Friday, May 29, 2009

EMBRYOLISSE LABORATOIRES® THREE CUSTOM COLOR SPECIALISTS, KETT, LUMINESS AIR®, KISSABLE COUTURE




TOP PRODUCTS: THE MAKEUP SHOW: NY 2009
The Metropolitan Pavilion, West 18th Street, Chelsea
May 17th, 18th 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
Product Images form Company websites

Trolling the aisles is always a fun thing at The Makeup Show. You never know whom you will meet.

COSMIX SCHOOL of MAKEUP ARTISTRY (Christina Mills/Artist)




TOP PICKS;

IMHO: the pharmacies, and the beauty/skincare chains of the planet that don’t carry EMBROYLISSE LABORATOIRES’ products are brain dead.

Every professional makeup artist that breathes- has the Lait-Crème Concentrè in their bag of magic tools and cosmetics- squeezing the familiar blue/white tube at every fashion show/backstage event we have ever been too. Seriously. No matter the makeup/maquillage company sponsoring the show.




















TIM KOST AND THE TWINS





Because “…the models insist on it, ” according to the jovial Timothy M. Kost who is the Prez of Embroylisse USA Inc. (and a potential BFF-love his attitude).

This original “24 -Hour Miracle Cream $25” does it all…cleans, removes makeup spackle with ease, moisturizes without the oil slick, and also works as a primo make-up base primer. In France…it is like toothpaste and red wine…a household staple. For drier skin, the richer Embryoderme® Crème Vitaminè $40…also multi-tasks similarly.

So what’s new?

The Lotion Micellar (No Rinse Make-Up Remover $30) that gently and key, key, key…non toxically (cornflower, chamomile, witch hazel) removes all that stubborn, transfer resistant makeup-including stay put mascara- we’ll be slapping on during the summer months ---leaving our visage toned but not dried out like alcohol based potions.

And we use the new Crème De Soin Exfoliante (Exfoliating Cream $32) when we’re really gritty—though it’s “delicate” enough to use everyday, aided by micro-beads packed with Vitamins E and F.

We also love the Stick Protecteur Lèvres (Lip Protection Stick $12) that kept our puckers feeling normal during a looonnnggg mountain trek…when we are usually pealing off the chapped parts (lovely) after awhile.















Embryolisse-the name is a mouthful (after all it was founded in the 1950’s by a physician…not an advertising/marketing person). But the collection is really exceptional. and more than lives up to it’s motto: Sincere, Simple, Efficient.

INFO including Store Locator EMBRYOLISSE

Three Custom Color Specialists is the go to company for worshippers of discontinued colors that have a cult following---as they are the masters of custom blended formulas.

The pros are also fans as the extensive palette compatible offerings guarantee an exact mix/match for any skin tone…a must under the scrutiny of HD cameras.


There’s a ready to wear line too. In fact, at The Makeup Show…the blew out of the booth best seller ---actually it sold out so we couldn’t try it---was the Light and Dark Clarifying Pencils according to Chad Hayduk, a happy Co-founder of Three Custom Color Specialists. . Used to line the inner rims of the eyes…the cosmetic is an “instant” brightener…that “pops the eye and highlights under the brow bone. “


The pencils also do triple duty as a sleek concealer and lip line re-shaper/eraser …the later use rockin' a popular makeup trend for Fall 2009-of muted smackers that flies in the face of all those painful to look at and get, blowup lips via injections that dominated certain visages for years.


KETT COSMETICS was founded by a former MAC Cosmetics artist- Sheila McKenna…and its air brush “Kett Jett” is a portable air brush compressor completed by two different sized airbrush stylus wands. We’ve written about the company 2 years ago. when we fell in love with all things airbrush in general.






When we got to the oversized booth…the Makeup Artist of television’s The Jimmy Fallon Show was stacking up several Fixx Crème Makeup compacts in assorted skin tone colors. This waterproof camouflage crème serves up sheer to full coverage, is enriched with Vitamins A, C, E, licorice root extract and jojoba ---to combat spots as well as hide them. We liked how it felt on our skin…and actually use it where we need it…as it smoothes on easily with our fingers and isn’t heavy.
KETT COSMETICS


Talk about friendly! The Texan populated Luminess Air® booth was a highlight of the show…we found ourselves relaxing as the bubbly makeup artists Brandy Perez and Marc Harvey demonstrated for us “the first line bringing out the makeup artist in yourself….” aka an airbrush cosmetic Luminess Air® system for the retail market. Sold in kit form, that comes with a professional quality compressor and stylus PLUS liquid foundations (a Matte or more moisturizing Satin version)...and instructions. We thought to ourselves…yeah, this will work.

