THE GQ CFDA FUTURE MENSWEAR COLLECTION PARTY: Gilded Age, Rag & Bone, SPURR

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel


Time/Place: The unofficial kick-off to NY Fashion Week Fall 2008,
Wednesday night, Jan. 30th,, Rockefeller Center,

This show’s purpose was to showcase GQ Magazine’s picks for the honor of best new menswear talent in the USA. It was also the unofficial NY Fashion Week kick-off, judging by the industry VIP’s in attendance, including Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi and Fern Mallis. Among the capsule collections on display were: Gilded Age, SPURR, and Rag & Bone.
The overwhelmingly large crowd and the great menswear on display, led us early on, to the conclusion that this event was a hands down success within our first 5 minutes in the venue. A few words with the runway’s #1 lens man, Dan Lecca, confirmed our assessment. Said, Mr. Lecca, while hunched over his laptop busy downloading event images, “ I’m very impressed with what Jim Nelson [GQ’s Editor-in-Chief] has done here. These clothes are very wearable and put together in a very well-done presentation.”
Mr. Lecca is also Mercedes Benz’s official photographer for the NY, LA, and Miami shows and also shoots for every major publication you can think of in NY, Milan and Paris.

HIGHLIGHTS

GILDED AGE showed comfy looking shirts, pants, and jackets that had a weathered and slightly imperfect appearance as well as the indigo dyed jeans everyone was talking about. The big selling point for us; that designer Stefan Miljanic has designed a collection that looked great and is sustainable in the bargain.

RAG & BONE:

WHAT”S INTERESTING - the manufacturing process is based entirely in the USA and everyone they work with has been sewing clothing for generations.

This line’s been the recipient of a lot of buzz over the past few seasons, and accordingly, it was nearly impossible to get more than a few words in with Marcus Wainwright, one of the designers before he was called away for another interview.

LYRA: There’s a lot of tweed in this collection, it looks good.

MARCUS WAINWRIGHT: Tweed, well, we’re English!

LYRA: What was your inspiration and what were you trying to achieve in this collection?

MARCUS WAINWRIGHT: Our past and our English heritage inspire us. We also wanted to create something that would look well on the streets of New York today.

LYRA: Our friend over there picked out the oatmeal tweed suit for himself.
What’s your favorite piece?

MARCUS WAINWRIGHT: I’m going with the oatmeal tweed too.

www.rag-bone.com

SPURR – wins the award for best footwear, hands-down. We loved the smooth black leather boots with absolutely no embellishment on them. These beauties define that old truism “less is more”. The clothes did their part too; the detail work on the black wool and cashmere topcoat was noteworthy. The quadruple stitching on a hem is a fine detail you don’t see too often.

www.spurr.tv

LINGERIE AMERICAS- FALL 2008: Lola Haze™ Miss Oops®, Nu Bras®, Hollywood Fashion Tape, Sheandme, G.DAmico, Sexy Bastard by Buckler

WHAT LIES BENEATH REVEALED

Text, Images by J. Ecochard except as noted

Metropolitan Pavilion, NYC
February 26th, 2008

Cruising the aisles of the lingerie exhibitors on the last day of the three day tradeshow turned up more designers of foundation garments and leisure wear with a special something.

Interestingly, what walked the runways for the just finished NY Fashion Week subtly translated into lingerie separates, consciously or not. Meaning:

COLOR-In addition to usual neutral tones, lines were toughed up with darker/ edgier shades, shimmery metallics, and autumnal prints. Also pop neon eighties-style.

DETAILS: Overly frilly feminine looks of Spring 2008 dialed way back. Slashes, cuts and technology innovations (like supportive elements, wearability) more important.



INNERWEAR AS OUTWEAR: Nearly every line we saw had separates that would work layered over tank tees, as cover-ups for swank pool lounging, as statement pieces-instead of a necklace for example, functioning like bold accessories, anchoring an outfit.

SPECIAL PURCHASES: Giving the consumer more reason to shop…plus impulse (full margined sales) splurges were reflected in number of exhibitors who served up ancillary products retailers could stock on the counters.






Some highlights:

BEST NEWCOMER:

A gorgeous, curvy model outfitted in the LOLA HAZE™ line of edgy sleek camis and tap pants a.k.a boy briefs…grabbed our attention right off. But it was the smart friendly designer, Laura Mehlinger-who gave us a deeper understanding of the modern women she creates for; a grown up “Lolita” (hence the brand’s name) who “plays in many forms…but is sophisticated, sensuous and confident.”


Schooled at Harvard and mass market giant the Gap/Old Navy, Mehlinger has “followed fashion and knows the transformative power of clothes’ but wanted to dig deeper into the emotional powers of touch. “I love lingerie because it dances between public and private domains.”

INSPIRATION: Titled “Plunder” Mettinger’s Fall 2008 is for modern “armored” Joan of Arc gals “seeking and offering treasure.”

COLORS and FABRICS: Color blocks of liquid silver metallics, muted purples, brooding midnight black, dreamy grays, twilight navy, and crème ivory in sensuous silks, and light as a feather mesh net. Chain mail and striking architectural details “that add structure, are integral to the piece, and are not trim.”

HOLIDAY ITEMS: A sparkling tiny gold metal studded, bright red net cami, boy cut briefs that was smooth to the touch. A genius radiant gold/ivory striped dressy hooded cover-up with matching cuffed pants. Expect to see a Hollywood starlet sporting this.

HOT ITEM: The black jersey cotton suspender shorts, a “tasteful side of trashy.” Also lower priced (around $35/piece) line of cool camis, thongs. Black leggings with a silvery gray lock and key trompe l’oeil graphic snaking up the left leg.


Images courtesy of Designer
REMINDS US OF: Alexander McQueen, Nina Ricci’s Olivier Theysken.

SCOOP: Completely fabric’ sourced, produced in NYC. Designer makes her own samples! Sigur Rós on iPod.

Look for LOLA HAZE™ to hit big at better boutiques. For now, try NYC’s Azaleas.


New gadgets that switch on light bulb ‘why didn’t I think of that” moments.

MISS OOPS®

Leave it to two Texan moms to produce novel pieces with kitschy fun names- that we need to make our lives easier.

BESTSELLERS FOR FALL:

BOOB TUBES™ and JAKS™ are bandeau-like stretchy lace pieces that women slither into. The cover-ups deftly mind the gaps between shirt buttons…and tops over trendy low slung pants. Their motto; “say no to cracks.” ($38-40)

NUNDIES™: Peel off “hygienically hip” microscopic thin shields to wear attached to performance gear or slim fitting pants/leggings for guaranteed no tacky VPL plus some protection.


RESCUE SPONGES™: Rub-dry sponges with a special dry cleaning solvent-that wipes away make-up powder, baby powder etc. Lasts for months.





Fashion Week staple HOLLYWOOD FASHION TAPE had a slew of feminine retro- packaged items to prevent our wardrobe malfunctions.



MUST HAVE: HOLLYWOOD BEHIND THE SEAMS™-pretty self-adhesive apparel under arm shields. Ladies, get ready to save on dry cleaning bills.


HANDY: RED CARPET ASSORTMENT™-Soon to be a bridal suite staple, a kit with 5 unique double-stick tape shapes that will secretly keep garments in place.









NU BRAS®

We don’t’ understand the physics, but the re-usable, strapless bra cups of Nu-Bra magically manage to enhance and uplift invisibly. No wonder the medical grade silicone cups are patented engineering wonders. Different cover-up modalities including a feather-lite and gel types.

NEW COLORS: Bright neon cups join the popular Aphrodite collection of leopard and Pucci-esque prints.

TREND ALERT: Look for daring ladies to bust out…with deep v-necks or un-buttoned tops.




SHEANDME

This two-year old, mix and match brand by two Los Angelinos- are known for their signature soft “back to basics collection” and for Fall 2008, the “lounging in luxury” modal/silk separates. By popular demand, they’ve expanded their 100% certified organic offerings to join their natural hoodie and draw string waist lounge pants with airy tank tops/bralets/bottoms available in natural neutral, H20 blue and pomegranate.

BEST SELLER: Boy cut briefs.

BEST IDEA: The double-sided brief with a solid front fabric, printed back.

REAL WEAR IN ORANGE COUNTY: We swear we’ve seen Cameron Diaz and/or wives of southern Cal in the sexy comfort wear swingy solid and printed chemises.

SERIOUS FACTOID: The socially conscious SHEANDME donate a portion of profits to charities “that seek justice and empowerment for women around the world.” We’ve met them…they mean it.












GIOVANNI D’AMICO

A new line by a lingerie veteran, Giovanni D’amico ventured south from Montreal to display his new elegant women’s “trousseau.”

LOOK FOR: Understated luxe details, Canadian crafted lace that harks back to Belgium’s finer moments. Vintage, twenties-flapper feel in well-made night gowns, robes…fine enough to wear beyond the bedroom. In black, soft white, pastel “mint.”

INSPIRATION: His mother. Desires to bring a traditional European women’s dowry “into today’s world.”

WE APPRECIATE: Sexy subtleness, refined chic…NOT in your face vulgarity.







MENSWEAR FAVORITE ANDREW BUCKLER

We met the cult favorite Andrew Buckler aka Sexy Bastard- backstage at his January runway show. American ingenuity and a Brits edge came through very well indeed in his Spring 2008 basics line. To join his “Thruster” brief (packaged with detailed instructions in a box with a signature print) are fine-spun basic briefs with contrasting trims.

BEST IDEA:Sporty or "tailored" socks with matching color bands on the top and toes-so guys can easily match up after a toss in the dryer.

GILDED AGE – HURRAH FOR ORGANIC FABRICS, NATURAL DYES AND MAKING GARMENTS THE OLD FASHIONED WAY

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, J. Ecochard
All images from the Presentation of the Fall 2008 Men’s Collection at the Woolworth Building, Tuesday, February 2nd , 2 – 4 pm


Time/Place: The GQ CFDA Future Menswear Collection Party
Rockefeller Center, Wednesday night, Jan. 30th, 2 days before the show


What we previously knew about “The Gilded Age” had nothing to do with the eco clothing line we discovered at the GQ party. Back in the late 1900’s [1878-1889] a great many fortunes were made, like John D. Rockefeller (oil) and Andrew Carnegie (steel). They were either businessmen or ”Robber Barrons” depending on your point of view. On the other side of the coin, there was flood of immigrants who came to Manhattan who dressed in dark and earth colored palettes such as the ones we saw on the Gilded Age preview platform. We’re happy to report that the Gilded Age we discovered at the GQ event was nothing but positive.
We braved the throng gathered around designer Stefan Miljanic long enough to ask a few questions. Mr. Miljanic is an artist who shifted gears a bit and went on to design for some big guns in the fashion biz including Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, and Abercrombie & Fitch.

LYRA MAG: It’s chic to be eco now it seems.

STEGAN MILIJANIC: I’ve always felt strongly about sustainability.

LYRA MAG: Tell us about some of the organic aspects of your brand.

STEFAN MILIJANIC: We use organic fabrics and natural dyes such as natural indigo and persimmon and other vegetable dyes. You’ll also find some of the oldest natural dyes in the collection: Volcanic mud dye, parchment, natural charcoal, tea, logwood, and Japanese Alder.

Although the GQ party was only a preview to the collection Mr. Milijanic showed later in the week at the Woolworth Building, we liked what we did saw that evening.
The look actually reminded us of the original Gilded Age, in that the shirts, pants, and jackets had a weathered and slightly imperfect appearance. Like Martin Margiela’s pieces, they may look “undone” but don’t be deceived - there’s a lot of handwork and hardwork that goes into achieving this “undone” look.
We’ve grown tired of the seemingly innumerable jean collections out there, even the organic ones, but we really liked G.A.’s natural indigo jeans in a very deeply hued blue, thanks to being dyed with the color of the actual indigo plant.


POINT OF DIFFERENTIATION:
AN INTERESTING MANUFACTURING PROCESS AND A FOCUS ON ARTISANAL SKILLS
Gilded Age works with some of the oldest machinery still used in industrial production. A lot of upper end design houses offer hand knit sweaters, but we doubt that many are created as they are at G.A. Some of their knit garments are knitted on "Hung Up" jersey machines [a staple in knitting from 1870's -1960's] It’s a time-consuming process as these machines operate 30x slower than regular knit machines. The beautiful sweaters that result are well worth the wait.

