays (scoop ins)…twist and turn ease….and a wrist attachment and/or with a clip for a carabine. IMHO…given how well it was selling, some company is going to come out with the exact snap-in sized makeup collection.

FAMOUS PARTING WORDS

“We will be restocked tomorrow”
We were channeling Dorothy--- like a scene outta our trip to the Emerald City in the Wizard of OZ…we
will Be Back.

MICHAEL DEVELLIS: THE POWDER GROUP’s HEAD HONCHO

PLUS: THE MAKEUP SHOW FOUNDER & EDITOR ON MAKEUP MAGAZINE

The Makeup Show-The Metropolitan Pavilion
May 18th, 2009 West 18th Street, NYC

WORDS, IMAGES JUDITH ECOCHARD






During the 4th annual The Makeup Show last week…we saw Michael Devellis out of the corner of our eyeballs, here and there, in a whirl of constant motion…

No wonder…this buzzin’ show with vendor sellouts (a later clip), cutting edge makeup product intros and staples, packed seminars and business forums, and in shape bods done up in spectacular special effects glory strolling the aisles…

Well, the time just flew.

MEHRON

Mercifully, we caught a few minutes with Devellis in mid flight.

And our conversational theme?

INSPIRATION and SUPPORT.

“For me,” the busy Devellis noted, “it’s what people are feeling,..people are passionate about their craft…and they need a community.”

Makeup artists “are wondering what’s next,” Devellis observed with regards to the weak economy. “…If you feel you are on your own and alone as a freelancer…you can create a support system…we do at the Powder Group.”

“The business becomes stronger….the economy can empower you, strengthening industry relationships…creating energy of support and inspiration.”

NICE.

INFO THE POWDER GROUP

WHAT ELSE: KORRES NATURAL PRODUCTS

Devellis actually WALKED US OVER to the Korres booth. Well, we thought ---this must be something!

We have been to Athens, Greece awhiles back---- where Korres, a native brand RULES. It is a natural line (no synthetics) of skin/body/hair treatments originally based on the rich moisturizer powers of olives, the astringent properties of pomegranate, and the pore brightening wild rose... etc (makes sense). It has greatly expanded the number of SKU’s with makeup too…and a new “green” line of EcoCert® goodies –the Materia Herba collection.

So

What Devellis uses (and we thought he looked amazing---sans makeup we add… and probably no sleep either) is the new Materia Herba Anti-Aging Cream ($46) at Sephora only!

Note to chemical avoidance types…these products are WITHOUT Parabens
- Sulfates
- Synthetic Dyes
- Petro-Chemicals
- Phthalates
- GMO
- Triclosan.

























BUT What sold like hotcakes----the 99% Natural Silicone Free Face Primer ($28)…even the demo bottle had run out! THAT"S RIGHT---in a room full of primers...GONE IN A NEW YORK MINUTE!

Why: It smoothes out the skin (lines, wrinkles, pores), and keeps foundation looking fresh for hours,. Without that waxy feeling...so we're told...we cannot wait to try!

INFO: KORRES

At Sephora's and Toll Free 1-888-6-KORRES
Korres: SOHO 110 Wooster Street Tel 212 219-0683 and Korres: BROOKLYN Tel 718 643 9435

SMASHBOX COSMETICS & DAVIS FACTOR’S-PASSION FOR MAKEUP

THE MAKEUP SHOW, NEW YORK

METROPOLITAN PAVILION, West 18th Street, Chelsea

MAY 18th, 2009

4:30 PM

Words, Images Judith Ecochard, and Product Images from the Smashbox Website

It was close to quittin’ time when we met Davis Factor, co-founder with his brother Dean…of the Smashbox Photo Studios and Smashbox Cosmetics.




Smashbox Cosmetics put the use of primer (Photo Finish Foundation Primer) on the map IMHO…as a means “of perfecting the skin.”






And at The Makeup Show. the company found great reception from the pros for their High Definition Healthy FX Foundation ($38) and Liquid Concealer ($18)…both “nutrition for the skin” that revitalizes and treats one’s visage via genius time released moisturizing formula.







Of course, the buildable coverage is excellent---minimizing imperfections for a “soft-focus” natural appearance. After all, the goods got to work.













Another biggie attendees scooped up---was the Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder ($59) an 11 amino acids and peptides, 48 mineral packed treatment/cosmetic that multi-tasks delivering anti-aging benefits as well as radiant coverage…via a kabuki style brush for flawless application.













These in demand products hit the spot in a manner of speaking, given the feedback the Cosmetic side of things gets from the Studio side of the biz…and from the makeup artists and photographers that labor there.

“We very accessible, very customer and service oriented, “ Factor told us. ‘We’re an ego –less company created out of the Studio.”

WE LOVE: How the Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder is oil/ talc/paraben FREE!!!

SMASHBOX COSMETICS-THE PHILOSOPHY AND THE REALITIES




















Davis Factor, still full of energy after what must have been a 48 hour work day, is an engaging guy who feels strongly about “getting out there with the artists.”

---Lucky us since not too many company founders are so hands on about the makeup in these days of corporate takeovers.

“We have a lot of information (about products)…and get it out of you guys, the makeup artists.”

“It’s a coming together for conceptual ideas about the products,” Factor added. “Smashbox gives out a feeling of being very approachable…as it’s about art, creativity and having the freedom.”

“We work with designers too…we’re very proactive.”

With regards to the universal appeal of Smashbox Cosmetics, Factor pointed out that “we use a different girl every shoot…of every ethnicity. “

“Everyone is a Smashbox girl,” Factor noted. ”We are always changing it up…it’s not about the celebrity endorsement.”

What’s also très cool is the price points and ”value” for the consumers…especially via the specially priced, multi product kits available at Sephora and online.

INFO: SMASHBOX COSMETICS

DANY SANZ: CREATOR AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF MAKE UP FOREVER

25 YEARS IN THE COSMETICS BUSINESS-A CONVERSATION

THE MAKEUP SHOW: New York,

May 18th, 2009

Metropolitan Pavilion, West 18th Street, NYC

5PM








Words, Images Judith Ecochard

An artist by training (and certainly by sensibility), Dany Sanz was kind enough o give us a sit down after her busy day at The Makeup Show… and what we learned was an extensive trip to China. Ending the day before. Whew.

Celebrating 25 years in the business, MAKE UP FOREVER: PROFESSIONAL is a line we learned about as students in Paris (way back in the day). And we added to our list of what the French get right…right up their with red wine.

We even remember when it first launched at Barney’s on Madison Avenue as all the drag queens loved, loved loved the false eyelashes and pigmented eyeshadows in a rainbow of saturated colors.

We told Ms. Sanz this and she was amused. TG.

Fititngly, WE raved about the new HD Concealer that we previewed the day prior. “Concealer is very important for the HD cameras,” Sanz noted….”but it is difficult to find without drying.”

“It must be invisible and ‘against’ wrinkles,”

Accordingly, the Make Up Forever lab worked on the HD Concealer for three years…”and we feel happy with it.”

“We tested the product on mature ladies to see really if the concealer has good results.”

Sanz also commented on the silicone applicator--- that “ an exact amount comes out with each little turn…then after each use you can clean it with alcohol and it dries.”

“We found a solution to make everyone happy ….as it’s okay for the realities of daylight and phenomenal for the cameras.”

YEAH

SELLING THE BRAND
Sanz noted that Make Up Forever uses no celebrities to market itself…but “you have to prove it…with products ladies will love.”

“Now ladies are educated and know much more.” For Make Up Forever, “they trust it because the products are good. (FAB-IMHO)
“We want that kind of customer.”

DEVELOPMENT












“We need two to three years for new products. We work with chemists…and check everything with friends and family so the formula(s) is perfect. Then comes the color …(and consideration of skin tones for different ethnic groups),,,and then packaging. “




HD AQUA PRODUCTS

To get the color, texture and pigmentation right for the HD Cameras…”it is really, really difficult.”


And the new waterproof Aqua line---AQUA EYES (5 new shades) and
AQUA LIP (pencil in 6 new shades)

the revamped AQUA BLACK ultra-pigmented creamy cease proof eyeshadow with Micronized Iron Oxide Mineral Pigments…

and the AQUA SMOKY LASH mascara with special nylon fibers to add length and a unique brush for exceptional root to tip coverage

“are extremely popular in Japan, China and the Mid East where it’s humid and hot. “

GOOD MOVE----MAKE UP FOREVER partnered with Mercedes–Benz Fashion Week Swim in Miami this July as the “it” maquillage for the “perfect splash of color.”
No wonder this makeup artists’ brand has blown out beyond cult status.

MERCI.