We had Perez demo the gizmo on us…and the fine mist coverage was flawless, the foundation didn’t accentuate the crinkles under our eyes, and the color match (foundation and blush on our cheeks bones) was really natural looking…not caked on. Though the whole thing took like three minutes to apply…our face lasted for 12 hours…staying put through the night. Yes.

Practically sold out when we got there…was the top of the line Platinum Kit…that comes with a tanning stylus for the perfect faux tan.

Available online …at about one half to a third less than other airbrush systems we saw for sale at the show. There might be legit reasons for the price differential but we think the average consumer will def go for this.

There is an Oprah Effect and there is a MICHELLE OBAMA EFFECT. Trust us…check out the stock price of J. Crew!!!

Kissable Couture got a major bump from Oprah and the First Lady who uses the lip gloss probably---the sold out “First Lady.” Another Nude toned gloss -“Honesty” sold out too.








The glosses are “a line about women and is wearable by everyone,” the sales rep (name????)…told us. “It’s not sticky or greasy and there’s no white residue. The texture is amazing…and moisturizing with a high gloss.”


The colors are “innovative” and plentiful option wise, including flattering burgundy, pink and purple tones.

FUN FACT: Co- Founders are KEISHA NASH-WHITAKER– the Oscar winning actor Forest Whitaker’s wife…and makeup artist AJ CRIMSON.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

TOP PICKS: ALCONE AT THE MAKEUP SHOW

Words, Images Judith Ecochard
And Product Images from the Alcone website

Already there were sellouts…when we arrived at the 4th annual The Makeup Show: New York…so our ability to try stuff out personally- was limited at times. In a good way though.

Our first stop was at the busy Alcone booth. ..where we asked…”what’s sold out?”

“WE’RE SOLD OUT OF EVERYTHING”

And indeed the cupboard looked bare.












Alcone for those not knowing…is like a Grand Central Station for makeup products and tools…with a bricks and mortar locale (322 West 49th Street NYC)…and a thriving e-commerce biz. Makeup pros, clued in natives, and divas of all ilk go there for unsurpassed customer service and hard to find brands that hail from all-over the globe.

WHAT’S SOLD WELL AT THE SHOW

Alcone carries cult favorites like the much acclaimed (and sold out)FastLash™” (a genius white polyester fiber lengthener to use between mascara coats….. we use!!!!

















plus Skindinavia skin care,/makeup prolongers and Ben Nye and France's Visiora foundations and blush.



LipChic Sealer that renders all lipsticks smudge proof--- also vanished. We couldn’t even dab a swab to test on the back of our hands.
























The Kryolan’s Dermacolor Concealer Palette was also hot item.





















THE LATEST…
Like a favored child…the guys were most proud of the new, patented and trademarked adjustable makeup palette holder,






with slide in/slide out makeup trays (scoop ins)…twist and turn ease….and a wrist attachment and/or with a clip for a carabine. IMHO…given how well it was selling, some company is going to come out with the exact snap-in sized makeup collection.

FAMOUS PARTING WORDS

“We will be restocked tomorrow”
We were channeling Dorothy--- like a scene outta our trip to the Emerald City in the Wizard of OZ…we
will Be Back.

MICHAEL DEVELLIS: THE POWDER GROUP’s HEAD HONCHO



PLUS: THE MAKEUP SHOW FOUNDER & EDITOR ON MAKEUP MAGAZINE

The Makeup Show-The Metropolitan Pavilion
May 18th, 2009 West 18th Street, NYC

WORDS, IMAGES JUDITH ECOCHARD






During the 4th annual The Makeup Show last week…we saw Michael Devellis out of the corner of our eyeballs, here and there, in a whirl of constant motion…

No wonder…this buzzin’ show with vendor sellouts (a later clip), cutting edge makeup product intros and staples, packed seminars and business forums, and in shape bods done up in spectacular special effects glory strolling the aisles…

Well, the time just flew.