BACKSTAGE BRANDS- MAKEUP SECRETS

Text, Backstage Images by J. Ecochard


Products Makeup Artists Rely On!

THE 411
Check out the make-up cases of the pro’s (no matter who they’ve pledged allegiance to) and certain beauty products always seem to be packed in the stash.

For a few seasons running, casual glimpses of these venerable treasure chests of colors turned up European skincare lines that made the voyage stateside without any advertising campaigns…but because they work.

WHEN INSIDERS SPEND THEIR OWN MONEY ON POTIONS AND LOTIONS-we pay attention.

EMBRYOLISSE

Founded by a French pharmacologist in the 1950’s, the skin-care brand Embryolisse works with the derma’s “natural barrier properties.” Cutting edge technology and plant extracts are tossed in the brew of all products-serving up a complete line to cleanse, moisturize, and restore skin tone and elasticity, and reduce wrinkles.

The multi-functional Lait-Créme Concentré (a.k.a. 24 Hour Miracle Crème) was found backstage everywhere-from mid-town’s Bryant Park Tents to fashionable downtown catwalks. The creamy lotion acts as a thorough cleanser, an absorbable moisturizer, and soothing shaving lotion.

Prices for the entire line range from around $18-$75.00

BIODERMA
The Laboratoire Dermatologique BIODERMA, based in Lyon, France-prides itself on working with the leading dermatologists and global researchers to produce top notch skin-care treatments. This aggressively expanding company has several lines targeting specific skin types-as well as-sun protection, and hair & scalp products. Many of their formulations are patented and from personal experience, terrific.

Bright red packets of Bioderma’s H2O wipes removed spackles of makeup easily-sparing the perpetually late models more trauma to their visages.

Other shows and struttin' runway gals themselves-had plastic bottles of the liquid cleanser version, Bioderma-Créaline H20, an ultra mild non-rinse, soap free cleanser and moisturizer that often sells out in the States (Retail-about $24.00).
Tempered with cucumber extract and non-detergent ingredients, the calming solution lifts the dirt while imparting a hydrating film.


MENSCIENCE
Based in sunny Florida, the under the radar Menscience has a trove of pro athletes as customers for its supplement and skin care goods.
We noticed the handy Advanced Acne Pads quickly wiping away the city's grime off the faces of male models as they were getting prepped for make-up. Grabbing a container, the label had healing Tea Tree and Witch Hazel extracts listed in the ingredients...while the Glycolic Acid surely kept the guys skin ready for their close-ups.(Retail $22.00)

LINGERIE AMERICAS CEO, PATRICE ARGAIN, TALKS ABOUT HOW THIS SHOW HAS GROWN AND WHERE IT’S HEADED

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel

TIME/PLACE: The Altman Building, West 18th Street,
Early Sunday morning, Feb. 24th.

Our first stop at LINGERIE AMERICAS was a sit down with Lingerie Americas’ CEO, PATRICE ARGAIN.
Granted, this isn’t Ready To Wear and doesn’t get nearly the attention that NY Fashion Week does, but the lingerie market is nothing to sniff at.
*Dun & Bradstreet reported in 2006 that the industry's estimated 179 establishments posted annual sales of nearly $1.9 billion. New York led with nearly $827 million in sales, followed by New Jersey with nearly $229 million in sales, and Connecticut with nearly $225 million in sales. Comprised of seven different specialties, the primary segment was brassieres (nearly $973 million in sales) with bras, girdles, and allied garments trailing with nearly $704 million in sales.
Given these numbers, it’s not surprising that there are five lingerie market weeks a year in the US.


Lingerie Americas has steadily been growing in attendance and importance on the trade show circuit. CEO, PATRICE ARGAIN, sat with LYRA MAG and answered a few questions about the how’s and whys.

LYRA MAG: Why did you decide to change the dates and not show over Valentine’s Day?

PATRICE ARGAIN: We changed it after conducting a survey of our attendees. Over 92% of the Specialty Store buyers/owners responded that they needed to be at their boutiques selling for Valentine’s Day,

LYRA: How many people come to Lingerie Americas?

PATRICE: The average # of attendees is 2,500. It’s stayed at that level since the last 2 years. It’s true that the NY show has grown – there’s a 4th floor now.

LYRA: You’re now showing in Vegas. Why?

PATRICE: There’s a West Coast Show for the West Coast buyers in Las Vegas in Feb. and August in partnership with WWDMAGIC. They agreed to have a Lingerie section called “Lingerie Americas at WWDMAGIC. This is a good opportunity for many specialty shops that weren’t necessarily shopping for lingerie to find some great lingerie while at WWDMAGIC and for lingerie vendors to pick up some accounts. WWD MAGIC is a very large show, they have 120,000 visitors and 4,000 exhibitors showing all sorts of lines, from kids wear to menswear, sportswear and now of course, loungewear.


LYRA: You’ve been at the helm since 2002 and we’ve always come here [the Altman Building] for this show. Does this location still work for you?

PATRICE: THE ADVANTAGE is that it’s centrally located and it has wooden floors, which is boutique-like in feeling and works well with the upscale merchandise being shown.

THE DOWNSIDE is that it’s not all on one floor, and we have a waitlist of @ 20 brands
It’s a high-end premium show and a great resource for fine specialty stores, and better Department Stores. Bras here generally wholesale for upwards of $30.

LYRA: What’s the dream? How could you improve an already good show?

PATRICE: TO double the size of the show, have the show all on one floor, larger booths, more rest areas, accept everyone who applies and to do a real [full on] fashion show for maximum impact.

LYRA: Although you don’t have a fashion show [yet] you’re doing some interesting seminars.
PARTICE: Yes, there’s a great one about how to properly fit lingerie being led by Frederika Zappe, an EVEDEN INC. It teaches buyers how to fit their full-busted and full-figured customers.

To learn more about Lingerie Americas, visit
www.lingerie-americas.com

[*From the book, “The Encyclopedia of American industries article published by the Gale Group]

LINGERIE AMERICAS: Some great Eco Chic lines and just plain adorable robes and intimates

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Richard Spiegel

TIME/PLACE: The Altman Building, West 18th Street,
Early Sunday morning, Feb. 24th.


Our focus this season was on locating some great new Eco chic resources meaning resources in which fashion comes first, and they just happen to be Green. WE called our search for these resources, “MISSION FOCUS GREEN”.


MISSION FOCUS GREEN
RESOURCE # 1: THE PUR CASHMERE line.
Everyone was talking about the Pur Cashmere line up on the 4th floor, with good reason.
Pur Cashmere combines Jil Sander chic with an Eco Conscience, just the kind of resource that gets our heart racing.
We were initially drawn in by a gorgeous fluffy white robe and once inside, discovered much more.

Pur Cashemere co-founders Leslie Deane Roth and Lynne A. Shanoski have been in business for 3 years. While they’re very pro-eco, they’re market savvy and understand that the vast majority of the women trolling the floor at Neiman Marcus is interested in great design first, eco second.
The result of 3 years of hard work? A line that defines the term “Minimalist chic” in a Jil Sander type of way [when Jil was designing it in the nineties]. Add to that the fact that the pieces have an incredibly soft hand and are environmentally friendly.
The Eco aspect is important to these ladies; Leslie Roth has been going to Mongolia to source the cashmere and to work with the indigenous culture for the past 4 years.


OUR FAVORITE: THE CAMBOO TRAVEL SET in sand. The set includes a 50” X 55” blanket, travel mask and socks. Camboo is a fabrication that’s 20% cashmere and 80% bamboo.
Wholesale: @ $100.


IT’S A GO
Style conscious buyers have already taken note; Pur has already been picked up by Neiman Marcus and Manhattan’s hip ABC Home. ABC Home CEO and creative director Paulette Cole is according to Leslie, “ a total supporter of eco chic”. Ms. Cole’s mission is to transform ABC into a 100% socially responsible world market. The trick, she acknowledges, will be to do it without sacrificing the company's $80 million in annual revenue, its 350 employees, or diminishing “the ABC magic”. Carrying brands such as Pur goes with her philosophy of helping indigenous people while creating a wonderful product her upscale consumers will be lining up to buy. With lines such as Pur on her selling floor, she won’t have any problems meeting her goals!

www.purcashmere.com
tel 1.800.225.9157
fax 240.536.0094

www.abchome.com


MISSION FOCUS GREEN
RESOURCE #2: The BAMBOO NIGHTS line.
We chatted with the jovial Louis Van Leeunen, the owner of the Greenwich CT based Eco line about the merits of his line. We’d stumbled across it and admired it a few months ago while browsing Greenwich Hospital’s Gift Shop.

LYRA: What’s your point of differentiation with all of the other eco brands that are also using bamboo fabric?

LOUIS VAN LEEUNN: We were the first to do bamboo sleepwear exclusively 2 years ago. Our sleepwear does not have a Topical Finish, a spray you don’t want up against your skin. All that is good, but we’re not stopping there. We’ve come out with more fashion forward looks, like the 2 piece pink lace trimmed set that wholesales for @$35,


TARGET AUDIENCE: a good choice if you’re pregnant, are experiencing menopause or are undergoing chemotherapy; women in chemo can benefit from bamboo’s proven anti-microbial properties. These sets also work for those days you want to relax in total comfort in a chic pajama set devoid of distracting frou frou.

HANDY PARTING TIP: Don’t use dryer sheets or fabric softener on fabrics containing bamboo, as they could destroy the bamboos and the wicking effect.

WHERE TO GET IT:

www.womenshealth.com
www.zappos.com
www.coolblossom.com

With 2 eco resources under our belt, we went looking for lines that were just plain fun and pretty and spent a good bit of time at milili and Daddy’s Favorite.

JUST FOR THE FUN OF IT – milili

The name. “milili “ is a combination of the name owner and her sister’s names. One of the company’s designers, Angel D. Hernandez, took us through the line.

TOP SELLER: the boy short

THE CONCEPT is geared toward their two different customer profiles, the teen and the more mature [20 year +] woman.
For the young teen that’s looking to have fun there are designs with glitter appliqués and colors. For the more mature customer, there’s that lingerie favorite, lace. Enthuses Mr. Hernanadez, “There will always be a demand for lace!”

OUR FAVORITE: the “Tie me up collection”

Designer Ludy Adams, the company’s other designer is responsible for this one.
We loved the black mesh “Statin Ties Fishnet Boyshort” [Style # SX2008] wholesaling for an astonishing $3.75. We say astonishing because this is an exception to the steeper price point typically found at this upscale show.

The ribbons come in yellow [as pictured], fushcia, orange and jade. With this many choices, it’s a winner. We’re planning on getting one in every color.
www.milili.com

ON THE 4TH FLOOR
DADDY’s FAVORITE - NOT JUST ANOTHER BORING ROBE – our favorite new capsule line from LA.
Designer and owner, Mariam Saffarian’s first piece was “The Dame” a short robe in a colorful print, which started her 1-year old company.
Wholesale: $63.99
WHO SHE’S MARKETING TO: both sexes! Men buy robes for their wives, especially at Christmas.
The fabrication is an easy lighter weight cotton voile fabric. BY easy, we mean that it never gets wrinkled enough to have to have to iron. The most you’ll ever have to do is to lightly steam it.

WHAT WORKS: The unique graphic designs in cheerful colors and the fact that you can wear these robes out like dresses, especially the long wrap version. We loved it in a coral and hot pink “modern safari” print.
Wholesale: $67.99


NIFTY IDEA: the 1-size fits all velour towel wrap that wholesales for @$29. Here’s an elegant alternative to fussing with a towel wrapped around you while you blow dry your hair, and do everything else you need to do to get ready after taking a shower. The matching long black velour robe also looked good in black.
Wholesale: $72.
FOR BRIDES TO BE or for a woman who just likes white there's the long “Royal cream damask” robe in a shade flattering to all complexions.

GOING FORWARD: Miriam’s a designer with a business background that realizes the merits of growing her business, slowly. She’ll continue to sell her solid jersey wrap front robe and solid towel wraps and develop her custom prints with her graphic designer. If things keep going well, we may see some cute pajama bottoms in a season or two.

www.daddysfavorite.com

MARK YOUR CALENDARS
The next Lingerie Americas New York show will be held August 3-5. There will be a 5th floor to accommodate sleepwear.
The next WWD MAGIC show will be held in Las Vegas, August 25-27.