INFO: MAKE UP FOREVER

MAC COSMETICS’ GORDON ESPINET on TREND: FALL 2009

MAKEUP LOOKS OF THE NEW YORK, MILAN AND PARIS RUNWAY COLLECTIONS

THE MAKEUP SHOW, West 18th Street, NYC- METROPOLIITAN PAVILION, MAY 17th, 2009
4PM








Words, Images Judith Ecochard

The engaging GORDON ESPINET-VP of MAC COSMETICS- was a keynote speaker at the latest The Makeup Show: New York…dishing all the hot looks for Autumn/Winter ‘09--as conjured up by the talented MAC team for select RTW shows.

With the philosophy that “…makeup is all about beauty and experimenting with different things…not to work to much with pre-conceived ideas of what it should be…”---Espinet et al -formulated four Autumnal themes,: LID VISCIOUS, WHO’S THAT GIRL, NEW ROMANTICS and the SCULPTURE CLUB.



All looks are easily translatable to reality and will…no doubt…last well into Spring 2010.







The themes were customized for each designer’s runway romp of course---while “adjusting the look for skin tone and model features.”

LID VISCIOUS
With oversized screens projecting model images, Espinet’s talk started off with a snapshot from the Italian designers D-Squared show. With eyes darkened and glistening via MAC V Line Pencils and Grease Paint Sticks… “This is for a woman that dares…a young Hollywood type that stays up all night.”



At Karl Langerfeld’s Fall 2009 show, the “Warrior Woman” face was one of “hyper perfect” with the product LIP ERASE ---used to do just that…accentuating strong lines around the eyes.

For Preen, model’s eyebrows were bleached (some have them that way anyway) for a “reverse smoke, manufactured hardened cyberistic “ vibe. And for a hard, androgynous rockabilly look, a white pencil rims the inside of eyes.



The Betty Boop visage that fluttered the Zac Posen outing came courtesy of MAC #35 eyelashes.
















WHO’S THAT GIRL?
Inspired by 80’s fashion that blanketed the runways, 80’s poppin’ colors are “over the top and not afraid to be makeup.”

For a “Lady Danger” at Erdem…mouths stood out- “like fabric pasted on a face” …with individualized lipcolor stirred up from a mix up of foundation and neon pigments from the MAC PRO line.











At Emanuel Ungaro, a hyper-perfected makeup worked with groomed eyebrows, and bright lips (important!) using Morange lipstick shade.












Rose Petal graced the shiny kissers at Antonio Berandi while at Alberta Ferretti, a magenta pencil (Girl About Town) in combo with slightly tinted eyes ---kept the focus on the bold lips.















An ”imperfect innocence” (natural, perfect skin) at Giles and a MAC Pro’s purple “Emphasize” highlighted the lips...and at Luca Luca.















NEW ROMANTICS

This is a look for the young or Tilda Swinton’s amongst us. As Espinet noted, “this trend is like an airbrush effect…everything is soft…no hard edges.”

Metallic eyeshadows (liquidy glistening)…sometimes with the color washed all the way up to the brow (Ossie Clark) prevent this visage from being a snooze.

At Matthew Williamson an elegant sensuality came through in the smoky eye.
















And the natural look at Missoni took TWO HOURS!!!!...”using products strategically for the no makeup look.”

Donna Karan saw the acclaimed Charlotte Tilbury employ a silver metal pigment…to a murmur of yeahs in the every seat taken, audience.
















THE SCULPTURE CLUB

“There are eight areas of the face,” according to Espinet …so “it’s really about sculpturing the face…bone structure and shape…exaggerating it, not correcting.”

“This is my favorite trend.” OURS TOO.

Charlotte Tilbury once again worked her magic…this time at Chloe where “each model was given emphasis of what was there.” Lip Erase (again) kept the focus on the face’s planes.
















At Giambattista Valli, an airbrush like, “fake natural” skin with “super harsh cheekbones” was striking with white inner rimmed eyes and exaggerated batwings/slashes of color up top. A similar technique at Allessandro Acqua rocked the “sexy, pumped and amped look.”

The ultimate bone structure also shined through at Blumarine with exaggerated eyebrows.



















CONCLUSION:
Reiterating his mantra, “…don’t do what is expected and predictable ---“like a soft neutral warm eye” (yawn) …Espinet got us thinking We asked him about treatment type products…and his answer:

“We keep our MAC world on what we do best.” Remarking that some primer type products “have some treatment” Espinet was really big on the composition of makeup itself.

“Technology is really helping us…in the last ten years, makeup has moved fast.”

“Make sure you are out there touching and feeling… and keeping up with what’s going on in technology,” he told the rapt audience.

NEW: The gel based STUDIO SCULPT FOUNDATION, CONCEALERS, PRIMERS ---for medium to high coverage. We dabbed some on back of hands…and were impressed with the satiny texture (moist but not greasy), 'spreadability' and the color options.

INFO: MAC COSMETICS

HIGH SCHOOL OF FASHION INDUSTRIES: AWARD TO TIM GUNN & STUDENT FASHION SHOW

PRESENTED BY
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

225 West 24th Street, NYC

May 21st, 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard

A packed auditorium abuzz wih parents, teachers, friends, students, industry and press types were treated to a professionally pizazzed RTW catwalk romp by the ebullient seniors of the HIGH SCHOOL OF FASHION INDUSTRIES,

The evening's festivities, a fundraiser and ceremony in a matter of speaking---- was pulled together by Robert di Mauro-the Chair of the Advisory Board (who’s dad went to the school 70 years ago) and co-Chair Patti Y. Carpenter.

SPECIAL THANKS: Liz Clairborne Inc. who generously underwrote the evening’s scholarship event.





THE SHOW: There is no place like home when it’s not Kansas- as an adorable assortment of muchkin sized children started off the runway eye candy with Wizard of Oz inspired outfits.











Then the seniors, with perfect maquillage (courtesy of Lancome), strutted their stuff and clothing that they designed, sewed and modeled. THEMSELVES!!!























TAKE-AWAYS:

Nary a seam was out of place, nor thread dangling, the fabrics looked expensive, but probably weren’t (budgets being what they are)…and some of the detailed constructions (corsets, draping, ruching) were expertly rendered! We know, we sat right up front!

Attire categorized as sportswear, denim, swimwear, lingerie, evening (short, long) and Bridal were all well done---and we think indicative of what these kids would wear---as well as adults.

We loved the fact that the so overused Boyfriend look and that shredded, ripped denim that hogs up the print magazines this month…were absent. Really glad.

High waist fitted silhouettes worked for the gals.


Even the guys had dark rinse denim- with the proper dose of slouchy swagger without looking sloppy.

Trend alert: Metallic sheen swimsuits! Paisleys/Boho/Animal prints, Wide ties, vests and shorter jackets for guys---for evening== NOT schoolboy shrunken though.

And yes, clothes are flattering on all body types. TG.

a happy bride













ADDED PLUS: The tunes/soundtrack…kept the beat without blowing out our eardrums.

NICE TOUCH: Project Runway Winner Christian Siriano gave a funny and spot on intro to the “quite cute” - Tim Gunn.


















Accepting his award, the always gracious Gunn started his remarks recounting his experience on the Today Show with five HSFI students. For him, it was an up close encounter that had him “…marveled at their character, who they are as people…and their intelligence.”


Fittingly, Gunn noted that this was “easily one of the best graduation ceremonies” (excluding his alma mater Parsons) that he has been to. We’re talking colleges here too.

























Plus: he emphasized “what will be important. in your career…will be those qualities of character.”

And like the mom of a nine year old who gushed to Gunn---in an airport---that her kid loves Project Runway....and she does too because “ it shows that hard work pays off and teaches you cheaters never prosper…”


















A certain amount of tenacity is imperative too …

‘MAKE IT WORK’





WE LOVED:

TEACHERS GOT THE BIGGEST APPLAUSE WHEN INTRODUCED AT THE END OF THE SHOW!!!!!!





CHATTING WITH ROSS BURTON (AGAIN LUCKY US!!!) THE MAKE UP ARTIST (OPRAH!) AND INSPIRATION FOR STUDENTS….seriously….he told us how he met with students 2x this past month…and the first time, one student raised their hand when queried “who wants to be a makeup artist?”

Well, now, many, many hands went up (just prior to the show)…when posed the same question by Burton…who with his colleague Kerry Diamond, VP-Lancome---was moved to tears by the show.

And yes, the makeup- using the breath of Lancome’s colorful collections on the market---had those kids looking great…

Ross Burton, Kerry Diamond,
Robert di Mauro
CONGRATS!!!!








SPECIAL THANKS: ORIGINS, ESTESS LAUNDER COMPANIES, PHEAR CREATIONS, BARON FRANCOIS, LANCOME, LUGO, SMARTWATER, RICHARD RENDA from TOTALLY COOL.