MEHRON

Mercifully, we caught a few minutes with Devellis in mid flight.

And our conversational theme?

INSPIRATION and SUPPORT.

“For me,” the busy Devellis noted, “it’s what people are feeling,..people are passionate about their craft…and they need a community.”

Makeup artists “are wondering what’s next,” Devellis observed with regards to the weak economy. “…If you feel you are on your own and alone as a freelancer…you can create a support system…we do at the Powder Group.”

“The business becomes stronger….the economy can empower you, strengthening industry relationships…creating energy of support and inspiration.”

NICE.

INFO THE POWDER GROUP

WHAT ELSE: KORRES NATURAL PRODUCTS

Devellis actually WALKED US OVER to the Korres booth. Well, we thought ---this must be something!

We have been to Athens, Greece awhiles back---- where Korres, a native brand RULES. It is a natural line (no synthetics) of skin/body/hair treatments originally based on the rich moisturizer powers of olives, the astringent properties of pomegranate, and the pore brightening wild rose... etc (makes sense). It has greatly expanded the number of SKU’s with makeup too…and a new “green” line of EcoCert® goodies –the Materia Herba collection.

So

What Devellis uses (and we thought he looked amazing---sans makeup we add… and probably no sleep either) is the new Materia Herba Anti-Aging Cream ($46) at Sephora only!

Note to chemical avoidance types…these products are WITHOUT Parabens
- Sulfates
- Synthetic Dyes
- Petro-Chemicals
- Phthalates
- GMO
- Triclosan.

























BUT What sold like hotcakes----the 99% Natural Silicone Free Face Primer ($28)…even the demo bottle had run out! THAT"S RIGHT---in a room full of primers...GONE IN A NEW YORK MINUTE!

Why: It smoothes out the skin (lines, wrinkles, pores), and keeps foundation looking fresh for hours,. Without that waxy feeling...so we're told...we cannot wait to try!

INFO: KORRES

At Sephora's and Toll Free 1-888-6-KORRES
Korres: SOHO 110 Wooster Street Tel 212 219-0683 and Korres: BROOKLYN Tel 718 643 9435

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

SMASHBOX COSMETICS & DAVIS FACTOR’S-PASSION FOR MAKEUP




THE MAKEUP SHOW, NEW YORK

METROPOLITAN PAVILION, West 18th Street, Chelsea

MAY 18th, 2009

4:30 PM

Words, Images Judith Ecochard, and Product Images from the Smashbox Website

It was close to quittin’ time when we met Davis Factor, co-founder with his brother Dean…of the Smashbox Photo Studios and Smashbox Cosmetics.




Smashbox Cosmetics put the use of primer (Photo Finish Foundation Primer) on the map IMHO…as a means “of perfecting the skin.”






And at The Makeup Show. the company found great reception from the pros for their High Definition Healthy FX Foundation ($38) and Liquid Concealer ($18)…both “nutrition for the skin” that revitalizes and treats one’s visage via genius time released moisturizing formula.







Of course, the buildable coverage is excellent---minimizing imperfections for a “soft-focus” natural appearance. After all, the goods got to work.













Another biggie attendees scooped up---was the Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder ($59) an 11 amino acids and peptides, 48 mineral packed treatment/cosmetic that multi-tasks delivering anti-aging benefits as well as radiant coverage…via a kabuki style brush for flawless application.













These in demand products hit the spot in a manner of speaking, given the feedback the Cosmetic side of things gets from the Studio side of the biz…and from the makeup artists and photographers that labor there.

“We very accessible, very customer and service oriented, “ Factor told us. ‘We’re an ego –less company created out of the Studio.”

WE LOVE: How the Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder is oil/ talc/paraben FREE!!!

SMASHBOX COSMETICS-THE PHILOSOPHY AND THE REALITIES




















Davis Factor, still full of energy after what must have been a 48 hour work day, is an engaging guy who feels strongly about “getting out there with the artists.”

---Lucky us since not too many company founders are so hands on about the makeup in these days of corporate takeovers.

“We have a lot of information (about products)…and get it out of you guys, the makeup artists.”