INDUSTRIAL ROCK RAD HOURANI-AN EDGY FALL 2008 DEBUT

Meatpacking District, NYC
February 8th, 2008

Text, Backstage Images by J. Ecochard
Runway Images Courtesy of Rad Hourani

The haunting voice of Johnny Cash singing Trent Reznor’s (Nine Inch Nails) moody “Hurt” filled the stark white space on Bumble & Bumble’s eight floor gallery. So right off, we knew we were going to love the music played for Canadian stylist turned designer Rad Hourani’s mid-day show.

And then backstage- we noticed a clutch of top tier models getting board straight hair extensions-and figured out that Hourani must have something special about his clothes too.

Thirty looks later, we joined the choirs of universal praise for the fitted masculine/feminine silhouettes with strappy details that channeled early Helmut Lang and Anne Demeulemeester…and like Lyn Devon’s show-was totally 2008. Merci.


The modern edgy vibe of leggings, scrunched lean pants, silk sleeveless tops, and strong shoulder long jackets and winter coats will find street chic wearers amongst the young, the French, the slim…or any combination there of. We assume the striking Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld has already blessed this talented design new comer to NY’s runways.







Largely black (what else?), smoky grey, and poppin’ red tones dominated, while blocks of fabrics and leather, marked by satiny trim or ingeniously tailored into deep pocketed vests… admirably bought to mind the artist Mark Rothko. Custom designed black and red leather boots, and thick belts- were the most notable “accessories” in a show that really didn’t need any.








HAIR/MAKEUP:

This was the last day of NY’s Fashion Week-so the models’ may have needed the revitalizing moisture masks applied by the M.AC. pros, followed by spritzes of M.A.C’s Charged Water. Curled, mascara-laden lashes and barely there lip-gloss subtly accented the clean skin palette.

Shiny, flat ironed long, center parted locks (enhanced or real) ruled.

CAMILLA STAERK-GETS IT RIGHT FOR FALL/WINTER 2008

Scandinavian House, New York
February 8th, 2008

Text: J. Ecochard

New Yorker by way of Denmark, Camilla Staerk and her Fall 2008 collection lived up to the accolades heaped on her by Gen Art (and its Fashion Fund that co-sponsored the show), Top Shop’s New Generation Award, loads of editorial ink, and A-listers who wear her garb… and probably paid for it too.

Staerk’s 2007 and Spring 2008 collections showed deft use of bright textiles and polished austere outfits… befitting a native from Hamlet’s brooding abode. This collection’s sophisticated lineup, amped up with vibrant white and red colors, balanced by enchanting blue-ish greens and ash greys, was truly a creative, and no doubt-commercial leap forward.

THE LOCALE:
Park Avenue’s multi-stored glass sheath Scandinavian House -is emblematic of clean, modern architectural design and was a good choice, venue-wise for Staerk’s runway romps. The shows were staged several times to accommodate fans and press temporarily under lock down at the nearby Sean Comb’s Cipriani’s held runway soirée.

Flutes of bubbling Moet&Chandon greeted the crowds. Plus an upstairs airy event space, tricked out with copious pours of Belvedere Vodka cocktails and a coat check room- ensured a well–lubricated, hands free audience.

THE INSPIRATION:

The looks coined “Black Bride Of The Moon” tapped the “strength and mystery” of the abstract expressionist sculpture, Louise Nevelson.
This legend’s “dark and textural” works (namely her charcoal black assemblages and monumental sharp angled pieces) gracefully seeped into Staerk’s mindset…as seen in glistening black, and graphic black and white prints of the close fitting helmets/head scarves and fedoras by the West 18th Street NYC Milliner, Ellen Christine, a bold black, fringe-y leather belt and thick wool scarves… and dynamic fabric choices of merino knits, malleable leather, and coated silk punched up with metallic, lace and rubber attributes.


The deeply rimmed kohl eyes of the models- by Londoner Pep Gay of Streeters- were also a direct nod to the Nevelson’s stark physicality. As Nevelson herself observed:

“Every time I put on clothes, I’m creating a picture.”

THE COLLECTION:

Twenty-three looks strolled the catwalk. All were winners but we were particularly drawn to simply elegant deep scooped neck, dark grey lace patterned tank dress layered over black jersey (Look # 20) and the upscale ensemble of Look #4: a thick strikingly fringed charcoal wool scarf paired with a biker style dark teal green leather jacket-its turned lapels revealing a jaunty black lining -over side pocketed, high waist white wool trousers.
Plush black leather, belted harem pants with big side knots (Look 13) and an end of show, shiny coated silk sleeveless, two front slit wedding gown, with a softly cascading black lace bottom half-were also striking.


CONCLUSION
Retailers should come a calling.


Images Courtesy of Gen Art, ARTnews, Don Ashby,Louise Nevelson Foundation

HOUSE OF ORGANIC-EKOVARUHUSET

ECOLOGY FRIENDLY - AND OUT OF THE WOODS!

Text, Runway Images by J. Ecochard

Fall/Winter 2008 Collections

Park Avenue, New York
February 7th, 2008


Our brows arch into a pointed John Belushi “Animal House” pose when we read published chronicles about celebulites-and their “eco” lifestyle-with images featuring them outfitted in clothes requiring toxic chemicals and pesticides to manufacture.

The tedious crunchy claim of boring “eco” fashion hasn’t been relevant for years-check out the fierce Linda Loudermilk's or vegan Stella McCartney collections for proof. From the soup (basic materials) to the nuts (runways shows in ecologically designed event spaces made from “clean” recycled materials) - the fashion industry is making inroads…

So we were surprised by the small initial press turn out at the LEEDS certified Haworth space for the House of Organic’s first three runways shows. The editors missed out on some of the more graceful collections presented all week.

TEXTILES & FABRICS

Our first stop at the 2nd floor location- was a tasteful exhibit area where we were happy to see the ecologically hip State Street PR team, Kristina Ratliff and Ryan Urcia…with a client in tow. We were quickly introduced to said client, Sandy MacLennan, a jovial Italian guy who founded an innovative textile firm, C.L.A.S.S., with partner Giusy Benotti.

Currently based in Milan, this showroom of green fabrics, who’s motto is “Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy” came together just over a year ago as a provider/platform of luxe materials worthy of couture. As MacLennan passionately recounted, “trends come and go…ecology is not in a corner anymore.” He felt that if one “puts it (high-end fabrics) in front of an audience that uses it” -much like the “Field of Dreams” motto-build it and they will come.

As proof-C.L.A.S.S had a humongous armoire full of drop dead sumptuous fabrics, fibers including the Inego brand, and yarn samples from 80 different suppliers- convincing us that momentum for the showroom’s ecological and cruelty free products will go way beyond their current Milan RTW designer clients.

A New York C.L.A.S.S showroom is set to open this summer…a good thing given the mob scene surrounding Bettoni when we left the event,

THE SHOWROOM

Haworth is an ‘ahead of the curve’ furniture/design company of flexible office spaces that launched a eco line back in 2003. Now their stunning showroom/performance space in the Pershing Square Building on 42nd Street and Park Avenue… is gorgeous and green. Configured by architect Eva Maddox, the huge 30,000 square foot space is living proof that environments can be easily and affordably reconfigured dependant upon a company’s needs—using recycled and non-toxic materials. It’s a dramatic sunlit venue for runways shows- as palatial windows, soothing cream colored stone walls, a tomato red carpeted seating area outfitted with a plush couch, soaring 10-30 foot high ceilings, and angled sculptural chrome track lighting - warm up the clean, contemporary space. Site lines are excellent.

Image courtesy of Haworth

Recycling bins for the plastic water bottles and cups used to serve organic wines are no-brainers...a practice we would love to see other fashion venues adopt.

ECO FASHION

The model Summer Rayne Oakes started the event barely clad... but was soon joined by fashion veteran (plus beloved Season 4- Project Runway contestant) Elisa Jimenez speed constructing a bamboo/spandex beach worthy dress for the host. Jimenez herself was wearing her ecology friendly designs and a cool pair of recycled materials’- high top sneakers from the trying to be PC- NIKE juggernaut. (The snazzy footwear line is set to launch in September).

Appropriately wrapped and tied, Oakes then introduced the first lineup by Ekovaruhuset, a Swedish store and design collective that uses only organic materials and “locally produce garments according to Fair Trade guide lines.”

The 37 looks varied in fashionable/quality terms-which makes sense, given the various skill levels of the designers. We could see ourselves in an adorable violet cotton/hemp “wiggle” dress with crotchet trim over the graphic slate cotton leggings by Melissa Kirgan (Look # 18). To ward off the cold- Look # 28, a cozy black wool cocoon coat with ruffle scarf over a cream wool inter-lock sleeveless dress by XingZhen Chung-Hilyard (Look #29) was workably marketable. For day to night, a simple but sophisticated ivory wool jacket with puff back details over tapered long pants (Look #24) by Meiling Chen was fetching. Applause also goes to a 1940’s inspired black wool jacket with hemp/silk charmeuse trim paired- with a matching pencil skirt plus black glass vintage buttons by Amy Mohlenhoff (Look #34).



Ekovaruhuset’s Lower Eastside New York boutique…at 123 Ludlow Street, is now a must stop off the “F” train.





















Next up were 14 outfits by Swedish designer Anja Hynynen , a beautiful gal with a strong handicrafts background. Her timeless refined bearing translated well into her tailored garments of woven tweed Shetland wool fabrics (in collaboration with Scotland’s Isle of Mull organic weavers Ardalanish), knits, and embroidered embellishments.























Our favorite ensemble was the last look- a rocker worthy creamy colored hemp flounce coat/dress that would look perfect on any starlet, or us!




















The fashion brand Righteous is the baby of Paula Kermfors and Kajsa Holst, two Swedish trained human rights lawyers who realized “that they wanted to work more sustainable with development, than what they sometimes experienced in the development-discourse” according to the program notes. For Fall/Winter 2008 the team selected the talented Katarina Vickovic for a tightly edited nine looks that any working gal urbanite can wear. With slim fitting black and rust jersey wool skirts and dresses- the better looks oozed polished chic.

























MAKEUP/MUSIC

Natural skincare and makeup line FACE Stockholm had the models from Click, ID and Red agencies glowing. A special mention goes to their luscious pinky red 25 Ä lipstick, created to celebrate the firm’s twenty-five year anniversary…and to benefit The Lower Eastside Girls Club environmental initiative, “Girls Gone Green.”


We aurally gave credit to the trio of musicians Carlos Vivanco, Mila Watson (from the progressive/psychedelic band Andromeda Crash) and Tor Söderin-for ambient music that kept the beat going for the late start of the show- but didn’t overwhelm us with sonic noise.

JENNI KAYNE-40’S STYLE GLAM

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard
and courtesy of the Designer

Talent Dabs In Simple Hooray For Hollywood Posh

West 10th Street, NYC
February 8th

Jenni Kayne is young and a seasoned fashion veteran toiling away in the garment biz since the age of 19 before launching her own line in 2003. Twenty something celebrity types, when not in rehab, regularly don her clothes.

We feel she’s getting there-and we are getting a sense of what to expect from Kayne...luxe fabrics and updated American classics.

THE SCENE
The place was packed…from spillover of Grande Dame, Donna Karan’s just finished runway show. At first, editors and assorted photographers were huddled in a stately front room where a trio of lovely ladies put a classical spin on Nirvana’s tunes (the mourned and missed, ground breaking Seattle based ‘Grunge’ rock band).


Nothing like listening to Nevermind(’s) smash hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit” as a set-up for a collection. Amusingly for us, editorial chicettes, perhaps because they were still in Brownie uniforms back in 1991, had no idea what compositions were being played. It was all Beethoven to them. Ladies, get a clue…the video is on YouTube.

But we digress.

THE COLLECTION

Once the presentation - a staged format where models posed and perched on slightly elevated platforms was revealed-the eyes took over for the ears. Sightlines aside, the stately West Village drawing room served up a true winter collection largely in fitted black and navy heavy jersey and touchable soft wool fabrics.

The always-popular leopardish print, first made popular by screen siren Sophia Lauren, added elegance and pizzazz- in a draped scarf, a mermaid style skirt, and a gauze square tunic over a black wool mini.

Dress/skirt lengths were varied- one above the knee cocktail length slim wool twill shift with a black mesh boatneck was as ingeniously simple as a classic white cotton shirt neatly tucked into a black jersey high waisted mini, and a long black jersey column gown with dramatic swaths of black velvet that highlights a gal's curves. Ah-the lovely Rita Hayworth must have smiled down from above.

