Sunday, February 22, 2009
G-STAR RAW MEN’S & WOMEN’S FALL/WINTER 2009
400th ANNIVERSARY OF DUTCH ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK HARBOR AND THIS YEAR’S COLLECTION BY NETHERLAND’S HIPPEST BRAND=SOMETHING TO CELEBRATE
We’re beginning to think that the Dutch orchestrate the ultimate in 21st century events à la the Big Apple since they sailed up the mighty Hudson River- four centuries ago.
Maybe all that practice makes perfect.
In a week full of wonder (Grace Jones on the catwalk)…we were staggered into silence by indie actor/Oscar winner Benicio Del Toro’s reading of “CANDIDATE” by the “only band that matters,” Joy Division (OK-the Clash too). Naturally he was attired in custom G-STAR RAW…and paying tribute to the label that supported his staring role in the film “CHE”----
And the label that chose those lyrics in turn also honored the Dutch photographer/director Anton Corbijn who shot G STAR’s Spring campaign. The arresting images displayed on oversized placards surrounding Bryant Park this week (smart)… is just one indication of this multi-faceted talented man who directed/produced the B/W 2007 flick “CONTROL” about the post punk band’s tortured lead singer Ian Curtis.
Nothing torturous about seeing this collection. We were frankly surprised at how sophisticated the au courant denim brand’s clothes are.
The Fall/Winter G-STAR Raw collection that strutted the Hammerstein Ballroom’s tri-runways…was an‘event’ RTW show as far as we were concerned. Last year’s outing at the Park Avenue Armory…an inventive extravaganza… effortlessly blended artistic choreography and a great end poverty cause---a blend that those dwelling across the pond just seem to “get.” No trauma over what is ART...just an effortless blend of culture by G-STAR RAW that started with actor Dennis Hopper a year ago. And this latest collection lived up to the cool tradition.
Behind a gauzy stage curtain, two musicians played classical music on grand pianos…that we thought was an arresting contrast to the industrial urban attire that we saw. And a nice break from all of the tinnitus inducing ‘tunes’ we have been subjected to in the past few days.
Another surprise--- G-Star’s design team use of mixed textiles like silk, cashmere, and leather for a visually striking interplay of soft and hard edge, shiny and matte surfaced garments.
For women, the long cutaway NY RAW NOA jackets in wool, a hipster worthy leather “Ledge Zip Jacket,” and a warm coated denim parka are winter perfect and we think---will sell beyond Amsterdam’s borders. We also liked a capped sleeve dress and a romper in techno slick fabrics that bumped this label to cutting edge beyond any denim brand we follow.
The guys got plenty of well-tailored long jackets too (reminded us of Broadway’s Spring Awakening’s wardrobe) akin to formal eveningwear attire. There is also some technically appropriate pocketed, multi-strapped overcoats atop warm layers of knit sweaters, and dropped crotched pants that worked with the overall ensembles----IMHO under less skilled design teams this would have looked silly.
Special mention also goes to the lace-up boots/stompers… of G-STAR RAW FOOTWEAR.
INFO: G-STAR RAW
FYI: The Dutch generously announced the building of the New Amsterdam Plein & Pavillion, a gift presented by The Netherlands Government to New York City, designed by Dutch architect Ben van Berkel of UN Studio, Amsterdam. The 5,000 square-foot Plein & Pavillion, a tribute to 400 years of friendship, will be permanently erected at the tip of Manhattan’s Battery Park hopefully in time for the September 8th through September 13th Harbor Day celebrations. For more info on the festivities, visit NYC 400.
Words, some images Judith Ecochard, Runway courtesy of G-Star Raw.