KEVIN-JAMES BENNETT/MAKE UP FOREVER: PROFESSIONAL

Kevin-James Bennett with the new HD Concealer



THE MAKEUP SHOW NEW YORK 2009
Metropolitan Pavilion West 18th Street, Chelsea

May 17th, 2009
Words, Images Judith Ecochard



Lucky us, we got a break time-wise when we walked past the perpetually busy Make Up Forever Professional booth…as Director of Pro Business Development & Artist Relations and the go to guy for the 411--- Kevin-James Bennett had a free moment.

Having chatted with him at last year's Blogger’s preview, we new that the big hit would be HD something---as in Make Up Forever’s amazing HD Invisible Cover Foundation, an oil-free lightweight liquid formula- that sold out of several shades at last year’s MakeUp Show. (FYI: This is the product that helps A-listers like Meryl Streep and Jennifer Aniston positively glow).

So we asked, “…what’s new?”

MAKE UP FOREVER'S glorious palette











And got a succinct reply, “…the HD CONCEALER and (HD) ELIXIR.”

“We’ve been investing a lot of technology in this category…high definition needs to be addressed with artist specific products to help their work look better.”

The new HD Elixir increases moisture levels by 520%, after 15 minutes according to Bennett…and is a lifesaver for makeup artists who have clients that “NEED TO LOOK GOOD NOW.”

This “immediate response product” (a non-oily, non-sticky serum) launched at this Show… as Bennett reminded us, Make Up Forever focuses on makeup artists needs.


But lets face it, pun intended “…this product (HD INVISIBLE COVER FOUNDATION) looks that unbelievably good for the camera…how the heck is it going to look on the street?” ---Bennett noted.

For Sure. Awesome,

The never ending checkout line...






What we thought was THE BEST NEW PRODUCT WE EXPERIENCED AT THE SHOW---isn’t even available until late summer. The HD CONCEALER!!!!!

The concealers were filled "by hand for the show” Bennett clued us in...by the MUFE laboratory in France..that's how hot off the press this want it NOW product is.

THE WOW FACTOR: HD CONCEALER

The silicone applicator is unique (and easily cleaned/dried)…and with a twist the liquid product feeds up through to the tip. Bennett then put a dab on the back of our hand, patted it in with barely any pressure…and then told us to watch---as “the concealer sets on its own and remains flexible.”

Well, seeing is believing, or in this case not seeing…as this miracle liquid covered our skin “brilliantly”…it really looked like we had nothing on after about a minute. But it def. covered.

Truly, we were gushing “OMG” like a gazillion times.

Kevin-James Bennett with Make Up Artist James Vincent



BRAVO---and no doubt this product will be a major hit---and is needed as discussions with makeup artists/attendees outside the facility conjured up seemingly everyone’s quest for the perfect concealer.

OTHER HINTS:

We also touched on the use of the finishing HD Microfinish Powder, a 100% Mineral Silica Powder that “appears whitish but has no pigment in it” …and is good for oilier skins. This product sets foundation and slightly mattifies - leaving a glowing, "soft focus...translucent” finish (according to a press release versus “transparent” as in clear).

TRENDS:

Lastly we asked Bennett what look he was loving for Fall. “A really strong lashline…tons of mascara…natural faux lashes,”

“We’re moving to a 1940’s realm…for a more architectural look. (Think Rita Hayworth and Katherine Hepburn in those fab black&white films).

“Enough with the smoky eye…and everything is matte.” (FYI Including nails!)

Bennett favors “clean, sculpting colors…significant lines…and kick ass lashes.”

AMEN.


INFO: MAKE UP FOREVER

THE MAKEUP SHOW: New York 2009 & A CHAT WITH ROSS BURTON

PRODUCED BY THE POWDER GROUP & METROPOLITAN PAVILION



AN INDUSTRY ONLY RESOURCE AND EDUCATIONAL GATHERING OF TOP ARTISTS, COSMETIC COMPANIES and SERVICES FOR THE PROFESSIONAL


PLUS: A CONVERSATION WITH ROSS BURTON...OPRAH's MAKE UP ARTIST OF CHOICE



Metropolitan Pavilion, West 18th Street NYC

PART I

May 17th and 18th 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard

We love this tradeshow---the access and the conversations that ensue, the up close, fingers in /brush dabbing/spraying product testing we subject our body parts to, the creativity of the makeup artists (special effects YEAH!!!), and the ability to follow-up on what’s new, what’s selling, the latest technology and the industry’s successful efforts to embrace the Green via healing/natural/organic ingredients and recycled packaging.


MEHRON by JINNY



The seminars, hands-on workshops, and business forums were packed this year…serving up how to’s ---- (fashion and theater makeup looks, HD perfection for the camera, career advice, the latest trends,etc)--- courtesy of the visionaries and expert practitioners like:


the engaging Gordon Espinet-a MAC Cosmetics VP,




Davis Factor, the articulate and passionate founder of Smashbox Photo Studios and Cosmetics,

the artistic dynamo Dany Sanz, Creative and Artistic Director of MAKE UP FOREVER, (and so French-oui oui, we love!)










(a packed seminar)

and the industry’s biggest supporter (IMHO) Michael Devellis…a guy who seemingly makes time for every query while running The Powder Group, a multi-faceted, “one-stop makeup and beauty concierge service and powerhouse resource” that publishes the glossy ON MAKEUP, produces said shows and other professional confabs like The Artist Summit in Miami/Chicago, offers sturdy portable packaging and the latest 9X9 makeup collections as selected by top makeup artists that capture Fall 09 trends(love James Vincent's palette.

Whew.

We covered a lot of ground this year- with exclusive interviews---(to follow). First off, we recount our lengthy (inspiring) chat with one of the main reasons the amazing American icon Oprah Winfrey looks so good (polished, elegant, refreshed and natural…and we doubt she gets a whole lot of sleep)…

ROSS BURTON. Who we might add, is fab looking himself. And FYI: he’s the former Lancome’s National Artistic Director.

“What brought me here is to support Michael and the Powder Group…to keep the spotlight on the makeup artist,” we learned when asked why he came during the television show’s hiatus. (Note: he was carrying a bag of products…but hey, watch Oprah for what gets annointed!!!).

Burton really appreciated how supportive the Makeup Show is for artists…and how important it is for these creative pros to stay updated and encouraged (nurtured in a manner of speaking)…which this event does in heavy doses.

“We are all family but live in different houses.” Burton remarked.

Other comments concerned makeup artists’ recognition… and we agree btw that Red Carpet strollers should credit their maquillage enablers. “It’s all about the great face” let alone that consumers “always want to know” what products celeb types are using. Attainability HELLO---cause we can afford the lipstick…but the gown??? Not in this life.

Professionally speaking, a major point was the observation that…“makeup artistry is a love and a passion,” and for the makeup artists starting out…”makeup is expensive.”

So opportunities to set-up discounts at this tradeshow “keeps the products in the makeup artists’ hands.”







Naturally, we had to gush a little, cuz after all we are human.

The ‘thing’ that meant the most to us in a lot of ways is the believability factor…or what biz types dub “the Oprah Effect.”

Well there is a reason for that! Burton “is always bringing new products into Oprah and HARPO.” (the production house).

And when a goodie receives a positive mention on the show, it’s been vetted and tested every which way to (till) Sunday we think.

“When you say things, you should mean it. Truth is golden…my boss lives with it…I live it everyday.”

Lastly we discussed success…and given the number of people giving Burton hugs ---this industry veteran is a success as defined in many different ways.

“You have the position because you earned it. Luck is preparation.” And always play your "A" game.
AGREED!



MEHRON GALS

THE 2nd ANNUAL BOND BeLowTech & EQUILATERAL 09:02

DESIGN EXHIBITS

SPONSORED BY BOND Studio and the New York Chapter of the Industrial Designers Society of America (ISDA.NYC), SURFACE MAGAZINE, OLIGHTING, AND ISAORA

NEW YORK DESIGN WEEK
MILK STUDIOS and The 414 GALLERY
MEATPACKING DISTRICT INTIATIVE (MPDI)-MAY 17th, 2009

6:00PM

Words by Judith Ecochard
Images from Bond, ISDA: NYC & J. Ecochard

This year’s edition of New York City’s Design Week and the Meatpacking District's Design venues had the frenetic buzz of the granddaddy of all contemporary/industrial design fests---the one in Milan.

It wasn’t just the packed venues serving up engaging exhibits (and cocktails) after the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF) at the Javits Convention Center had closed for the day.

Or the impossibly chic eye candy crowd of New Yorkers, ex pats, Europeans and other international exhibitors who donned their sleekest black attire to see what’s new in product design, fashion and lighting.

For us, it was the intelligent thought that underpins innovative design and architectural mashups---- “reflecting the Meatpacking District’s multi-disciplinary allure,” according to Abe Gurko, producer of MPDI…that had our brain cells all fire up.

We began the picture perfect weather night with a familiar event space, the spacious Milk Gallery Studios-a venue for several NY Fashion Week runway shows. We got there soon after the 6PM start time…and already a crowd was on hand, taking in the ten design project/objects with the intense zeal that reminded us of our undergrad days- when we once engaged in daily intellectual discourses on IDEAS.