The forties were heavily referenced, mostly by accessory choices of silver fox tie wrap, fur collars, Jenni Kayne for Patricia Underwood fedoras, leather/suede La Crasia gloves, Ben Montoya’s over-sized black sunglasses…and the defined shoulders of loose, double breasted jackets over pencil skirts or drapey trousers.













Grunge may have been on Jenni’s Kayne's iPod…but we feel the vintage inspirations owe more to the glamour of Big Band/torch singer, swank hangouts like the famed NYC Stork Club or chi-chi Hollywood’s Coconut Grove Lounge. In a way, the collection also tipped its hand to American icons; Ralph Lauren, New York based Carolina Herrera, and the 60’s version of movie star Elizabeth Taylor.


Not for everyone, and Kayne will probably be accused of being too referential…but we saw some separates to have and to hold.

SPONSOR WATCH: THE LYCRA® BRAND BRA-SSERIE DURING NY FASHION WEEK

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images of Bra-sserie, courtesy of LaForce & Stevens Public Relations
Image of Hoorah for the Bra, from www.mediastudlife.com


QUESTION: SO, WHAT’S A “BRA-SSERIE”?

ANSWER: A great spot organized by LYCRA® in the Tents to relax or network over a coffee, espresso, cappuccino, croissants and French macaroons. LYCRA® is one of the sponsors of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York, and for the Miami Swim shows in July. Every fashion week, they’re one of our regular pit stops, no matter what their theme is that season. We only hope they’ll have the Bra-sserie again next season!
We met up with Dianne W. Lober, Invista Inc.’s Marketing and Communication Manager at one of the little café tables over a cup of cappuccino and got filled-in on 3 of Lycra’s latest innovations.
Invista is LYCRA®’s parent company.

LYRA: What is BLACK LYCRA FIBER?

Dianne: It provides black in its purest sense. The fiber is actually black. We’ve partnered with La Perla to create a beautiful high-end bra.

LYRA: Innovation #2 is “LYCRA® Fresh Effects”. What’s that?

Dianne: It’s a fresh scent that we’ve put into panties and camisoles & lasts up to 25 washings. It will launch at Kohl’s in May in the Vanity Fair intimates line.

LYRA: Innovation #3 is “LYCRA® Spa Effects”. Is there lavender in it?

Dianne: This is a micro encapsulation benefit that releases throughout the day as you move, as the LYCRA® stretches. It comes in scents including lavender and Aloe Vera.

LYRA: We loved the way “Hoorah for the Bra” looks! You hosted a book signing this week here for it at the Bra-sserie.

Dianne: Yes, Author, Cheree Berry was here signing her book, “HOORAH FOR THE BRA” which talks about the origins of the bra and is a fun book filled with popup and images. Partnering on the book was part of our celebration of the bra’s 100-year anniversary. There’s already been a write-up in the October 2007 issue of Vogue.

For more information on Invista, visit
www.INVISTA.com
To purchase a copy of Cheree Berry’s book, visit
www.amazon.com

KOI SUWANNAGATE LOOKS TO THE BEAUTY OF NATURE FOR FALL 2008

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, J. Ecochard

Time & Place: Tuesday, Feb. 5th, the Meat Packing district, downtown, NYC

This show was an ode to nature, and a beautiful one at that. The tranquil all white Bumble & Bumble space was the perfect counterpart to this lovely nature inspired collection. All of the elements worked together here: from the fluttering hummingbird soundtrack to the sunset colored backdrop down to the Shiseido burgundy and khaki eye shadows Miyako Okamoto and her Shiseido team skillfully blended together to create a sunset effect on the models’ lids. A classic society Kim Novak style beehive hairstylist Ramona created for Bumble & Bumble saved the look from being overly bohemian.

THE VIBE: artsy, in a Marni-esque way, the cashmere was felted giving it a less precious and lady-like appearance than usual. It's something you'd consider wearing out for an autumn stroll and maybe a little bird watching.

NATURE LOVERS take note. You’ll love the hummingbird embroidery and rosettes present on many of the clothes.

THE RIGHT PACING: The models came out at a leisurely pace, which gave us ample time to view the details.

A CALL TO COLOR: While color was used as an accent in many collections, at Koi, color dominated. The orange-reds looked great, especially as in Exit #3, a cashmere wool and cotton trumpet skirt shown with a hummingbird embroidery top as did teal, in the bustier part of some dresses.
When there wasn’t color, there was SOPHISTICATION – a camel cashmere tunic embellished with the signature hummingbird embroidery worn over a pair of fantastic navy silk organza pants.

ACCESSORY ALERT: The shoes by Tango for Koi Suwannagate were interesting and beautiful. The wraparound high-heeled sandals were embellished with feathers and fabric rosettes and the heels were beaded all around – a perfect accent to the clothes!

WHAT WOMEN WEAR MOST-SPANX®

HAUTE COUTURE OF UNDERGARMENTS AKA...Secrets of the Flawlessly Slim

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard

Masters of the “Hide and Sleek”, SPANX has consistently (amazingly) managed to innovate its durable line of supportive undergarments.

During New York’s Fashion Week-the brand corralled the aerie Penthouse of the Bryant Park Hotel-and served up an impressive array of new undergarment designs. Everyone we met was friendly and enthusiastic... no doubt because they BELIEVE like we do.

For as everyone knows, the superb fit, comfort, and detailed construction (no gapping, assorted styles for all body types including pregnant gals and plus sizes, in neutral tones) makes SPANX the leader in foundation wear. Plus, we toss the stuff in the wash, air dry-and every piece we own has retained its shape…a bargain given the reasonable price points.

New For Fall 2008

Back fat! Not a pretty image but a concern for many. Spanx has a new “Slim Cognito Seamless Tank” that targets the mid-section, accentuates the waist, and “compresses the tummy” with a “surged hem” to hold the lace detailed cami in place. (Suggested Retail $74)

The new front closing “Bra-llelujah” gives RIMM’s Blackberries competition for the wireless crowd. Providing true lift without the underwire, this undergarment supports with full coverage for the bashful, without visible bra lines-and with elastic free straps that gets rid of those annoying hooks and adjusters. (Suggested Retail $62)





















A true feat of engineering!

The “Hide & Sleek Slip-Suit” was crafted due to requests from Hollywood stylists for their Red-Carpet clients. It invisibly (no center seam) provides a smooth sleek silhouette from top to mid-thigh-meaning no pinching, binding or bulging. It even has double coverage in the chest area-so a bra is optional. (Suggested Retail $84)

SPANX legwear is phenomenal. Now a new bunch of feminine textured patterns (Fishnet, Floral Cable, Geo Stripe etc) in wear anywhere heather beige, chocolate brown, wine, midnight black, ivory, and charcoal tones- are body shapers that don’t scream SUPPORT HOSE! The company manages to construct the “Tight-End Tights” with moisture wicking yarns that hold because of rounded toe seams.


Since we’ve been occasionally late for things like weddings and funerals because of the dreaded pantyhose crisis- we appreciate- that in our experiences- the practically run free SPANX hosiery lasts.

And the dress adverse might like the “Perfectoe! Trouser Socks” (your toes don’t poke through) or the clever “Two-Timin” reversible socks that come in patterns and different color combos. (Suggested Retail $12)

NO WONDER former salesgirl Sara Blakely’s brainchild is probably worn by more women than any other label that ever walked the runways.

P.S.-The Under Armour brand green-lighted Spandex for boys. We hope SPANX (who really knows women’s bodies) will come out with a line of performance wear to join the rumored sexy high-end line on its debut. PLEASE!!!!

DARYL K-A LITTLE BIT UNDERGROUND REBEL Fall/Winter 2008

A LOT A BIT WEARABLE

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

When the Irish Daryl Kerrigan hit the retail jackpot in the NYC of the late 90’s, hip indie rock-type chicks clamored for the best fitting low-slung pants ever.








A boom, bust and rebirth followed. This year - on February 8th-her downtown 21 Bond Street showroom served as the informal (crowded) setting for a Fall/Winter 2008 collection.


The more casual Kerrigan line (like her old K-189) and her RTW Daryl K line should keep her loyal cult-like fans (think Sonic Youth's Kim Gordon) very happy—and probably garner the spending dollars/euros of a new set of “It” girls.



Modeled by grab off the below 14th Street downtown gals glamorized by Make Up for Ever, -Kerrigan had an urban street sensibility with a side zipped denim biker jacket (timeless), grey belted tunic/sweatshirt like top, multi hued leggings, and a oversized plaid of gray and white fabric used in a deep pocketed dress, jacket and fringy shawl.






Daryl K was more grownup in feel, like the designer herself. With deep ocean blues, dove and charcoal greys, and black as anchor colors, the collection was sparked up with wool, knits, and cotton separates of shocking pink, turquoise blues, teal green, and squiggling prints.





A midnight black alpaca car coat and hoodie, sleeveless jackets and slouchy knit cardigans, seamed mini dresses/tunics with flat metal studs, and soon to be smash selling black stretch leather leggings (WANT NOW) were smart every day to night options. A deep scoop neck/back sleeveless, raw edged black silk “Recession” gown was a fitting final look. And like many collections, accessories were limited to a few belts and ankle boots.










This modern, easy to wear collection with an edge brought back memories of the 80’s still wear it Norma Kamalis. We’ve got room in our closets!

VPL By VICTORIA BARTLETT Fall/Winter 2008

Text by J. Ecochard
Photos by J.Ecochard and Courtesy of the Designer

“MUSCULATURE” –A DRAUGHTSWOMAN DRAMA

February 6th 2008
Bumble and Bumble, NYC

Two things we know we can count on at a VPL Runway show…a rockin’ soundtrack (by Henry Lau and Ben Brunnemer) and deftly cut, seamed color blocks and slashes of clingy fabrics that hark back to Ms. Bartlett’s background designing lingerie and action/performance wear.

This season’s inspiration-according to the run of show notes, comes from two artists; the first, Hans Bellmer was a German Surrealist artist who re-imagined mechanical dolls into “perversely erotic Freudian fairytale(s)”… figuring into the bronze D-Articulation dress (Look #33), the bustier/ bra sets and the brown Armadillo skirt (Look # 14).








The second is sculptor Louise Bourgeois who’s “swelling female forms” and manipulation of “stretch” materials played into multiple looks including the curved sleeve of the jackets and the choice of ultra sheer cashmere and slinky jersey fabrics.


Plus, VPL played on the masculine/feminine contrasts of men’s tailoring with doses of military detailing-and the womanly seamed separates that followed the “musculature” of the body.























As an intellectual exercise, the collection was cerebral (the notes thank "thinking" actress Tilda Swinton)...but even high school drop-outs will find some of VPL’s garb intuitively appealing. We loved the fitted knit wool dresses, smooth sweaters and defining leggings in neutrals like putty, beige, black and tan spiced up with an orangey vermillion and navy. The cuffed, chunky heel black leather boots by Jean Michel Cazabat for VPL fittingly added to the ggggrrrrrrrl vibe of the clothes.




Hair/Makeup

Backstage interviews with hairstylist Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble….and Miyako Okamoto for Shiseido, served up some trade tips.

The slick twist on the often seen ballerina bun was refreshing. Models’ hair was saturated with Bumble and Bumble’s -Bb Styling Lotion and Bb Prep, parted, twisted and pinned-then smoothed over with Bb’s Sumo Wax.



The dewy skin, bare faced “innocent” look was achieved with a soft pearly blush, no eyeshadow with glistening eyelids brushed with sheer lip gloss…and “lot’s of black mascara.” The warm, earthy pink tone of the lips was a custom color but Okamoto noted that Shiseido has a similar “deep fuchsia lipstick that’s softer on the eye than what we are used to seeing.”

MAX AZRIA BRINGS HERVE LEGER TO NY FASHION WEEK

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes Benz

We are always amazed and impressed when a designer attempts to design 2 or more collections. Marc Jacobs continues to do it successfully, and Michael Kors did it well during his tenure at Celine.
Most recently, Max Azria has chosen to challenge himself by adding the celebrated Herve Leger brand to his design duties. Prior to that, he was already designing 2 successful brands: BCBG, and Max Azria.
It takes a special person to take an iconic brand such as Herve Leger and tweak it just enough but not so much that you end up changing its integral DNA. Karl Lagerfeld continues to do this at Chanel and for his first season, Max Azria has done it for Herve Leger.