“It’s a coming together for conceptual ideas about the products,” Factor added. “Smashbox gives out a feeling of being very approachable…as it’s about art, creativity and having the freedom.”

“We work with designers too…we’re very proactive.”

With regards to the universal appeal of Smashbox Cosmetics, Factor pointed out that “we use a different girl every shoot…of every ethnicity. “

“Everyone is a Smashbox girl,” Factor noted. ”We are always changing it up…it’s not about the celebrity endorsement.”

What’s also très cool is the price points and ”value” for the consumers…especially via the specially priced, multi product kits available at Sephora and online.

INFO: SMASHBOX COSMETICS

Monday, May 25, 2009

DANY SANZ: CREATOR AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF MAKE UP FOREVER




25 YEARS IN THE COSMETICS BUSINESS-A CONVERSATION

THE MAKEUP SHOW: New York,

May 18th, 2009

Metropolitan Pavilion, West 18th Street, NYC

5PM








Words, Images Judith Ecochard

An artist by training (and certainly by sensibility), Dany Sanz was kind enough o give us a sit down after her busy day at The Makeup Show… and what we learned was an extensive trip to China. Ending the day before. Whew.

Celebrating 25 years in the business, MAKE UP FOREVER: PROFESSIONAL is a line we learned about as students in Paris (way back in the day). And we added to our list of what the French get right…right up their with red wine.

We even remember when it first launched at Barney’s on Madison Avenue as all the drag queens loved, loved loved the false eyelashes and pigmented eyeshadows in a rainbow of saturated colors.

We told Ms. Sanz this and she was amused. TG.

Fititngly, WE raved about the new HD Concealer that we previewed the day prior. “Concealer is very important for the HD cameras,” Sanz noted….”but it is difficult to find without drying.”

“It must be invisible and ‘against’ wrinkles,”

Accordingly, the Make Up Forever lab worked on the HD Concealer for three years…”and we feel happy with it.”

“We tested the product on mature ladies to see really if the concealer has good results.”

Sanz also commented on the silicone applicator--- that “ an exact amount comes out with each little turn…then after each use you can clean it with alcohol and it dries.”

“We found a solution to make everyone happy ….as it’s okay for the realities of daylight and phenomenal for the cameras.”

YEAH

SELLING THE BRAND
Sanz noted that Make Up Forever uses no celebrities to market itself…but “you have to prove it…with products ladies will love.”

“Now ladies are educated and know much more.” For Make Up Forever, “they trust it because the products are good. (FAB-IMHO)
“We want that kind of customer.”

DEVELOPMENT












“We need two to three years for new products. We work with chemists…and check everything with friends and family so the formula(s) is perfect. Then comes the color …(and consideration of skin tones for different ethnic groups),,,and then packaging. “




HD AQUA PRODUCTS

To get the color, texture and pigmentation right for the HD Cameras…”it is really, really difficult.”


And the new waterproof Aqua line---AQUA EYES (5 new shades) and
AQUA LIP (pencil in 6 new shades)

the revamped AQUA BLACK ultra-pigmented creamy cease proof eyeshadow with Micronized Iron Oxide Mineral Pigments…

and the AQUA SMOKY LASH mascara with special nylon fibers to add length and a unique brush for exceptional root to tip coverage

“are extremely popular in Japan, China and the Mid East where it’s humid and hot. “

GOOD MOVE----MAKE UP FOREVER partnered with Mercedes–Benz Fashion Week Swim in Miami this July as the “it” maquillage for the “perfect splash of color.”
No wonder this makeup artists’ brand has blown out beyond cult status.

MERCI.

INFO: MAKE UP FOREVER

MAC COSMETICS’ GORDON ESPINET on TREND: FALL 2009



MAKEUP LOOKS OF THE NEW YORK, MILAN AND PARIS RUNWAY COLLECTIONS

THE MAKEUP SHOW, West 18th Street, NYC- METROPOLIITAN PAVILION, MAY 17th, 2009
4PM








Words, Images Judith Ecochard

The engaging GORDON ESPINET-VP of MAC COSMETICS- was a keynote speaker at the latest The Makeup Show: New York…dishing all the hot looks for Autumn/Winter ‘09--as conjured up by the talented MAC team for select RTW shows.