Curiously, that may not have been the point of this exhibit--- for an oversized placard smack dab at the entrance proclaimed:

“Over-analyzing things tends to be
the natural reaction in increasingly
complicated times. The pressure
to fix problems hinders the need
to rethink problems."

OKAY


BOND BeLowTech is a multi-discipline design studio founded by the congenial and clearly smarter than us---Joe Doucet. (Fashion Note: he was wearing a Patrick McGoohan Number Six style elegant jacket in beige)

As soon as we scored a glass of wine (hey, it was a LONG day), we wandered around the space and actually admired the “fundamental application of design and thought”...that “address life’s complexities through a lens of simplicity and invention.”

Our favorite object, the BLACKBOX SMS PRINTER,(pic above), is a credit card receit type portable device that prints out a double ‘sales slip’ copy of IM or text messages via a plug into a phone or laptop. With the quip “…a paperless society sounds good only on paper…” we envision gazillions of cheating spouses, boy/girlfriends, and conveyors of illegal substances now having to worry about hard copy evidence of their bonnes mots---previously only available by legal subpoena.

We also admired the HAND DRIVING GLOVES by Doucet that allows a visible one finger salute…thereby “allowing the motorists to tell others to get a grip without losing their grip.".












Matthias Kaeding sourced Neolithic times for his CERAMIC COOKING KNIVES shaped liked Stone Age tools. Depending on the task, the basic multi-tasking utensils can be turned for sharper edges. And the knife will certainly slip by metal detectors…our concern, actually even though we admired the utilitarian genius of it.

INFO BOND STUDIO




A short stroll away, we arrived at the 414 Gallery (414 West 14th Street) space that conjured up a rewind back to jam packed Rave events---except, of course with a better dressed, better smelling crowd, a few less smiley faces…and a DJ was spinning toe tap-pers at a few decibels less.

But there were neon blue snowcones---that could’ve had us glowing in the dark.

A visual and design experience, we enjoyed/admired the exhibits of modern furniture, lighting, ceramics, and cutting edge fashion. There was also a section devoted to Brazil from IDEA/BRASIL with our fav-Havianas flip-flops on display.







Other highlights were Jeff Jenkins X&O Nesting Tables and Ana Linares' Velora Candle Holders.

Very Cool…and we hope accessibly priced if put into production. Which should quell the opines of design snobs questioning the innovative aspects of it all. Gee, if no one ever uses any of it with some kind of ease …what’s the point IMHO.














STREET LOUNGE-OUTDOOR SEATING BY ROYAL BOTANIA
Spice Market Square, 13th & 9th Avenue
Image Judith Ecochard

RADIANCY™ 's LATEST FOR “SMART SKIN SOLUTIONS”

The company that created the wildly successful no!no! Hair™ removal device gets our attention when it comes to new product intros.

Another recent winner, for example- is the effective no!no! Skin- an at home “professional” hand-held device that treats mild to moderate acne without the usual drying effects. Employing patented LHE® technology, (like derms) no!no! Skin combines the healing powers of light and heat to heal and eradicate mild to moderate conditions.

And there’s no fear of overdose or any contradictions.












So we were curious as to what the latest Radiancy™ gizmo had to offer…the no!no! Face Trainer™ for facial rejuvenation.

We had personal intro to the Hannibal Lecter like facial mask that straps on easily….

In combination with a series of facial exercises (demoed on a DVD, YouTube , or in the instruction book)… performed 10 minutes a day, for a month, then maintenance of 2x a week…no!no! Face Trainer is supposed to smooth out wrinkles and sagging for a younger, toner visage.

New habits take awhile to latch on to. Warning.

Testing it out…our jaw kinda ached from the exercises…but since the effects, if any are accumulative, we didn’t see any improvement for the first week we used it. We figure that like getting built up cheekbones via fillers or implants…a natural lifted look is achieved.

Apparently all “44 bilaterally symmetrical muscles of the face and neck” are exercised and thus toned…resulting in a lift to sag zones like the jaw line, under the eyes, the cheeks, and forehead.

We doubt botoxed out types can use the no!no! Face Trainer as some requirements to get the full effect require moving the facial muscles of the most popular areas to get those temporary paralyzing injections in.

The no!no! Face Trainer coats $199… not cheap by any means for something users will need to use for at least a suggested 4 weeks …and will not see immediate results. Plus, it’ s not a gee whiz device…and it requires active, daily participation that takes longer than flossing one’s teeth.





Even if the long - term effects are striking according to internal studies.

It’s certainly cheaper than a facelift and for exercise people, it’s just one more “resistance training” routine...that the motivated will stick with.

For before and after pictures of male and female participants, check out the Website.

Words, Judith Ecochard

MACY’S W & M FALL/WINTER 2009 PRESS PREVIEW

“COME TOGETHER”

WEST 34TH STREET, NYC

3:00PM, May 13th, 2009
















Words, Images Judith Ecochard


Twice a year, Macy’s flagship store stages a press preview with select merchandise set to hit the retail racks. Attire is for women and men and is attractively displayed in a spacious penthouse. secluded from the bustling floors belonging to the largest department store in the world.

The staging area includes a planted terrazzo terrace with drop-dead views of the Empire State building.

Led by VP’s Russell Orlando and Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s fashion direction focuses on key fashion concepts for Fall---like the popular plaid/tartan prints, all shades of purple,








the quilted puffer nylon vests, motorcycle jackets, cardigan sweaters, sleeveless sheaths, leggings, boyfriend and skinny jeans etc. The store wisely offers their customers severally interpretations-of these looks--- at different price points…thereby casting a wide net to reel in consumers.







An example of this value/price combo is the Motorcycle Jacket , for example---is the edgy (Buffalo), the cool sophisticated (9 West) and the upscale clean (Calvin Klein).









Given the economic climes, and retail realities of shoppers shopping the competition ---a H&M or Target- for affordable fashion…Macy’ ramped up the exclusives too.

Anticipated top labels like Rachel Rachel Roy, Desiguar (a more accessibly priced Custo Barcelona like label from Spain that Fischelis discovered in London), and its own private label INC and INC Concepts (hip gals/ guys separates) Tasso Elba (men’s modern classic/career), Alfani (bags/shoes), the Charter Club (career women), CR and American Rag (guy’s bumped up denim lifestyle brands).







When we walked into the atelier set-up, we were bowled over by the snazzy mannequins outfitted in color block textiles sew into fitted dresses, coats…well really “ art pieces” of the Desiguar label. This entire line, according to Nicole, “is so special…and it’s totally the right time for it.”

We agree, as the looks we saw are a wonderful fusion of craft, bohemian, and streetwear -all at a “contemporary price point.”

Details like bold vintage buttons, unique trims, and amusing mashups of contrasting fabric squares give the eye catching attire-- heavy doses of sophistication. We can see even less fashion forward types opting for a punchy piece (a blouse for example), to add a bit of flourish to their basic wardrobe…New York black.

From a fitted outerwear- to fun harem denim cut “Jeans Vaquero” …this label has it going. A store in NY’s Soho just opened too---which should actually help Macy’s by familiarizing shoppers with this new to the USA company.

Bumping up it’s offerings---Macy’s Impulse RTW area now includes contemporary labels that make the store a one stop destination shopping experience.

In demand brands such as Francis,












French Connection, Laundry, Betsey Johnson,






See by Chloe, Adrienne Landau, Vivienne Tam, Armani Jeans, Barbour, Boss Orange, Ben Sherman, Iceberg (these four for men ), Just Cavalli, John Galliano,










Liquid (from California), and an amazing denim line Miss Me (the grommets and crystal back pocket embellishments are terrific and priced under $100!).







Rachel Rachel Roy is also generating big buzz as her chic modern outerwear, coquette frocks, plush hand bags, open toe shoes/boots and jewelry line is exclusive…and available in select Macy’s stores beginning in the summer..







A lot of posh elements from Roy’s main (pricier) line are here at lower costs---including painterly prints, . over sized multi strand chain necklaces and bracelets, and the dress tailored to look like a skirt/blouse combo.


























































For guys, there is a big push on Macy’s INC private label. For the Concepts line, we liked the gray military inspired jacket with nice pocket details.







We wanted the Cambodian jacket –with nifty embroidered patches---to be made for gals (us). Both are priced under $200…far less than some better known labels ---but not stinting on quality.

Macy’s is also “getting behind the cardigan”—including dapper shawl collar and v-neck button down versions.







INC Denim has a “more relaxed attitude” and is a “T shirt driven line”….with cool button downs in plaid, bumped up with a bit of Western swagger.









“A lot of bells and whistles for not a lot of money,” is obviously at work in the v-neck tees with edgy graphics and inks.