WHY HERVE LEGER IS NO LONGER BEING DESIGNED BY M. LEGER
This was a bit confusing and bears a short explanation. Below, a timeline of the events that led to the Herve Leger by Max Azria Fall 2008 Collection

TIMELINE
1985: The original Herve Leger house is founded

1998: BCBGMAXAZRIAGROUP acquires Herve Leger fashion house

Early 2007: Max Azria re-launches the Herve Leger label with his own designs

February 2008: Max Azria shows his designs for Herve Leger to the press and buyers at the Bryant Park shows.


THE HERVE LEGER RUNWAY SHOW
This was certainly one of the most anticipated events of this NY Fashion Week. Said a 30-year fashion veteran sitting next to us, “ Here’s major money meeting a major legacy. I’m dying to know what happens!”
Mr. Azria didn’t forget the legacy, at all. The sexy sound track with a throbbing urban beat was what you’d hear at a French club.

The look: Bandages! Or, the “band dress” as these hot little numbers were referred to in the run of show. There were enough to satisfy the most die-hard [original Leger] fan.

What we loved: The mini and midi dress versions, minus the distracting bows and pleated ribbons on the front. These dresses were strong enough to stand on their own. All that was needed were what we’ll call THE SHOE OF THE WEEK – those gorgeous high heeled stamped croco pumps every woman in our row was oohing over.

Ultimate Luxe: Exit #12, this beige cashmere band cardigan worn with a beige bandage and stamped croco belt was an outfit a seventies’ shipping heiress would have adored and gladly worn.
On Trend: Mr.Azria even threw in a jumpsuit, and showed a bridal dress at the end, a trend we haven’t seen in years. Seems this throw-back to the late eighties is catching on again, we saw quite a few other bridal gowns closing shows later in the week.

Mr. Azria's parade at the end showed this to be a cohesive collection and met the necessary high glamour quotient a name like Herve Leger deserves.

THE ARAKS AND MARA HOFFMAN FALL 2008 COLLECTIONS

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes Benz

TIME/PLACE: Bryant Park, Saturday, Feb. 2nd


Bravo to Kelly Cutrone and the team at People’s Revolution for thinking of doing a 2 in 1 show.
It’s expensive to show and there’s a lot to be said for taking advantage of having everyone already sitting in the house. Another bonus, doing it this way saved us time and cut back on the running around that day.

PART I. THE ARAKS COLLECTION

THE VIBE: Sexy Librarian meets the ingénue publishing assistant

CHANNELING: Audrey Hepburn’s character in “Funny Face” before she was transformed by Hollywood’s version of Diana Vreeland and lensman Richard Avedon so winningly played by Kay Thompson and Fred Astaire.

IMPORTANT TO THIS COLLECTION: Silver, graphite, Aegean blue, and sheer fabrications and some GREAT ACCESSORIES, which played a strong supporting role.

In a season of predominantly gray and earth-toned colors [perhaps influenced by the dreary state of the economy] little punches of color like a neon skirt liner seemed just right. Most of the sheer looks were shown unlined, but we’re assuming that they will arrive with at least a partial lining on the retail floor this fall.


ACCESSORY ALERT: The knee-highs with the Scottish Clansmen tassel detail looked good with RACHEL COMEY’S sensible oxfords. Small details such as the retro eyeglasses by Silver Lining Vintage just added to the studious but sexy effect.

PART II. THE MARA HOFFMAN COLLECTION

After a very brief pause following the last Araks exit, we met quite a different woman – the Mara Hoffman woman.
THE VIBE: Rock and roll, tough and sexy, just like the opening soundtrack.

THE COLLECTION’S FORTE: Chunky knits with interesting detailing. We loved them as shown, the models bundled and swathed complete with a cute wool cap and attached hip length scarf.
Also strong was the black and white hostess gown in chiffon with an attached cape/train.
The design duo didn’t show only black and white though, they treated us to a super jumpsuit in absinthe green, THE accent color of the season.
There were some other great rocker girl alternatives for evening, like the black robe dress worn with the sleeves pushed back and pink snake skin leggings.

A HURRAH FOR ACCESSORIES MOMENT: We didn't have many of these this season, but we just loved that sexy Victoria's Secret hair Almog & Mark created for the show paired with old-school gold rimmed Ray Ban Aviators.

www.araks.com
www.marahoffman.com
Eye glasses available at Silver Lining Opticians, tel. 212-274-9191

BILL BLASS- Better Designs Ahead -FALL 2008 REVIEW

Batting Practice For A Season Opener

Text, J. Ecochard

Peter Som did double duty February’s first week-showing his own collection, and then as Creative Director for Bill Blass…staging a large runway show of 47 looks.

The revolving door of designers since the iconic fashion favorite's 2002 death hasn’t stopped various private investors from pouring money into the label…and the Upper East Side clientele from their front row seats. And all the “right” editorial and big name buyers showed up too.

Though one lady of a certain age sniffed “better bridge” we felt the day looks, clearly an homage to Mr. B’s late 60’s/early 70’s classics, were Som’s strongest…featuring Blass’ signature bowties and menswear fabric- as in a shimmery tweed and a tropical wool trouser suits. A black peau de soie trapeze trench was also a winner.

Some pouf like evening separates were less successful as the heavy brocade, sequin fabrics lacked movement and were unflatteringly stiff in a full skirt cuts. Plus, the ostrich feather numbers were too much: Blass often used feathers as a dramatic punch line…that worked.


Given the buzz, we feel Som will be given the opportunity to show a Bill Blass Spring collection-though if we’re hoping for a Galliano/Dior turn-around, it’ll have to be less archival mining and more modern creativity.


Photos courtesy of Dan Lecca, WireImage, and Getty Images

The Fall 2008 REEM ACRA SHOW – Reem’s strongest showing to date

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes Benz

DATE/TIME: Thursday, Feb. 7th, 3:30pm, the Promenade.

Ennio Morricone’s famous score from “The Good, the bad, and the ugly” the 1966 Italian epic spaghetti Western starring Clint Eastwood kicked off the show. The Edith Piaf that played during a good portion of the show went well with the elegance of Ms. Acra’s collection. The high point of this excellent show was the ombre cocktail dress - here was ombre, done RIGHT. She showed rosettes covering a navy capelet as many others did, but it looked well in her collection as opposed to costume-y. As she aptly demonstrates, just a touch works, placed along the placket of her midnight blue cardigan twin set.
The jeweled tones reminded us of those Alber Elbaz used in those wonderful slinky dresses in the ads that hit this winter. Both designers instill a strong [but not obvious] sense of luxury in their collections. Interestingly, while Reem’s known for her beading it was the simpler, unembellished styles that really showed her progression as a Ready to Wear designer.
For those who love ornamentation, not to fear, Reem had a “wow” portion of her program at the end – 10 looks that are Red-Carpet contenders, complete with her signature beading and sequins. Best, the amethyst tulle embroidered dress and ruby red gown.

www.reemacra.com

SPRING 2008 SHOPPING ALERT! GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL JACOBER's Sophisticated and Fashion Conscious Tee -shirts

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Courtesy of Cece Feinberg PR
Spring is coming and even though we’re still reporting on NY Fashion Week, and discussing what we’ll be wearing this fall, there’s THE HERE AND NOW to think about.
With the warmer weather, comes the need to replenish your tee-shirt collection.
At the top of our list are the tees from Paul Jacober’s “Never Mind the Roses” Collection.


Shortly before NY Fashion Week, we visited with PR Maven, CECE FEINBERG, in her new showroom/office at 336 West 37th Street freshly painted in a terrific shade of cotton candy pink.
We’d seen jpegs of the tees, and wanted to see [and feel] them in person. We were NOT disappointed.

WHAT’S SO GREAT: “[This] is the first REAL fashion-take on what some could consider a souvenir shirt.” says Paul Jacober. His collection plays with the wildly popular British imagery craze in a clever tongue-in –cheek way. Paul’s tees are miles removed from those awful fun- at –the- time souvenir tees that always morph into just plain cheesy when you’re back home. Now, you can have the same fun and look stylish. Thanks, Paul!

POINT OF DISTINCTION:
The graphics include: Union Jacks mixed with different iconic imagery such as deer, roosters, a Grace Jones homage, spilled and broken Toile patterns and fancy chandeliers. Available for men and women.
These Tees= vintage undertone + urban sensibility = one great tee shirt you can wear for day or evening, all for $52.

ABOUT PAUL JACOBER:
In Miami, Paul’s a well-known graphic designer with a mission:
To show the world that Miami’s more than just clubs and cars.
Paul started Jacober + Associates in 2000 and has worked with Rubell Hotels, Mark Soyka Restaurants/Properties, Rubell Family Art Collection, and one of our all-time favorite shops, BASE, on Lincoln Road.

WHERE TO GET THEM:
Available at BASE 939 Lincoln Rd, and at BASE in Delano’s lobby, in Miami Beach,
and on Paul’s website, www.pauljacober.com
BASE: tel. 305-531-4982
www.baseworld.com

JEREMY LAING=COLOR BLOCKS x (SNAPS + SPARKLE)

Text and Photos by J. Ecochard

Feb 2, 2008

Bumble and Bumble, NYC


We heard Jeremy Laing was a modern minimalist’ designer. He certainly stayed true to his inspiration- the Color Block/Bauhaus artist Joseph Albers.



The collection - mostly in burnt orange, red RED, inky black, and deep and muted purples, stretch wool and viscose/silk fabrics-was sparked up with metal snaps (looked like grommettes) and Swarovski crystals on the tees, floaty long gowns and shorter cocktail numbers. For winter, it lacked the 'heaviness' of other runway shows.



IMHO…the slim fitted looks worked best. A highlight was a lapped bodice, long sleeve putty wool jersey jacket paired with pants and a deep blue/grey curvy sleeveless bodice dress constructed in panels, the waist accented by two metal snaps.

OHNE TITEL-COZY&COMFY

Wintry Ready-Text and images by J. Ecochard

The Parisian/NY based Alexa Adams and Flora Gill comprising Ohne Titel have come along way from their art gallery, garb hanging on a rack debut last spring.

The runway show downtown started ridiculously late because a model or two were MIA as in probably overbooked (and some complain about Marc Jacobs?)…
but it gave us a chance to spend time backstage admiring the simple knotted/smooth long ponytails created by Leonardo Manetti of Bumble&Bumble and drool over the Cesare Paciotti ankle boots..




















As stated in the collection’s notes, the gals drew “inspiration from Northern silhouettes, German folk shapes, Celtic motifs and jewel-tone marble patterns from Versailles…coupled with sleek, strong suiting and cocooning knits in animal textures.”


















We felt the thirties’ cuts of the strong shouldered, draped, side buttoned camel jacket over loose high waist pants (also in wine and royal blue) and reefer/balmacaan coats would make Katherine Hepburn proud…and would work on the long and the lean.




We really loved (though think we were in the minority) the Scandinavian prints of the graphic marble silk, intricately tucked and draped dress and the patterned cohesiveness of a round sleeve sweater over a graphic jacquard
skirt…all in moody blues, black, white and deep purples that reminded us of twilight in the land of the midnight sun. Perfect for the cold, snowy climes.

Ohne Titel have a certain sophisticated grown-up customer in mind for their clothes…not aiming for the masses…and not easily cloned off by low budget design houses. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

DR. NEIL SADICK's PRESENTATION -THE LATEST IN SKINCARE OPTIONS

Text, J. Ecochard

Remember Moore’s Law?

That’s the oft’ quoted rule that computer chips double in memory capacity every two years…meaning every techno gadget you buy will be outdated in 24 months.

Well, the advances in skin care and body shaping methodologies are nearly as rapid. That’s a good thing. In fact, we feel that we are looking at a near future where the ole’ knock em’ out, stitch it up or suck it out of facial/body contouring-will be as much of a relic as the gloomy lab that came up with the big dude Frankenstein.

At a recent breakfast seminar at the stately Plaza Athénée in New York, our host, the multi-titled dermatologist and researcher Neil Sadick MD, FAAD, FAACS, FACP, FACPh kept our eyes wide open as we took in his fast-paced presentation on the latest scientific breakthroughs. Our summary is a simplification of the hour plus meeting…so naturally, everyone needs to do his/her due diligence. And of course, it’s most critical to engage board-certified/qualified physicians in any treatment option.

Sadick began the seminar with a discussion on the second generation of resurfacing Fraxel lasers…highlighting how skin laxity, acne scaring, redness, and pigment discoloration (including tattoos) can now be “significantly corrected with one treatment” without the two week down time to heal, uneven results or sedation requirements of the old workhorse CO2 laser.

