Monday, November 23, 2009

Custo Barcelona, Silvia Tcherassi and Min Agostini: SPRING 2010 RTW


Words, Showroom Images Judith Ecochard,
Runway Images Courtesy of ASI Marketing

It’s always a party at a Custo Barcelona RTW show.

Including the runway romp we saw in Berlin ---exhuberantly colorful, young trendy garb from the LOWLUXRY line…

The New York show, dubbed “Air Show” had different attire…we think what was shown in the Big Apple was slightly more sophisticated ensembles--- made from deluxe fabrics...certainly more detailed.

A follow up showroom visit to ASI MARKETING that reps the label in the USA…allowed us to see how incredible the materials used are and the intricate hand finished details looked blurry from where we were sitting for New York Fashion Week.

It reminded us in a lot of ways of Christian Lacroix with ornate touches that are hand applied…not haphazardly sewn on like lesser made, mass produced clothes.

Custo is also a lablel (duh) very European/international, humoresque feel…anyone that has been to Spain knows “they” dress with more flair over there...

The creative vision of Custo Barcelona, (and co-owner with his brother, David), Custo Dalmau “built around the concepts of movement and lightness” for Spring 2010.

Transparent fabrics with intricate details ---and we mean lot’s of fringes, feathers, embroideries etc. and very bold graphics are transporting. The luxe boho long dresses with matching handbag, a fab lace blazer with a crafty hem, a classic black trench with beaded wide lapel, a silk gathered mini with a gold beaded hem--- are for women not afraid to be noticed and tired of the boring basics.

Such fabulous swirls of colors are rare to see in this economic environment where most fashion labels seem to stick to the more safe solid hues and tailored pieces.

The kaleidoscopic nature of these items does not mean unwearable…our bench mark…we can wear all the separates (fab jackets, tops) with our uniform-a pair of jeans and heels. Or a skirt with a simple tanks and flat sandals.

ADDED PLUS: Kickers that make the outfit!


Also at the ASI Marketing open house were two new to us designers: the Colombian born fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi and Min Agostini---who hails from Argentina.

But women create garments that straddle the ‘clothes as works of art’ category.

For Tcherassi, the cascading ruffles-like delicate flower petals--- on luxury fabrics (silk) are feminine in a collection of glam wear--- mixed casual separates and dresses--- .

And we are sure, priced accordingly.

No wonder the prêt a porter collection has shown in Paris and Milan.

This Renaissance woman also has a line of accessories, a bridal collection---and adds a new hotel collection to her calling card.

We were thinking Issey Miyaki Pleats Please label …as soon as our eyeballs landed on Jazmin “Min” Agonisti’s collection. Silk fabrics in intricate manipulations---are a common thread in an elegant collection of architecturally shaped attire.

Hint: the clothes need to be tried on…as a hangar on the rack hides the structural beauty of the flattering silhouettes.

The palette of solid black or white are perfect as the intricate textiles are best appreciated without distraction. No surprise, Agonisti trained as an architect in her native Argentina.

At first glance, the dresses conjure up swank cocktail hours…but we think one can layer most of these frock over long sleeve top or wear under a shrug or long cardigan, and accessorize with belts and boots/pumps…for a polished daytime look.