And the two new collections CR (“a take down from the Club Room) and American Rag--affordable slouchy denim driven line.







We liked the vintage vibe of CR’s plaid, washed/lived in plaid shirts and the poppin’ color palette of the knits.






American Rag nailed the men’s motorcyle jacket must have with pocket details…polished off with “T shirt” scarves in that Mid East pattern that endures.












Tasso Elba---is for the working guy with style. We liked the vests and a grey knit jacket that travels effortlessly.













ACCESSORIES…

Guys are hiking onto the alpine trend with sturdy leather lace ups and kickers at great price points (top pics-Kenneth Cole’s sample and Calvin Klein’s side zip boots).

Women’s styles for shoes match up with the smorgasbord of the clothing selections…like never out of style- animal prints in flats, stacked pumps and the popular peep toe.

Motorcycle and textured knee high, kinda chunky heels ruled for Fall… spike heels and thigh high boots aren’t served up.







Carryalls run the gamut---from satchels, clutches and hobo haulers. The bags come in patents, solid leathers and leather like… and woven leathers too. Dark shades, animal (zebra, leopard) and snake skin prints and tartans dominate.







As with the smashing line of cocktail frocks available in every shade of berry known to female kind (all under $500)…the haulers ( love the Steven by Steve Madden) …also range from deep purple grape to a mauve raspberry tones.










Lastly, leather gloves fit snuggly below the elbow more like the driving gloves our great grannie wore (vs last year’s craze for opera lengths).

We did preview a pair of oversized fur mittens that are the size of oven gloves!!!



INFO MACY’s

FRANCIS by CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH FALL/HOLIDAY 2009

A FRESH TAKE ON FEMININE FASHION and CONVERTIBLE APPAREL


ENK INTERMEZZO, May 6th 2009

PIERS 92 & 94, West Side Highway, NYC

Words, Images Judith Ecochard

We were told to seek out “FRANCIS” by another exhibitor (now that’s RARE!).

No wonder…this well-priced collection of feminine, sassy frocks and separates oozes style with a playful attitude.






No wonder again.

The creative director is the fashion veteran Christian Francis Roth---who we mistook for a young intern of the company at first glance.









THE COLLECTION:

For the Fall and Holiday looks, “the concept is the girl who took over her dad’s Saville Row tailor’s shop,” Roth clued us in.




“Fun signature pieces” include a version of the best-selling stripped Rugby Dress in silk jersey and striking Color Block Silk Bias dresses (perfect for dress up/dress casual occasions).










“We try to do things no one else is doing,” Roth added. And we think the fetching Silk Taffeta Shutter Pleats –on a dress and skirt---fits that bill.

Textural mixes-like the madras plaid piping and lining on a charcoal gray fitted jacket and matching above the knee skirts are adorable…we can see some of those Gossip Girls (so Blair, so Blake) wearing the ensembles.



Priced accessibly (mid $200-$425 for most attire)…Francis was crowded with retailers writing orders when we stopped by.

YEAH!

INFO: FRANCIS NEW YORK



















MY TAI a soft to the touch collection of dresses, body suits, wraps, and shirts that can be worn--- in “endless possibilities” ---and is actually a convertible line we’d want to wear.

Helmed by Melody Fuhr, the stretchy separates are actually posh enough to wear anywhere…and amazingly hold up no matter which way its fashioned (so NOT TRUE of competitors).






Seeing is believing however--- and we saw the signature MY TAI dress on the mannequin wrapped up several ways.






And each style looks genuine---not ‘artificially’ twisted to accommodate.

We also love the palette…in chocolate, black, gray, grape, crimson and pewter---colors that will work with everything we own.



Needless to say, this line is super traveler friendly…..takes up about an inch inside carry -on luggage.




INFO: MY TAI CLOTHING

NICE TOUCH: THE MY TAI WHEEL

THE AAFA's 2009 AMERICAN IMAGE AWARDS-HOSTED BY STACY LONDON

Stacy London





BENEFITTING THE EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRIES-THE CHARITABLE BODY OF F.I.T.

May 12th, 2009 6:30 PM
Grand Hyatt Hotel West 42nd Street NYC

Words, Images Judith Ecochard



A confab of famous name designers and media heavies- including F.I.T. alum (and Designer of the Year Award winner) Norma Kamali (looking amazing!)...

Norma Kamali & Carson Kressley








Bradley Bayou (also looking amazing), Designers Stan Herman and Dennis Basso, Real Housewives of NYC Countess LuAnn de Lesseps (in a “private label”), and presenters-- fashion designer and media personality Isaac Mizrahi, Carson Kressley (host of Lifetime’s “How To Look Good Naked), and InStyle’s Hal Rubenstein… joined many prominent fashion biz types (well attired, naturally) for the 31st Annual AAFA American Image Awards.

Hosted by the effervescent Stacy London of TLC’s “What Not To Wear,” the dinner and ceremonial proceedings included some rather poignant observations on the retail industry in general, and on target remarks by both the stylish giants and the deserving honorees---

…Gilbert W. Harrison, Chairman & CEO of Financo (Lifetime Achievement Award)-a man who seemingly “can get anyone on the phone and make it happen.” Fittingly, Mr. Harrison observed how “our industry is facing the most challenging of times,” AND optimistically pointed out how this environment “brings creativity to the market place.”

Real Housewives of NYC Countess LuAnn de Lesseps








…Blake W. Krueger, CEO & President, of Wolverine World Wide Inc. (Excellence In Lifestyle Branding Award)…the main guy heading up the GIANT company that owns/manufactures some of our favorite kickers (and backpacks)---including Chaco, Sebago, Patagonia and MERRELL

…Michael A. George, President & CEO, QVC (Retailer of the Year Award) the massively influential cable channel that everyone who wants to sell anything dreams of getting a gig on...and corrals hordes of secretly or openly addicted viewers on a daily basis. REALLY, we know them.

… the Palm Beach socialite turned “Champion of the conversational print” designer Lilly Pulitzer (Spirit of a Woman Award) a woman who Isaac Mizrahi deemed “the icon of American design,” Though not physically present Scott A. Beaumont-the CEO accepted), Ms. Pulitzer’s anecdote “…if you have no charity in your heart, you have no heart…” ably summed up the evening’s modus operandi. And honestly, we don't know one chicette that doesn't have a Lilly Pulitzer sheath-- that got the big bump up courtesy of Jackie O...back in the day. Calling First Lady Michelle Obama---who will probably get her own print!

Isaac Mizrahi and his poppin' pink Pulitzer shoes





…and the fifty year old Barbie (Fashion Maverick recipient) as embodied by Richard Dixon of the toy company Mattel. Wonderfully introduced by Hal Rubenstein, Barbie is a "groundbreaking American icon"...who is never out of style. (The Reem Acra Barbie is our top pick)

Note: Stacy London’s quip that both Madonna and Barbie are fifty but “…classics have a great shelf life…” didn’t get the laughs it deserved.

The host is easily one of the most quotable interviews we ever had. Some of her comments that really hit home included:

“I believe in investment shopping”
“Psychological baggage is a bitch”
“Some women suffer from lack of self-esteem” (with respect to what they wear and NEED A MAKEOVER)

-and-

“Fashion is out of sync with what’s going on in the world…the return to the 80’s (runways trends like shoulder pads)…I don’t know how people are going to buy into it.”

Agreed.

Luckily we had more of a chat with this television personality during the cocktail hour…as her predictions that consumers are going to shop for the basics peaked our interest. Fortunately, London further explained that she sees no boring stuff selling…as “it’s a great environment for innovation,” and emerging labels.

Stacy London and Norma Kamali








London also felt that free shipping and ease of returning items are two key factors fueling the explosive growth of online shopping ...for clothes and footwear. And her last purchase online (recent) was a Martin Margiela bag from the website La Garconne…a hauler with the word “YES” splashed across it.



Dylan Lauren









Love the positive thinking!


WHAT AAFA IS:

The fashion industry is truly a global business and has been for hundreds of years (think the 2000 years old ancient SILK ROAD route clogged with merchants, traders and nomads traversing the 4000 miles).

Accordingly, the American Apparel and Footwear Association, based inside the Beltway, is this industry’s needed voice on Capitol Hill and a resource for information and services that impact everyone in this biz and their ROI.

Both the group’s President & CEO Kevin M. Burke and the newly anointed Chairman Carol J. Hochman (the first woman in this office YIKES) astutely remarked on the need to have a presence in Washington DC--- giving the industry “the ability to navigate through the process…” on legislation on crucial matters like counterfeiting… “having the right laws in place and enforcing them.”

Stanley Herman




And in a film clip that was shown to attendees, many AAFA members praised the trade group for informing and educating them on IT and financial strategies- as well as lobbying Congress on issues that plague the business--- piracy and duty taxes.