With the philosophy that “…makeup is all about beauty and experimenting with different things…not to work to much with pre-conceived ideas of what it should be…”---Espinet et al -formulated four Autumnal themes,: LID VISCIOUS, WHO’S THAT GIRL, NEW ROMANTICS and the SCULPTURE CLUB.



All looks are easily translatable to reality and will…no doubt…last well into Spring 2010.







The themes were customized for each designer’s runway romp of course---while “adjusting the look for skin tone and model features.”

LID VISCIOUS
With oversized screens projecting model images, Espinet’s talk started off with a snapshot from the Italian designers D-Squared show. With eyes darkened and glistening via MAC V Line Pencils and Grease Paint Sticks… “This is for a woman that dares…a young Hollywood type that stays up all night.”



At Karl Langerfeld’s Fall 2009 show, the “Warrior Woman” face was one of “hyper perfect” with the product LIP ERASE ---used to do just that…accentuating strong lines around the eyes.

For Preen, model’s eyebrows were bleached (some have them that way anyway) for a “reverse smoke, manufactured hardened cyberistic “ vibe. And for a hard, androgynous rockabilly look, a white pencil rims the inside of eyes.



The Betty Boop visage that fluttered the Zac Posen outing came courtesy of MAC #35 eyelashes.
















WHO’S THAT GIRL?
Inspired by 80’s fashion that blanketed the runways, 80’s poppin’ colors are “over the top and not afraid to be makeup.”

For a “Lady Danger” at Erdem…mouths stood out- “like fabric pasted on a face” …with individualized lipcolor stirred up from a mix up of foundation and neon pigments from the MAC PRO line.











At Emanuel Ungaro, a hyper-perfected makeup worked with groomed eyebrows, and bright lips (important!) using Morange lipstick shade.












Rose Petal graced the shiny kissers at Antonio Berandi while at Alberta Ferretti, a magenta pencil (Girl About Town) in combo with slightly tinted eyes ---kept the focus on the bold lips.















An ”imperfect innocence” (natural, perfect skin) at Giles and a MAC Pro’s purple “Emphasize” highlighted the lips...and at Luca Luca.















NEW ROMANTICS

This is a look for the young or Tilda Swinton’s amongst us. As Espinet noted, “this trend is like an airbrush effect…everything is soft…no hard edges.”

Metallic eyeshadows (liquidy glistening)…sometimes with the color washed all the way up to the brow (Ossie Clark) prevent this visage from being a snooze.

At Matthew Williamson an elegant sensuality came through in the smoky eye.
















And the natural look at Missoni took TWO HOURS!!!!...”using products strategically for the no makeup look.”

Donna Karan saw the acclaimed Charlotte Tilbury employ a silver metal pigment…to a murmur of yeahs in the every seat taken, audience.
















THE SCULPTURE CLUB

“There are eight areas of the face,” according to Espinet …so “it’s really about sculpturing the face…bone structure and shape…exaggerating it, not correcting.”

“This is my favorite trend.” OURS TOO.

Charlotte Tilbury once again worked her magic…this time at Chloe where “each model was given emphasis of what was there.” Lip Erase (again) kept the focus on the face’s planes.
















At Giambattista Valli, an airbrush like, “fake natural” skin with “super harsh cheekbones” was striking with white inner rimmed eyes and exaggerated batwings/slashes of color up top. A similar technique at Allessandro Acqua rocked the “sexy, pumped and amped look.”

The ultimate bone structure also shined through at Blumarine with exaggerated eyebrows.



















CONCLUSION:
Reiterating his mantra, “…don’t do what is expected and predictable ---“like a soft neutral warm eye” (yawn) …Espinet got us thinking We asked him about treatment type products…and his answer:

“We keep our MAC world on what we do best.” Remarking that some primer type products “have some treatment” Espinet was really big on the composition of makeup itself.

“Technology is really helping us…in the last ten years, makeup has moved fast.”

“Make sure you are out there touching and feeling… and keeping up with what’s going on in technology,” he told the rapt audience.

NEW: The gel based STUDIO SCULPT FOUNDATION, CONCEALERS, PRIMERS ---for medium to high coverage. We dabbed some on back of hands…and were impressed with the satiny texture (moist but not greasy), 'spreadability' and the color options.