Options he cited included:
Quanta’s Matisse System
Smart Xside Ultraspeed CO2
Fraxel CO2
Q Switch Systems

The second part of the presentation really got our attention. Sadick educated the crowd with the first real (we think) alternative to BOTOX…the GFX Radiofrequency Technology. With a small wand like probe targeting the nerves and inactivating them for a botox-like effect lasting 12-18 months…it takes about 10 minutes to do the entire face. Fortunately, doctors will be able to mark the muscles desired for customized treatments (vary the energy for some facial movement). And yes, the brain is like, THERE- however, the neuro-blocker technology has been successfully used by cardiologists for 15 years. Sadick considers this a “major advance” in the quest to relax the brow’s furrows.

Next up was an upbeat take on the new pliable injectible filler “EVOLENCE/Breeze” by Johnson & Johnson (as long suffering stockholders, we hope so!). Sadick considers this porcine derived collagen an “important filler for lips and nasolabial folds” (the deep folds from nose to mouth). Better yet, Sadick remarked on the filler’s decreased side effects of swelling, discoloration, and bruising-making this a true lunchtime treatment without looking like you’ve been slugged. And it’s been road tested in Europe for years and is undergoing FDA trials.

We know many readers of this site are anti any treatments. But everyone can get onboard with the advanced cosmeceuticals that treat fine lines, wrinkling and discoloration...and are embedded in over the counter serums and creams. Dr. Sadick commented on such powerful anti-oxidants as:

Yquem extract - found in Christian Dior’s L’Or de Vie Eye Crème and anti-aging skin line.
Coffee Berry-thought to be 3x more effective than green tea
Niacinamide-a water soluble vitamin B3 found in some of Proctor and Gamble’s Olay skin care line.


New fat and cellular treatments to sculpt and mold fat via high power energy devices is still in “early pioneering stage…and are promising” according to Sadick. He referenced:
Eleme Medical’s Smooth Shapes a non-invasive laser based system
VelaShape in combination with Thermage,
Alma Accent laser, a non-ablative, non-invasive cellulite treatment based on radio frequency technology with FDA approval
Mesotheraphy (several injections that “melt fat cells”)

Also of interest were the at home devices that Sadick feels are “an important trend.”
The No!No! Hair Removal device that’s a huge Sephora seller, the soon to be introduced No!No! Skin-a broad spectrum light source and heating element to treat acne, and LED home rejuvenation devices with blue/red (acne) and red light (photo-rejuvenation) – are meant to be idiot-proof ways to treat the afflicted. Sadick also highlighted the Clarisonic Skin Care system that Oprah anointed as one of her favorite things.

Sadick wrapped up his informative talk with new advances in treating excessive sweating aka hyperhidrosis (sweaty palms syndrome). In addition to botox, Sadick commented on new “laser assisted ablation” – a “basically painless…5 minute” procedure that curbs “50%-70%” of sweating for 6-12 months.

YIGAL AZROUEL CHANELS THAT SEXY EUROPEAN “JE NE SAIS QUOI” FOR THE FALL 2008 COLLECTIONS

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, Courtesy of Mercedes Benz

Time/Place: Friday, Feb. 1st, @ noon
540 West 21st Street – The Forbidden Zone [bet. 10th & 11th Aves.]

It was a trek in the rain, coming and going to Yigal’s show, but worth every second in the end. In spite of the distant location and the rain, Yigal’s supporters came out and he had a full house.

11:38am- BACKSTAGE
We had just enough time to run backstage, where Yigal was administering the finishing touches on the models queuing up in line for opening looks. All was quiet except for assistants rounding-up straggling models.
From the first look, we could tell that this collection was going to deliver on Yigals’ trademark sexy-artsy vibe. The darkly handsome Mr. Azrouel himself fit right in. His somewhat disheveled appearance [probably from staying-up till all hours working] only added to his appeal.
The smoky eye Polly Osmond and the M.A.C. Pro team did and the pin curl inspired hair Teddy Charles and the Rusk team came up with were interesting, moody, and sexy – just like the collection.

THE YIGAL AZROUEL SHOW – the women’s and men’s collections
We were so engrossed examining Teddy Charles’ work, that the show started before we realized it. Luckily, we were able to secure a standing spot by the beginning of the runway, with as good a view as our assigned seat.
The show was set against a video of a NYC or Paris metro train and stations, adding to the worldly urban feeling.

THE WOMEN

Highlights: Tonal variations on wash dyed fabrics, deconstruction and raw finishes, lots of rich texture, and great styling by Kate Young and Mr. Azrouel.
The women reminded us of French style icon, French Vogue Editor in Chief, Carine Roithfeld, maybe because of the leaner than lean tuxedo pants and high heels and overall body-conscious silhouette. The short pleated skirts looked great with the black tights and stiletto ankle boots. Although many designers also showed nubby tweeds, the play between tougher tweed bottoms and frothy organza blouses was in perfect balance here.
The color palette: moody – mostly black and gray with some wonderfully timed splashes of absinthe green – THE accent color in New York for fall 2008. It looked great just about every which way – in a raccoon vest, a plumed dress and a graceful jersey gown.



THE MEN

Highlights: Yigal men’s is in its 3rd season and kept to its core concept of classic tailoring and utilitarian silhouettes toughened-up through some deconstruction. These looked like clothes a cool guy in the Arts would wear. We liked the eclectic layered looks like exit #31: A cypress garment washed leather bomber, striped rugby shirt, black tee and black cotton tux pants. The men all wore tweed high-tops with a cracked leather toe by Yigal Azrouel for K-Swiss sneakers.


*THE A.L.T. SEAL OF APPROVAL: On our way out, we caught-up with Vogue’s Andre Leon Talley, who loved the absinthe jersey gown and the shorter sequin silver top and skirt.

REBECCA MOSES- WELCOME HOME

Text and Images by J. Ecochard

We felt a connection with the artist Guy Ben-Ner the other night. The 411 on this guy is his and his family’s filmed “performances” in Ikea’s all over the world- taking up temporary residence (sic), improvising some whacky domestic scenarios (until security kicked them out), resulting in the oeuvre “Stealing Beauty.”

A great concept- as we would love to move into any and all of the lovely architectural vignettes staged by the immensely talented and productive fashion/accessories designer Rebecca Moses- that debuted in her brand new showroom with HOMESTEAD LF USA.



The last time Rebecca Moses was on our radar was with her successful collaboration as Creative Director for Saks Fifth Avenue’s “Wild About Cashmere” collection. She’s always been a world traveler, and has been hanging her hat in Milan, including a long stint as designer of Italy’s chic Genny fashion line (replacing Gianni Versace). Lately, the ever elegant Moses must have had spent very little time on the home front because her well attended showroom’s open house (on a seriously snowing February 11th, no less)-had over 1200 want it now items conjured up in four months. Unbelievable!

Seeking to transform “the mundane into the magical” Moses avoids the boring matchy- matchy catalogue syndrome via her extraordinary feel for colors, texture, shapes, and proportion. The collection, a sophisticated pastiche of ethnic and globally nuanced hard and soft goods“With Heart, Soul And Style” is dramatically staged in multi-room displays that have simple luxurious touches; for example, a Garden Room with plush lilac lavender and toile print cushions that loosen up English-like sturdy white outdoor furniture… complete with a glistening table set upon pale celadon green and delicate floral patterned linens. Our favorite East Asian tableau vivant- with a theatrical horn handle, orange leather carryall that anchors the setting- is exotically eclectic but welcoming, sumptuously upscale in feel…and meant for everyday life.




Needless to say, Moses and her team clearly have deep knowledge of where to source the finest mills and manufacturers to produce the brand. Every item is well made/sewn/constructed. This can definitely not be said about the trendy but poorly made furnishings found at some Big Box retail outlets. Even Moses’ china and glass goblets are unique-the pieces would fit right in with anything an individual already owns.


Retail distribution is a work-in-progress. We are confident that this fresh take on how we can express our passion for where we live-is destined for a wide range of outlets.

LYN DEVON FALL 2008-Urban Tough Terrific

Images courtesy of the Designer

We embrace different fashion styles and get the recycled aspects of design.
Influenced by the 40’s, inspired by Chanel, with reference to Vionnet blah, blah, blah.

And probably, the urban chic “Medieval armor” of the Fall/Winter (2008) looks we saw at Lyn Devon’s has antecedents in the eighties/nineties futuristic looks of Thierry Mugler, Anne Demeuelemeester, early Helmut Lang (though the young designer toiled at Zac Posen and Ralph Lauren before hanging up her shingle in 2005).

And yes, Devon made the “tough but elegant” looks her own.

We were a tad nervous on our hike over to 37th street to a right off the West Side Highway, desolate strip of industrial buildings, that pre-Giuliani days, sported working girls and trannies on the prowl.

The Affirmation Arts space was ideal for a fashion presentation…and this one was hopping with an atmospheric soundtrack by Alexander Posell, and populated by the biggest collection of (no doubt) straight businessmen ever assembled for a fashion event. Maybe some private equity-tiers who are funneling boatloads of money into the biz.



The presentation served up 13 looks that were “sculpted and contoured, textured and layered, quilted and corded, then slashed, zippered and snapped.” These were the clothes our gal pals in the music business, architects and artists would wear including what Devon coined a “fencing jacket” in bright Richard Serra Arch orange over a black wool fencing quilted above the knee skirt with a prominent off center gold zipper, …and a Swarovski crystal embellished navy shirt dress titled “Spear”dress with nifty slashes.

We also chatted up the M-A-C cosmetic team who used the company’s Mineralize Skinfinish to stern chiseled effect…though the Groucho Marx eyebrows were definitely an atmospheric touch.

FASHION WEEK Celebrations Vogue/Peroni for SAVE VENICE, 360 Style, eBay's Style Guru

Text and Images by J. Ecochard except as noted

Runway shows are one way to celebrate/re-invent parts of the fashion biz…the design/beauty/styling side of things.

Image of Elettra Rossellini Weidman and Peroni Waiters courtesy of Dan Klores PR



Photography of fashion can be as memorable and groundbreaking. We jumped at the chance to take in the Vogue/Peroni-(the primo Italian beer brewery) opening night party for the exhibit “50 Years of Italian Style….Iconic Images That Go Beyond Fashion And Time” A great cause, Save Venice, was the charitable beneficiary of generous attendees.


Naturally, the jammed to the rafters’ party was full of impeccably dressed Europeans who did not even break a sweat in their tailored threads. A few NAMES including Elettra Rossellini Weidman (who’s Mom, Isabella Rossellini adorned some of our favorite images) and super model/environmentalist Shalom upped the fashionable quota. Definitely a highlight for us.



A few nights later, we tailed it over to a presentation coined 360 Style at the Caravan social space on Great Jones Street. More of a viral marketing soiree than fashion week party, top brands like socially conscious Edun designed by Rogan Gregory and Bono's wife Ali Hewson, the reinvigorated Fred Perry line of street casual garb, and lady-like television's GOSSIP GIRL wardrobe staple Lorick were modeled by good looking young’uns posed in the floor to ceiling windows.

Hair products manufacturer Conair also had a hands on exhibit featuring their new technologically advanced Infiniti™Nano Silver line of hair dryers, heated rollers, and ceramic stylers. Reasonably priced unlike their competitors, there were cutting edge bells and whistles that dry hair faster and safer…and priced about 50% less than competitors.































A next day, mid-day break at the eBay Suite at Bryant Park Hotel gave us a few minutes with eBay Style Director, fashion veteran Constance White. Now that the large auction houses like Doyle’s and Sotheby’s have abandoned their immensely popular but probably not too profitable vintage clothing and textile auctions, eBay has become the global marketplace for used/new garb and collectables. So we asked Ms. White how long does it take for fashions seen on the runway to wind up on eBay?


“We see things from the runway start to appear on eBay within weeks. However, the majority appear around six months later when shoppers are really looking for in-season items” she noted
We also wondered what Ms. White had in mind for eBay’s next step-perhaps a dedicated high-fashion search hub? Her reply was a succinct “You nailed it. I'd love to see a fashion hub. I'd love to see a place where our users can just come for everything fashion - and then be directed to burrow deeper.”