INFO:
AAFE
WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE
NORMA KAMALI
LILLY PULITZER
BRADLEY BAYOU
QVC
WHAT NOT TO WEAR
ISAAC MIZRAHI
CARSON KRESSLEY
BARBIE
FINANCO
F.I.T





Carson Kressley in Dolce & Gabanna Jacket “I told them what to do.” JOKE

ENK INTERMEZZO-FALL/HOLIDAY/WINTER 2009

CYNTHIA STEFFE Women’s Collection and FARRAH DELAUNAY CARRYALLS
Piers 92 & 94 –West Side Highway, NYC

May 6th, 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard,
and courtesy of Cynthia Steffe

CYNTHIA STEFFE: FALL 2009


During the ENK tradeshows,…a second floor convention/event space on Pier 92---just a stroll from the ground floor Pier 94 (both former shipping berths) ---displays upscale denim and many “name” brands during the tradeshows.

ADDED PLUS: It’s a great opportunity for us to catch up on some of the collections we missed during NY’s Fashion Week…like

CYNTHIA STEFFE
Cynthia Steffe is now designed by the fashion biz veteran-the British Shaun Kearney who termed the latest collection “Tough, Sweet and Rock and Roll Chic.”


With a nod to the 80’s, we felt the use of leather, bling hardware elements (a black dress with a striking diagonal gold side zip), and metallic fabrics made the dresses and separates appealing in a modern edgy way. There were also a few long gowns…but we think the short sparkly sequin cocktail one works best.







Ruched leather dresses, skinny pants, peaked shoulder blouses atop gathered skirts--- are sure to get a gal noticed.





At the tradeshow, the retailers opted for the feminine basics in deep colors --- like a ruffled edge sleeveless scoop silk tops, a raw edged ruffled white sheath, and a polished scalloped hem, belted short sleeve, metallic wool frock- that we can see as the perfect office to night item.








TO SEE THE FULL COLLECTION:
CYNTHIA STEFFE

















A tip off from the Lux Cartel showroom led us to the Farrah Delaunay booth at the Piers last week…for the debut of the BAMBOO collection.

WHAT”S ON:
A colorful assortment of handbags, satchels and totes that are beautiful crafted (in the USA!!!) with the finest Italian lambskin leathers (braid) and hardware (zippers) as decorative elements…that marvelously trim bold printed African fabrics used as the foundation.







THE DESIGNER:



Farrah Delaunay is a smart and super nice woman of the world. Hailing from France with an African heritage this former model (yup, she’s stunning too) finds prints from Senegal and Mali ---and then designs ‘beach to the street’ totes and haulers that really pop.







Featuring sturdy cotton canvas inner linings and snap closures, the carryalls come in all of the shapes women want---a CASABLANCA Weekender, a LAGOS Carry All, a KAMPALA Hobo, a BRAZAVILLE Beach Bag, an ACCRA Mini Bourse, and a Dakar Clutch.

FACTOID: Bags are named for African Country Capitals!


INFO: FARRAH DELAUNAY

MODA & ENK INTERMEZZO FALL/WINTER 2009

SKEA, VELVET HEART, GR DANO
OUTERWEAR, PERFORMANCE AND MODERN CLASSIC APPAREL

JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER,
PIER 94, NYC

May 5th, 2009

A breezed through the aisles of the MODA Fall /Winter 2009 apparel tradeshow (NYC)--.yielded familiar garb sporting key trends we on the Fall Fashion New York runways…

Lots of black and white…and plaid fabrics, feminine dresses, cozy three season sweaters, and lightweight wools in autumnal shades…with some 80’s going on.


We stopped a full-on stop however--- when we hit the SKEA exhibit…as this outwear/performance wear company, owned by mother/daughter combo Jocelyn and Diane Boyer, makes the kind of technical savvy and sophisticated functioning separates that define the category “chic ski.”


We would wear these pieces everywhere.

















WHAT WE LOVED:
The faux fur/leather/shearling coats and jackets (the “Skins”) had us doing double takes…the textiles that are expertly fashioned- look like the real deal…but are unbelievable machine washable (and cruelty free---YEAH).

Priced in the affordable designer category, a reversible vest, and a warm jacket with toggle closures, could be our go to versatile layering pieces for years. A stunning long black coat with a removable faux fur collar atop a broad tapered collar, and detailed braided piping are truly unique.


City fashionistas can wear this apparel with ease for dressy and casual outings…and they’re certainly stylish and more practical replacements for boring long wool coats.

Plus, the coats/vests/jackets are lightweight, stain resistant and extremely packable.

For the “Shimmies” tops–SKEA use Sportek, a moisture wicking, anti- microbial material that keeps bodies warm-and is silky in feel. We liked the rich sea turquoise and sexy animal prints the best ---punched up with imaginative trimmings like Swarovski crystal zippers,























Even urbanites who’ll never set foot on a chairlift could wear these tops available in mock turtle and turtle neck.

Another line –the “Ski/Snow” collection is made of weather tough prime goose down coats, and vests that are all the rage in other lines.







What is exceptional are that the silhouettes are flattering on the super warm…with feminine lines courtesy of chevron quilting patterns that are proprietary.

Yet details like “toasty cuffs,” and high neck closures remind us that these pieces will ward off nasty winter blizzards.

A Ciré laquer ---a shiny patent leather like jacket is a “big mover” and reminds us of the pricier Moncler piece we’ve seen.







Other retail friendly items are the Diana sweater with a custom pattern, and a Brea long coat that has a shapely princess line.

And a collection of snazzy matching hats are also available.







FACTOID:
Items named for the women---like employees and fav customers!

SKEA









VELVET HEART “FRESH DENIM GROWN DAILY”

A family affair, Velvet Heart serves up the denim and silk separates gals want now…the distressed denim look (“blew out”), boyfriends cut that gals wear “slouchy…low on the hips,” an adorable romper---and our top pick, the skinny black jean with zip ankles-a fresh take on a vintage cut that never goes out of style.








What’s Amazing:


The price points…with every item we saw retailing for under $100----PLUS made with the higher end quality textiles, skilled tailoring and great finishes---- (fabrics-denim and silk, well finished garments ---no cheapy threads hanging or bunched up seams, solid hardware like zippers and buttons that are perfectly sewn in, and the coolest designs).







It figures…the Tsabag men have been in the biz for years and know how to source the best.







TOP PICK FOR FALL:


Easy, the tunic length silk button up shirt with eye-catching epaulets and belt details…to wear over leggings, ruched up over a skirt, layered over a dress, etc for a sophisticated, casual look.














SIMPLY: “The hottest.” $98 and WASHABLE!!!

Available in a rainbow worthy assortment of colors.




A trendy oversized plaid/lumberjack shirt that’s 100% cotton is also seeing retail interest.

This is a new label to watch----as we think Velvet Denim is set to become a huge denim driven lifestyle brand—with upscale appeal--- that gets what’s hip and executes with prices that are consumer friendly.

VELVET HEART























GR DANO:

This urbane collection of chic, elegant separates and dresses are standouts.

We met the San Francisco based co-designer/owner Brian Scheyer during Fall Fashion Week---

Last week, we lucked out and met the duo---Brian and partner Jill Giordano.

Right off, we admired the textiles.







The two source exceptional begged to be touched fabrics-with an eye out for the “idea of volume,” and how textiles feel against the skin.




“It’s always about flattering,” Giordano says—when it comes to GR. Dano’s unique silhouettes. “It’s really about what it (a garment) looks like in sizes 2-12.”

For Fall 2009, there’s a stylish mix of very tailored pieces (a wear it forever sleeveless dress--- and hip separates like a fitted motorcycle jacket.












We loved the gray sleeveless blouse with an oversized cascading ruffle collar that’s “a great frame for a face.”

A gently gathering at the yoke of a wool turtleneck bumps up a ho-hum classic--- with the lightweight black trouser, we've got staples that will be worn in all seasons, forever.

“It’s all about balance,” --when it comes to a clever kinda horse shoe shaped trousers and a genius draped long skirt that folds towards the hem---we think, totally works with what a women owns. And these separates, though substantial in appearance… are not heavy.

Colors are largely neutral--- black, shades of gray and creamy white.


WASH AND WEAR:

A cozy fleece fabric has been tailored for comfort, ease and practicality (washable). A draped collar grey jacket with a fluttery origami like design over the zipper has “great texture and structure, is not heavy…and versatile.” Agreed.



Not surprisingly, the upscale Takashimaya store on Fifth Avenue YNC carries the line. There is a subtle Asian aesthetic going on here…simple but luxe.

For other retail outlets:
GR. DANO

Words, Images by Judith Ecochard, GR Dano images courtesy of designers.

IsaDora: INSTANT SPRAY-ON MAKEUP FOR A FLAWLESS FINISH

RADIANT SKIN AT A BARGAIN PRICE $14.00!!!!!