INFO: MAC COSMETICS

Thursday, May 21, 2009

HIGH SCHOOL OF FASHION INDUSTRIES: AWARD TO TIM GUNN & STUDENT FASHION SHOW




PRESENTED BY
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

225 West 24th Street, NYC

May 21st, 2009

Words, Images Judith Ecochard

A packed auditorium abuzz wih parents, teachers, friends, students, industry and press types were treated to a professionally pizazzed RTW catwalk romp by the ebullient seniors of the HIGH SCHOOL OF FASHION INDUSTRIES,

The evening's festivities, a fundraiser and ceremony in a matter of speaking---- was pulled together by Robert di Mauro-the Chair of the Advisory Board (who’s dad went to the school 70 years ago) and co-Chair Patti Y. Carpenter.

SPECIAL THANKS: Liz Clairborne Inc. who generously underwrote the evening’s scholarship event.





THE SHOW: There is no place like home when it’s not Kansas- as an adorable assortment of muchkin sized children started off the runway eye candy with Wizard of Oz inspired outfits.











Then the seniors, with perfect maquillage (courtesy of Lancome), strutted their stuff and clothing that they designed, sewed and modeled. THEMSELVES!!!























TAKE-AWAYS:

Nary a seam was out of place, nor thread dangling, the fabrics looked expensive, but probably weren’t (budgets being what they are)…and some of the detailed constructions (corsets, draping, ruching) were expertly rendered! We know, we sat right up front!

Attire categorized as sportswear, denim, swimwear, lingerie, evening (short, long) and Bridal were all well done---and we think indicative of what these kids would wear---as well as adults.

We loved the fact that the so overused Boyfriend look and that shredded, ripped denim that hogs up the print magazines this month…were absent. Really glad.

High waist fitted silhouettes worked for the gals.


Even the guys had dark rinse denim- with the proper dose of slouchy swagger without looking sloppy.

Trend alert: Metallic sheen swimsuits! Paisleys/Boho/Animal prints, Wide ties, vests and shorter jackets for guys---for evening== NOT schoolboy shrunken though.

And yes, clothes are flattering on all body types. TG.

a happy bride













ADDED PLUS: The tunes/soundtrack…kept the beat without blowing out our eardrums.

NICE TOUCH: Project Runway Winner Christian Siriano gave a funny and spot on intro to the “quite cute” - Tim Gunn.


















Accepting his award, the always gracious Gunn started his remarks recounting his experience on the Today Show with five HSFI students. For him, it was an up close encounter that had him “…marveled at their character, who they are as people…and their intelligence.”


Fittingly, Gunn noted that this was “easily one of the best graduation ceremonies” (excluding his alma mater Parsons) that he has been to. We’re talking colleges here too.

























Plus: he emphasized “what will be important. in your career…will be those qualities of character.”

And like the mom of a nine year old who gushed to Gunn---in an airport---that her kid loves Project Runway....and she does too because “ it shows that hard work pays off and teaches you cheaters never prosper…”


















A certain amount of tenacity is imperative too …

‘MAKE IT WORK’





WE LOVED:

TEACHERS GOT THE BIGGEST APPLAUSE WHEN INTRODUCED AT THE END OF THE SHOW!!!!!!





CHATTING WITH ROSS BURTON (AGAIN LUCKY US!!!) THE MAKE UP ARTIST (OPRAH!) AND INSPIRATION FOR STUDENTS….seriously….he told us how he met with students 2x this past month…and the first time, one student raised their hand when queried “who wants to be a makeup artist?”

Well, now, many, many hands went up (just prior to the show)…when posed the same question by Burton…who with his colleague Kerry Diamond, VP-Lancome---was moved to tears by the show.

And yes, the makeup- using the breath of Lancome’s colorful collections on the market---had those kids looking great…

Ross Burton, Kerry Diamond,
Robert di Mauro
CONGRATS!!!!








SPECIAL THANKS: ORIGINS, ESTESS LAUNDER COMPANIES, PHEAR CREATIONS, BARON FRANCOIS, LANCOME, LUGO, SMARTWATER, RICHARD RENDA from TOTALLY COOL.