We also queried another eBay rep how the company is dealing with fakes put up for auction and she noted how the online company is working with designers and companies' affected (like Tiffany’s) to eliminate the duds.
Image of eBay Style Director Constance White courtesy of Kaplow PR

NY FASHION WEEK FALL 2008: THE DAILY SUITES - KY ‚ Brand Intrigue ‘ Heat‘ and the Bali Concealers ‚ Bra

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Image of KY ‚ Brand Intrigue ‘ Heat‘, and Cosmic Love Clinic, courtesy of LaForce + Stevens

Time/Place: Tuesday, Feb. 5th, @ 12:00 noon

WHERE: The Penthouse at AKA Times Square, 12 West 44th Street, NYC

In years past, NY Fashion Week has included Valentine’s Day. One year, they even gave us editors a Valentine’s Day kit to make our own Valentine’s cards, and candy hearts were distributed in the Tents, all of which brought back fond memories of 2nd grade, when everyone in the class got a Valentine.

This Season, the companies that showed their latest wares in the Daily Suites had Valentine’s Day in mind.

First stop: the KY ‚ Brand Intrigue ‘ Heat‘ table, where LaForce + Stevens’ Lindsay Porter enthusiastically went through the fun events the brand is doing to promote this “intense warming” personal lubricant. KY ‚ must have had a fashion/artsy crowd in mind when they were at work shooting the campaign. We love the beautiful shot that got a full-page ad in an issue of THE DAILY.

WHERE TO FIND IT:
K-Y‚ Brand INTRIGUE™ HEAT™ is available at drug, food and mass retailers. $15.00-$20.00 for a 2.75 oz bottle.


We liked the idea of the K-Y® Brand LOVE CARS: “A Solution to the Fashion Week Cab Drought.” What a great alternative for getting around the City, if you’re not at the top of a masthead with a company car & driver at your disposal!

The K-Y® Brand LOVE CARS will keep circling the Bryant Park tents and date hot spots until February 14. Flag one down to take you to your desired Manhattan destination – free of charge! Once inside, you’ll receive the latest and sexiest K-Y® Brand product, INTRIGUE™ HEAT™, along with hot tips on how to heat-up on a cold winter night.

Best, though, is the COSMIC LOVE CLINIC™ K-Y® Brand is presenting on Valentine’s Day. If you’re in Town, go!
Below, the 411:
WHAT: Celebrity sextrologists, Stella Starsky and Quinn Cox team up with K-Y® Brand for a FREE Valentine’s Day love reading at their famed Cosmic Love Clinic™. Their love forecast and personal sexual compatibility reading is based on their zodiac signs. Their cosmic love reading gauges a couple’s sexual compatibility.
If you can’t make the event: pick-up a copy of their book “Sextrology: The Astrology of Sex and the Sexes” which combines astrology with psychology to provide intimacy insights and compatibility readings based on zodiac signs.

WHERE: The Cosmo Caravan in Times Square / 45th at Broadway
WHEN: February 14, 11:00 AM – 1:00 PM
WHO’S ALREADY A FAN: Stars like Scarlett Johansson, Kate Moss, Sophia Coppola, Marc Jacobs, and J.K Rowling


THE BALI CONCEALERS‚ COLLECTION: Doing Good and Looking Good

On our way out of the DAILY SUITES, we stopped into the BALI SUITE to have a look at Bali’s latest initiative. Bali’s joined the fight against breast cancer by supporting The Breast Cancer Research Foundation and partnering with Estee Lauder.


WHAT: The BALI CONCEALERS‚ Bra, a sleek body-toned bra with CONCEALING PETALS - invisible on the outside, which completely prevent nipple show-through.
Available in 5 colors including skin tone shades to perfectly match women’s differing skin tones. Sizes span 32C to 44 DDD

OPTIONS: under wire, wire free and minimizer under wire styles


THE BREAST CANCER INITIATIVE: Bali partnered with Estee Lauder. To kick things off, Bali will donate $100,000 to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. 1 in 8 US women has breast cancer.

*BONUS: If you buy a BALI CONCEALER bra, you receive an instantly redeemable free Estee Lauder Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick at select Lauder counters while supplies last.

WHERE TO GET IT: Available in stores as of Jan. 1st, 2008.

PRICE: from $32 – 34.

For further information on Bali and The Breast Cancer Research Foundation respectively, visit:
www.balicompany.com
www.bcrfcure.org

BACKSTAGE BEAUTY AT THE FALL 2008 MERCEDES BENZ NY FASHION SHOWS:

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Backstage Image of Dick Page at work, Shiseido inspiration board, and Gordon Espinet with brush, J. Ecochard
Portrait of Ted Gibson, courtesy of Blue Sky Public Relations
Face chart and backstage image of model at Lela Rose, courtesy of beauty.com


MAKEUP MASTER#1, DICK PAGE, Artistic Director for Shiseido the Makeup
THE SHOW: United Bamboo

TIME/PLACE: Saturday, Feb. 2nd @ 1:00pm
The Altman Building, 135 W. 18th Street

THE DIRECTION: This was a no brainer for Mr. Page, as he’d already done this look before, in an editorial of Self Service Magazine. Mr. Page, laughed, “Oh yeah, I can do THAT!” when the designers requested the teenage girls playing with bold makeup crossed with going to the disco look. Central was Shiseido Hydra Powder cream to shadow eye shadow in “Clover Dew” [H13] The color lasts an impressive 8 hours and the moisturizing effect increases significantly after 4 days of use. The cream to shadow goes on very smoothly and has proprietary technology only found in Shiseido products. The formula is made possible with Shiseido’s exclusive W/O Solid Emulsion Formula Mechanism.
Add lip balm and the look is complete.

ABOUT DICK PAGE: Fast Facts

After breaking into the beauty biz in London and working with top talents [fashion stylist Melanie Ward, and photographers Corinne Day, David Sims, Juergen Teller, Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin and just about any famous fashion photographer you can name] on countless Vogue, W, and Bazaar editorials, Page joined Shiseido Company Ltd. His first assignment: to take charge of developing the pre-existing INOUI line, a premiere cosmetics brand sold in Japan. He became INOUI’s Artistic Director in 2002 and helped transform and completely redesign the line, which was entitled, INOUI ID.
Last year, Page was named Artistic Director for Shiseido the Makeup, [Shisedio’s global color collection].
In spite of his impressive CV, Mr. Page is a down to earth guy who offers like-minded advice in his column in Allure, “The Makeup Guy”, dedicated to advice on color tips and trends.


ON DICK’S RUNWAY SHOW ROSTER FOR Fall 2008:
Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs, and United Bamboo, & that’s just in New York!


PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Shiseido Hydra Powder cream to shadow eye shadows retail for $23 each, 4 new shades available for Spring/Summer 2008.
www.sephora.com

MAKEUP MASTER#2, GORDON ESPINET, Executive Director, M.A.C. New York

THE SHOW: Three As Four
TIME/PLACE: Saturday, Feb. 2nd @ 6:00pm
The Altman Building, 135 W. 18th Street

THE DIRECTION: Says Gordon, “It’s about radiance! It’s about, ‘Wow, those girls who have just come in from the cold are healthy and gorgeous.

GET THE LOOK: We chose this one because it’s easy.

To achieve the glow, apply M.A.C. mineralized blush [the 2 shades haven’t even been named, but will be available at M.A.C. counters this fall.

FOR THAT POP OF COLOR AROUND THE EYE: use Gordon’s new obsession, FAN BRUSH #205 to line eyes with M.A.C. fluid line in bright cobalt blue.


ABOUT GORDON ESPINET - FAST FACTS:
This Trinidad native is the Executive Editor for Makeup Artistry for M.A.C. Cosmetics and one of the most quoted and liked beauty guys in the industry. His upbeat attitude and witty quotes make any backstage he’s at a pleasure to be reporting on.
For some great quotes, visit www.thinkexist.com
Gordon’s famous for connecting with the real women who love and buy cosmetics too. Last Fall, Gordon and Mary Alice Stephenson, host of VH1’s “American’s Most Smartest Model” conducted a satellite media tour from a NY studio that taught women how to get the runway look-from fashion trends to makeup ideas – head to toe.
M.A.C. products available on www.maccosmetics.com

HAIR GURU TED GIBSON, Editorial Star and Owner of the Ted Gibson Salon
THE SHOW: Lela Rose
TIME/PLACE: Sunday, Feb. 3rd, @ 10am


THE DIRECTION: “Jerry Hall meets Park Avenue.” Two words: very luxe.
Ted boiled the look down this 1/2 up 1/2 down style for us into 3 steps.

STEP #1: Use Ted Gibson BUILD IT– a blow drying agent to prep and protect your hair before drying your hair – always a good idea.

STEP#2: Wipe hair with Ted’s Cool Must-Have Product, - Ted Gibson HAIR SHEETS. They're a MUST for for anyone who spends time on an airplane.
Ted used the hair sheets on the models’ over-stressed hair to give them a deep conditioning treatment in a jiffy. The single-use sheets contain a unique formula of amino acids, vitamins, extracts and oils resulting in glossy, polished hair.

STEP #3: After twisting half of the hair into an updo, keep it looking that way with Ted Gibson BEAUTIFUL HOLD, a spay that actually smells pleasant.


ABOUT TED GIBSON: Fast Facts
Ted Gibson is one of the most sought-after editorial, runway, and celebrity hair stylists in the business. His work has appeared in: Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire, Vanity Fair, Cosmopolitan, Rolling Stone, and Allure and he’s worked his magic backstage at runway shows such as Chanel, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana. Ted’s also a sought-after celebrity stylist. Just a few heads he’s beautified: Angelina Jolie, Amanda Bynes, Demi Moore, Renée Zellweger.


Ted Gibson’s Salon is located at 184 Fifth Avenue, 2nd floor, NYC.
Tel: 212-633-6333


For a more complete profile of Ted Gibson, visit www.jedroot.com

THE OTHER HALF OT THE BACKSTAGE BEAUTY EQUATION AT LELA ROSE was the makeup that went with the “Jerry Hall Meet Park Avenue Look.”

Celebrity Makeup Artist and Beauty.com spokesperson TINA TURNBOW created this look using products by NARS based around a teal color that was a staple in Lela’s collection.
*An added bonus – teal looks good on everyone!

HOW TO DO IT:
- Smudge NARS Kaliste Liner around the eyes.
- Apply Nars Duo in Paris to smoke out the eyes using a NARS #12 brush.
- Apply NARS Crazed Blush to the cheeks with the NARS #6 Blush brush.
- Finally, coat lips with NARS Rose Birman and Greek Holiday.


All Ted Gibson products and all NARS products Tina used available on www.beauty.com

LEIFSDOTTIR-Flirty, Feminine Frocks!

Unpronounceable But A Memorable Presentation
Text, Photos by J. Ecochard

It’s rare…but once in awhile we go to a fashion presentation without a clue as to what we might see.

That’s how we felt when we trooped over to the 38th Street showroom to preview the new collection of Leifsdottir-helmed by the creative design team of giant retailer, Urban Outfitter’s Anthropologie. (For Spring '09 preview click here)

For Fall 2009 Click Here That company we knew- as our nieces spend serious bucks at the hip, local for them lifestyles store.

When we stepped into the brightly lit showroom, we were happily surprised and it wasn’t just the delish rosé champagne and sugary sweets that did it. We loved what we saw.


Naysayers probably felt the garb wasn’t very wintry but we felt world traveler aka Executive Design Director Johanna Uurasjarvi (from Finland) solidly found a niche for “the girl who grows up” and wants a bit more “chic, iconic novelty pieces” in her wardrobe. Think what fashion house Tocca stood for when steered by Dutch designer Marie-Anne Oudejans. And when the clothes ship in August, they will be perfectly timed for those warm temps that seem to last way into November these days. After all consumers buy what they need in the moment they need it.


With lovely “Wishing Well Chinoisserie” fabrics of silk and “Autumn Bouquet” cashmere-what really did it for us were the details…the huge floral green buttons of a sunny yellow knit sweater- inspired by antique earrings, the delicate ruffles on a black gold buttoned skirt, the graphically and perky brightly printed yellow, gray, orange, red floral “Helsinki Collection,” the Asian-French romantic collage of well cut skirts and trim purple and creamy blue trench coats with flirty folds… all separates wearers will keep.



Reasonably priced from $100-$500 retail (average $220) with a June 30th 2008 ship date, we feel the collection is anything but “bridge.”