Words, Judith Ecochard

We could not believe the press release we devoured as soon as soon as it hit our inbox…touting the makeup line IsaDora (new to us)----“perfectly formulated” spray on foundation.

First off, we were incredulous as we have written extensively about the benefits (and costs) of airbrush foundation applied by a pro (a tinted micro- mist that sprayed on via an airbrush gun, blends invisibly, last for hours and is impervious to humidity).

Secondly, we had tried on Dior’s DiorSkin AIrflash (around $60) and SKII’s AirTouch Foundation (around $155 for case & refill) ---that yes, look great on our visages but costs plenty more than the camera ready IsaDora Instant Spray - On Make-up that we couldn't wait to demo.

SO...

Can in had, we followed the instructions printed on the back of the can, shook it up, closed our eyes and pressed (prob. too hard) the nozzle.

We think this ia an acquired skill, like learning how to swipe the Metrocard. ..as the cold liquid came out quickly.

BUT…we smoothed the tinted liquid with a makeup sponge----and the finished results rivaled our pricey foundation that we use on special occasions!!!

Seriously, we could not believe how even toned our skin looked with out the spackle effect. And the translucent results that managed to cover our spot-ty parts held up for hours…even through a sweat inducing karate class. The color seemed to blend in well and managed to stay on top of fine lines and pores, somehow.

And mercifully, it’s fragrance free.

Available in four colors…the Instant Spray-On Makeup is sold online at Amazon’s Cosmetic Mall.

Frankly, given our positive experience, we are highly motivated to try IsaDora’s other products like:

… Mineral Foundation Powder ($18.00)—that’s a semi-transparent 100% natural, chemical fee minerals that can be manipulated for different levels of coverage…

…and the Lift And Cover Foundation that touts a “firming anti-wrinkle effect,” and is moisturizing.


FACTOID: A Swedish brand founded in 1983.
INFO: IsaDora

MANDEE- A HOT HOT HOT REFRESHED LOOK AT A NEW FLAGSHIP STORE

PRESS, EMPLOYEES AND MANUFACTURERS CELEBRATE!



WHERE: Route 3, Clifton N.J.
May 6th, 2009 ---6::00 PM

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
Family Image courtesy of Mandee


WOW.

That was the collective reaction from the press and suppliers alike who disgorged from our limo-like Manhattan based bus – into the get the heart beat goin’- vibrant new flagship location of MANDEE, a hip and insanely affordable chain for female trendsetters. This store marked the rollout for the soon to be updated stores throughout the country. This Mandee --- has just opened on a busy byway in the Garden State.

Being native Manhattanites, we vaguely knew the chain store-there’s one down on 14th Street-though the gals and manufacturers we spoke with before the big event had shopped there for years- when growing up.

Happily (unusual) Mandee, STILL a family owned business run by the congenial and very well respected (that was clear) Mandelbaum family---got the fever to re-brand its retail emporiums so that not only are the latest looks ready to buy, but the shopping environment is EXCITING, FUN and FRIENDLY.


THINK a poured concrete floor in a massive industrial like warehouse space---with super high ceilings sportin runway/television overhead hanging lights, snazzy display racks/shelves of trendy clothes/accessories in aisles that are browser easy and grouped sensibly, a dressing room worthy of a Dolce and Gabanna manse,














and our fav, an elevated white block runway that strikingly divides the space and usually has mannequins adorned with the head to toe looks that customers want or is used for happenin’ in-store events.

We were treated to a fashion show with models struttin’ to the music attired with the freshest outfits and oozing boatloads of sass and smiles.

YEAH!













Lucky us, we got to chat with lots of nice folks in upbeat moods.


The talkfest began straight off when leaving midtown’s busy rush hour streets. We sat amongst manufacturers who were very eager to experience the new Mandee and see how their merch is displayed.

And every supplier we spoke with…from the purveyor of body wear, to the guy that “makes the trousers,” --- to the India based maker of fab diaphanous tunics and beaded tops (nice!)











---all proudly highlighted the top quality of goods delivered (and the prices are astonishing)…and the high standards and fairness of the Mandelbaum family. And the latter remarks were unsolicited!!!!



As soon as we got into the store itself, we were BUZZING. The latest tunes set the beat for an action packed evening…that was catered and expertly served. We loved the humongous chocolate fountain (very popular), passed hor d’oerves, smoothie bar, a professionally attended carving station, and huge round tables laden with cheeses, crackers, breads, fruits etc. What a feast.

But it was the conversations we had from the staff that really defined the night for us.

First off, we gabbed with the outgoing sales assistants to see what’s selling. Like their customer base, we figured, these gals (twenty something) wore colorful printed summer frocks under cropped jackets…so xoxo Gossip Girls.




They gave two thumbs up to distressed denim, particularly cutoffs and pedal pusher lengths--- and rainbow colored skinny jeans.

Ethnic/tribal prints (tunics) paired with dangly earrings, oversized beads, chunky wooden/plastic bracelets and multi-strand necklaces for that Bohemian hippy chic pizzazz is HUGE.

And surprising to us, embroidered peasant blouses (gee we wore that back in the day when we went to Mexico for high school graduation)—is also selling. Plaid is still popular though we think that is more of a Fall 2009 item.



























The eighties revival, ~à la Madonna is also big. In fact, we are saving our gift card to snag one of those pleather motorcycle bomber jackets that the guys from JouJou assured us will be delivered this summer. The skinny rubber bracelets we still have.

Shoe wise, we admired how Mandee nailed all the right styles-the Gladiator, grommet dazzled wedges, peep toe and strappy patent leather sandals, flip flops and festive print canvas espadrilles for $24!!!!







And the most wanted labels are represented to---including former tattoo artist turned graphics genius brand Ed Hardy and the edgy Christian Audigier ---serving up cool lifestyle sneakers and pastel flip-flops respectively.















Another great confab for us was a conversation with a sweater buyer---who knew her stuff like no other. Hailing from the costume design world (Broadway Shows!!!), she commented on how slim silhouettes are big. Since Mandee sells in season (the buy it today/ wear it tonight…tomorrow mind set), we were both curious as to how some of those big chunky cable knit sweaters we saw all over the Fall runways was going to translate into this market.







One thing for sure…color pops, and print as wells as solid tone sweaters are selling.







We also admired the merchandise mix that is smartly laid out by the cash registers. ELF Cosmetics---one of our fav inexpensive makeup/body care lines, kitschy retro style martini and wine glasses, silk/gold thread embellished picture frames--- and Hello Kitty anything are moving out according to Nikki, a vivacious Merchandise Mandee employee.













And because every gal gets a quick wardrobe life from a new carryall, the store’s selections included cute patent clutches, shiny wristlets, oversized leather like satchels and hobos, chain link handbags, and splashy lined beach totes.







Congrats are definitely in order. It’s so great to see a creative, well thought out retail branding plan that’s executed well… like the “Field of Dreams”----build it and they will come.















FACTOID: Mandee began as a Brooklyn foundation store for women sixty years ago, started by the grandmother/widow of today’s execs.

INFO: MANDEE

A RECEPTION CELEBRATING THE PUBLICATION OF AMBASSADOR JOHN L. LOEB JR.'S MEMOIR-

“AN AMERICAN EXPERIENCE: ADELINE MOSES LOEB (1876-1953) AND HER EARLY AMERICAN JEWISH ANCESTORS”


May 5th, 2009

Metropolitan Club, Eastside-Manhattan

The Stanford White architectural gem, the Metropolitan Club -was an elegant backdrop to a posh (and eclectic) gathering of friends, family, and colleagues of the distinguished Renaissance gentleman, AMBASSADOR JOHN L. LOEB JR. celebrating his scholarly memoir; “AN AMERICAN EXPERIENCE: ADELINE MOSES LOEB (1876-1953) AND HER EARLY AMERICAN JEWISH ANCESTORS.”

This significant tome that chronicles one branch of Loeb’s accomplished family (and we know this because there was a rather impressive, detailed family tree imprinted on oversized placards on display throughout---and we recognized many, MANY accomplished American relatives)…is a tale that peaked our interest.

----That being one that is “an engaging glimpse into a portion of our national history that is rarely explored.”-

----Meaning life experienced by early American Jews, (eight generations worth) living in the South from colonial times… through later living ancestors who were part of- and helped shape- Wall Street’s modern financial structures via the distinguished Wall Street firm Loeb, Rhoades.

Why this amazing story – that’s revealed with detective worthy precision courtesy of the historian and sleuth par excellence, Judith E. Endelman--- mattered to us--- is that it is not only a compelling read (full of engaging, gossipy tidbits)---

But also chronicles the often harsh realities of life during the Civil War and distressed economic times that decimated the family’s fortunes.

We feel strongly that “AN AMERICAN EXPERIENCE: ADELINE MOSES LOEB (1876-1953) AND HER EARLY AMERICAN JEWISH ANCESTORS” is not just a well researched repository of biographical sketches- limited to interest an elite few or history students of American Jewry. For us, this is an interesting recount of one accomplished (determined) woman’s journey through the significant moments of our country’s history that importantly shape the way we live today.

A colorful cinematic-like sweep of American occurrences, in a matter of speaking.

ADDED PLUS: Master story teller Southern Historian Eli Evans wrote the introduction to this three-part book.

Books sales at the event were plentiful---and benefited the home of the Sons of The Revolution and important surviving Revolutionary War structure-, the registered National Landmark, Fraunces Tavern®.

AVAILABLE for Purchase on the SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY PRESS WEBSITE

Words, Judith Ecochard
Image of Ambassador Loeb Jr. Courtesy of Chance Wih/Patrick McMullan Company

ENK INTERMEZZO: FALL and HOLIDAY 2009

VIRGINS SAINTS & ANGELS ACCESSORIES / JEWELRY
CHERYL FINNEGAN-DESIGNER/OWNER and CFDA INDUCTEE!

MAY 4th 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard and courtesy of Virgin Saints & Angels

We trolled the aisles of ENK’S Intermezzo and we are happy to say, we had company.

Yes…the mood of retail buyers and exhibitors was cautiously optimistic---after all, the buyers actually showed up and wrote orders, (albeit smaller ones with promised hopes of more deliveries TBD).

Compared with the February trade shows scheduled smack dab in the middle of Fall 2009 Fashion weeks and the massive Project/Magic shows in Las Vegas, brick and mortar and internet-only store owners now seemed ready to stock inventory from NY show displayers.

Takeaways…three/four season items AND versatility ruled…
Which makes sense, given the buy it now-wear it tonight mind set. And the fact that many consumers live in warm climes all year round--that makes strictly “Fall” looks moot.

Well priced accessories and garments…a $ / value mentality ruled. We heard over and over again that the pricier selections in booths we visited, while staggeringly eyeball fabulous, were not being ordered…too risky.


Additionally, we learned that many customers were day-trippers, coming into New York for a few hours, and leaving on late afternoon flights/trains. NYC's tourism biz may not be happy, but at least the flow of goods is flowing.

YEAH.

VIRGINS SAINTS & ANGELS ACCESSORIES and JEWELRY

We got a tip on this “celebrity-driven” collection (think Madonna, Dave Navarro, John Galliano, Tim McGraw, Eve Longoria, Usher)… of belt buckles and jewelry.

What a great tip.

VIRGINS SAINTS & ANGELS is an amazing line of spiritually crafted, vaguely religious (symbols, icons) - made from gold, silver, enamel, semi-precious stones and diamond accessories…

“Dedicated to designing adornments inspired by Goddesses and Imagery that encourage enlightenment, expression, and creativity.”

BACKSTORY:

Cheryl “Finn” Finnegan has been living in the scenic mountains of Mexico’s San Miguel de Allende, an artistic enclave of natives, and retired types fused with a large contingent of ex-pats from around the globe.

“Everything has to have a meaning,” Finn remarked of her extensive collection that is “…an evolution of eight years.”

The initial four-piece collection she designed and had locally made “… was initially inspired by 17th century colonial Mexico…and Mexicans who wear their religions on their sleeve.”

THE COLLECTION:

Virgins Saints & Angels currently has several lines, that we can honestly say, had us salivating with wanna have-it-itis.







Favorite looks included a hand cast silver Day of the Dead belt buckle

Hand forged cuffs


The “San Benito” a signature piece--- in collar, buckle or as a necklace to ward off evil spirits








Belt buckles embellished with microscopic stones and original Vatican medallions…



Archangel Bracelet (silver dipped in 24k gold)



And several items from the Royal Collection with images of lions and bold Celtic looking crosses.













SHE POWER:










The Goddesses items feature images of the Virgin of Guadeloupe, Mary Magdalena, and Eve.


We loved the versatility of the necklaces that we can wrap around our wrists or wear as belts.

And the feel of the line, “fun and edgy…to wear with everything- from denim to evening gowns…has the same quality as Tiffany’s.”

The latter opinion is FACT –IMHO/BTW.

NEW:

Peace out.










Set to launch at Fred Segal’s Sparkle on June 23rd, is a collection of 18-22kt gold splashed with diamonds, and emblazoned with “PAX.” The pieces will have the old world/gothic antique style of VSA-- with a modern twist of the precious stone.


Pieces will range from $600- $6000.












ADDED PLUS:

The packaging for Virgin Saints & Angels is exceptional including a gold tone medal round hard case with the Virgin of Guadeloupe…and for the PAX collection-a buttery leather, lined pouch adorned with the diamond/gold company icon.







AVAILABLE: Fred Segal, Ylang23, and soon…NY ADORNED

KAI D. - FALL/WINTER 2009

“BUILD”- AN URBAN PERFORMANCE SAVVY MENSWEAR COLLECTION

“TOOLS & CLOTHING FOR ARTISANS”

APRIL 30TH, 2009, NYC

Words, Images Judith Ecochard and Courtesy of Kai D.

Every once in a while, we are lucky enough to get in on a new fashion collection with the designer as the guru/ guiding light to the intro.







Yesterday was such a day, and the minute we walked into the sunny, airy hub of KAI D. ---and got a glimpse of the inspiration board…we knew that this was going to be a step-up from most Stateside casual wear attire that we preview.

Meaning-a sharp, completely well thought out clothing brand that’s versatile and ‘gets’ what’s needed and missing from the current dude driven, retail market.







IMHO-Kai D. = professional rugged polish--- and priced accordingly.





And a collection that American guys (coast to coast)---- will feel comfortable –and look good- wearing.

WHAT:

Kai D. serves up handsome, well-edited separates “to serve the needs of modern artisans…”

(Artisans is a relative term…we’re thinking anyone with a smidgen of creativity, sensitivity, or just likes to channel cool---)

Impeccably designed and made from unique fabrics sourced from far flung locales like Japan--- the lineup is a “reflection of the years and years of training…and passion,” of the founder Kai D. Fan, a veteran of tops brands like Nautica (sportswear) and the brains behind brand strategy firm, ThincTank (currently working on translating the essence of the hit show America’s Top Model- into merchandise).

For the launch of Kai D., Fan is inspired by the theme “Build”---as in “build the brand,” as well as the modern classical structures of Manhattan-like the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Buildings---both magnificent feats of engineering, architecture and construction that triumphantly emerged- despite challenging economic times (1930’s).

Dejà vu all over again.

Kai D. jackets, shirts, pants, vests and tees clearly capture the best bits of traditional military and utility garb---with the “vintage influence refreshed into a modern feel.”

“For menswear, it’s about fabrication and fit,” Fan noted. And we certainly agree that with many brands-the fits are “old.”

TOP PICKS:

The neutral palette (black, brown, charcoal grey, white) collection of bumped up basics popped with colorful comfy tees- has several winners.













The tailored back and belt element of the Bond Street Jacket that comes in masculine pin stripe as well as a solid…render this outerwear piece worthy of blazer status.







A cotton linen quilted hunting/photographer’s style waistcoat- the Freeman’s Vest is layer friendly over sweaters or tees…and under overcoats foe chillier temps.








Love the pintuck details of a “hybrid” workshirt (part of the Holiday collection)---and polished three button cuffs.





Military homage’s abound---in looks that “blend with everything, are easy care and travel well.”

Dapper epaulets, pipings in silk, and in the white Flatiron Jacket, a gray detachable vest and a genius fusion- two layered outer fabric that sports 21st century elements (water repellant, pockets for electronics) with 1930’s flourishes (buckled cuff, military tabs).















A 1940’s-ish Rivington Work Jacket (a bomber jacket high hip length- on Kai D.) and a warm jacket in suede-ed moleskin boasts a weave that is so dense---it’s water repellant

Pants are a tailored relaxed fit with “carpenter” legs, roomy pockets and tapered knees for a more flattering silhouette.


And we admire how shirts have substantial zippers and buttons for closure…like some of our snowboard gear.





THE DETAILS:

Gadget friendly pockets like reinforced iPOD pocket at front right hip that tunnels cord inside the shirt to a headphone port at right chest and reinforced inside iPHONE pocket attached by Velcro,









Classic shirt tails so untucked does not mean sloppy (thank-you for that),







Shaped back darts on shirts for a sleek line

And top quality thread---as seen on the signature contrast “T” sewn inside “with a subtle stitch showing through at the back.”


Yes, the clothes will not shred when laundered…




BOTTOM LINE:

“I looked at the lifestyle of the consumer…an artist at heart but who lives in a business environment,” Fan informed us.







We think this fresh take on menswear should find favor with American guys who are getting more and more particular about their attire.
TG.

RETAIL INFO: E-Commerce to hit September 2009. Store Locator and Details Online

At KAI D. UTIITY

PRICES: Ranges From $65/Tees to Jackets/$375-$645