Here’s hoping Leifsdottir finds its way to a local Bloomingdales and Nordstrom's. Also available at Bergdorf Goodmans-NYC

CARRY ON SAMSONITE’s BLACK LABEL

New Luggage Collection-Chloe Included

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard

Wow-we were so wanting the new limited edition luggage collection by Samsonite Black Label , it was tough to walk out of NY's Bryant Park Hotel’s Cellar Bar empty handed after the February 5th presentation. The bags really made us want to travel but forget about checking in the stylish carryalls-if you want them when you get to your destination.

Quentin MacKay, Samonite’s Global Creative Director has sure best sellers with the 1920’s/30’s inspired, durably handmade uprights, beauty case, and trunk featuring handsome silver finish hardware (TSA functionable!) with the Heritage Black set…and shiny gold finish hardware with the Steamship Cream versions.

The interiors were lined with colorful nostalgic flower prints or exotic travel labels… and sport functional touches such as pouches and canvas shoe/laundry bags, interior mirrors, inside pockets, removable shoulder straps etc.

Plus, the hardest working talent Chloe Sevigny popped in to talk about the line after her fashion label Opening Ceremony’s Webster Hall soiree the night prior and shooting advertisements all day for Uniqlo.









No wonder she looked a bit fatigued.

IODICE's HOT HITS Fall 2008

LET’S GET THIS PARTY STARTED!

IODICE ‘s BRAZILIAN Creations


It may have been a knitwear company back in the 1980’s, but Valdemar Iódice and his eponymous fashion company has turned the now New York based collection into a sophisticated line for modern feminine ladies with “beautiful bodies” who like to dress up for a night of clubbing.

We knew we were in for something special when an exuberant well-dressed crowd, chattering away in Portuguese, packed the Bryant Park Tents on Monday, February 4th…though most Americans we spoke with hadn’t a clue as to who or what Iódice is.

We loved the black patent leather trench and motorcycle jacket, silky and slinky draped black and swirling Op-Art floral black/white and red/white print mini dresses…and deep blue sleeveless bias cut sleeveless sheaths-which frankly, were reminders that the southern hemisphere (and global warming stricken northern climes) experience summery temperatures when these clothes are set for delivery.

The runway notes titled the collection “Graffiti-Street Art” and added “…the glamorous and sexy silhouettes are reminiscent of the classic bombshell-look in each garment.” We thought the looks had a bit of 80's Madonna going on...

Party on!

Retail-Saks Fifth Avenue

Text by J. Ecochard
Photos by Getty Images and Nicholas Roberts for www.Coutorture.com

ROAM AROUND THE WORLD WITH PORTS 1961 by TIA CIBANI

Text, Backstage Photos by J. Ecochard

We always look forward to the Ports 1961 runway collection; a showroom presentation some three years back put the brand and its charming designer- Tia Cibani -firmly on our radar.

Always inspired by global destinations, Ports 1961 zeroed in on the Celtic tradition for Fall 2008... and whimsically tapped fairy tales with a decidedly Gaelic twist.

We love the "moody winters of the Scottish Highlands" color palette of jewel tones, forest and delicate greens, and an intense “tomato” red throughout the largely slim fitted ensembles in wools and warm velvets. Plus as Cibani noted in our backstage interview, her clothes are “real and sensible” with an emphasis on “quality fabrics…hand-painted details…that are well researched and sourced from European and Asian mills.” No wonder Ports 1961 prints are so original: oriental and european at the same time...capturing the essence of the painter Whistler's glorious "Peacock Room" that has (mercifully) been preserved by the Smithsonian Museum.

We felt the delicate wool dress in forest moss green, and the lovely fitted pants ensembles (particularly a fitted jacket with tailored stove pipe pants in dove grey plus a fake fur wrap)... would journey well in first class.


Images Courtesy of Getty Images




Additionally, Ports 1961 debuted accessories that “make it (the collection) special” including the unusual detail of surgical rubber bows on the pump shoes.















In a romantic and mystical beauty note, this year’s glistening eyes and matte, neutral lips/face were given a special Ports 1961 twist by M-A-C makeup artist Isabelle LePage. Eyes literally popped with a berry lip gelée brushed on lids- then the whole look was topped off with pinkish cellophane plastic cut-outs applied on top. It worked on the runway though we feel the shiny hairstyles of lush tousled waves... and the pearly opal nail polish by Creative Nail Designs- will gain eager trend followers.

RAG & BONE’s REGALIA

Fall 2008 Runway Show in New York

Modern Collection of Street Chic

Text, J. Ecochard,
Photos Courtesy of Getty Images

We were told that the inspiration for David Neville and Marcus Wainwright- Rag & Bone’s spot-on Fall 2008 collection was the Ridley Scott helmed blockbuster “Blade Runner”- but we were reminded of the Broadway hit Rock musical “Spring Awakening” …in a good way.

It was a rainy New York Friday on Feb 1…and though the cavernous event space Cipriani’s on 42nd street across from Grand Central Station was warm …it's also a bit dark and gloomy. But moods went up a notch when the breezy supe’ Giselle bopped into the front row.

Moods were elevated even more by the knockout runway show that banished memories that this duo primarily was known for denim attire.


Some favorite looks for guys were a sharp-shouldered royal cashmere MAC coat over fitted black jeans and a grey pinpoint cotton shirt-a perfect blend of military and hip.
A double-breasted black tuxedo look complete with black tuxedo shirt and dark herringbone wool pants was also handsome.

The ladies rocked in a black wool duffle car coat over a shiny black silk tuxedo shirt and deep black Jodhpur cut leggings. And a black leather tunic dress and a sparkling black crystal cigarette dress… plus the cool black knit/leather leggings rooted the collection in 2008-and not the drab fifties-inspired silhouettes that pranced down some runways.

PROPER PERRY ELLIS-FALL 2008

Practical and Appropriate
Text and Photos by J. Ecochard


We can always tell a runway show from a publicly traded company.

On the one hand, the collection will be a somewhat or completely over the top, buzz-generating performance, the front row stacked with Celebs…because the main goal is to sell high-margined perfume, make-up and accessories-at full retail price. That’s why the writers-strike, idled TV stars were paid to adorn Row A, and did. What else are they good for during the production layoffs…campaigning?

Another avenue, particularly in men where the “It” bag of the season doesn’t exist, is to put on a production packed with the garb guys will wear-with styling realistic, and few chances taken.


Much like the Patrick Robinson’s designed Gap collection, (yes he used to helm Perry Ellis women); Perry Ellis’ Men’s Fall 2008 collection was all about the casual refined gentry set…with an ‘a hunting we will go’ theme. Even the backdrop was crowned by antlered bucks (which we fear were the real deal).

The first few looks set the tone… punctuated by practical green wellies strutting down the runway, a thick charcoal gray, cashmere Donegal cable stitch long cardigan, tasteful wool herringbone blazers cut in a slightly more fitted American mode with defined but not boxy shoulders, and single breasted…and one well groomed model after another taking their turn down the catwalk.

Looks real men will wear included:

Thick Irish cable knit pullovers, vests, v-neck and long cardigan sweaters in autumnal tones (deep forest green, dark chocolate brown, sienna burnt red etc).

Slim cut gray wool or glen-plaid flat front trousers-some cuffed but not the ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS SHRUNKEN SILHOUETTE OF LAST SEASON (courtesy of menswear designer Thom Browne of over two years ago) THAT NO ONE OVER THE AGE OF TWO LOOKS GOOD IN.

Thick, sturdy long winter coats, wool Donegal hunting jackets and a plush leather bomber jacket- with military touches (epaulets, leather elbow patches, side pockets on sleeves for a pack of cigs) in charcoal gray, navy and deep chocolate brown respectively- to wear over suits or weekend clothes.

And a few evening separates in a purple ‘velvet’ color (a poly/nylon parka, “waistcoats,” ties) added a hint of glamour.


Finally, long thick wool scarves, bomber hats, and chunky knit caps to bundle up in completed the casual attire.

Think country squire not urban swagger.

THE EARTH PLEDGE SHOW – DEFINITIVE PROOF THAT ECO FASHION IS ON ITS WAY

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, J. Ecochard

Time and place: New York Fashion Week, Thursday, Jan 31st, @ 6:00pm

Location: Gotham Hall, 985 Sixth Ave (36th Street)

THE EARTH PLEDGE SHOW EARNED A FIVE STAR RATING IN OUR BOOK, meaning all of the elements came together to produce a top-notch show.
The event worked because some very major industry players got behind it. It took Julie Gilhart, Barney’s Fashion Director, getting on the phone to the designers to get this plane to take off. As Ms. Gilhart remarked to Eric Wilson, in the Feb. 1st edition of The New York Times, “Sustainable fashion has all the makings of a trend, but we know now it’s a movement.”
Once that was done, Earth Pledge [a nonprofit group that promotes sustainable technologies] was able to go forward and begin organizing the show, reasonably confident that this one would receive more attention than the one they did a few years ago. Their Future Fashion Initiative addresses sustainability by helping the fashion and home furnishing industries make the transition to green materials and processes.


This was a five star production, all the way, from the clothes, to the creative talent [Vogue stylist Brana Wolf, Shiseido Creative Director, Dick Page, and the best models in the business: Super Shalom Harlow and Guinevere Van Seenus who are eco and organic lifestyle enthusiasts, as well as many of the current “it” models who regularly appear on the pages of Vogue and in the major RTW campaigns such as Caroline Trentini and Julia Stegner.

While the day clothes were more than okay, it was the eveningwear that really hit the mark. There were breathtaking evening gowns at the end from Ralph Lauren [hemp/silk], Donna Karan [sasawashi and peace silk], Versace [hemp/silk] and most notably Martin Margiela’s navy ball gown.

AWARD FOR MOST BREATHTAKING OUTFIT goes to Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal O Collection on Shalom Harlow; a ball gown of three vintage wedding dresses draped and stitched onto a vintage bustier.

THE AWARD FOR MOST CLEVER OUTFIT goes to Michael Kors for his the recycled cashmere striped sweater dress and scarf, probably sewn-up from samples laying about the design studio over the course of an afternoon. Seriously though, more designers should follow Mr. Kors’ lead and simply reuse the fine quality materials and garments that are at their immediate disposal. It may have been “recycled” but the dress looked every bit as good as a “new” Michael Kors Collection piece.

The looks from the show will be in the Barneys Madison Avenue windows from Feb. 1 through Feb. 21.

www.barneys.com
www.earthpledge.org

BACKSTAGE BOYS

NAUTICA AND R.SCOTT FRENCH- Backstage at New York's Fall 2008
Fashion Week Bryant Park Tent Venues

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard

Yes, they are better looking.

Even with early AM start times (which means some of the guys had to arrive at 8:15 AM) all the young dudes looked picture perfect to us when they breezed in backstage at the Bryant Park Tents.

Sure, there were neutral toned cover-ups dibbed and dabbed on…and some sweet pink blush brushed applied on chiseled cheek bones at Nautica.





















Trust us... Bravo’s “Make Me A SuperModel” contestants and other guys modeling R. Scott French's terrific collection all looked like winners!

R.SCOTT FRENCH MENSWEAR – the preview at the Atelier

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes Benz

Time: Sunday, Feb. 3rd,
Place: The Atelier, 485 Seventh Avenue
After previewing the collection 24 hours before the Bryant Park runway show, we felt that Mr. French’s time had finally come. He’s been working quietly away in his Seventh Avenue offices with a small team of dedicated workers, doing all the right things, hitting the road doing trunk shows and growing his business rather than indulging in big splashy runway extravaganzas. He also runs a tight ship, as the company owns their own factories in China.
It made sense though that after years off the NY Show Calendar, he’s decided to show at Bryant Park again.
Mr. French is possibly the most gracious designer we’ve met in 15 years. While a great personality is a plus, he can also crank out the clothes men [and women!] want to wear.
There were three of female editors at the preview, and each gravitated to one of Scott’s 3 lines. He cuts slim, so ladies, you can wear these clothes in a size Small.
In this dicey economic climate, Mr. French has the good sense to hedge his bets and isn’t putting all of his eggs in one basket. Instead, he’s designing for 3 kinds of men. He divided the 68 runway looks into 3 distinct personality profiles, with price points to match.

Profile#1:: “the Producer: the RICHARD HARRIS collection.
Look here for warn and nubby suitings that have a conservative bent to them.
Price point: $600-1,000, selling at Federated AA stores.



Profile #2: “The Performer”, the LTD BY RSF collection.
Fabulous linings, eye popping color and excitement, lots of layers, and distressed details. Akon’s a fan.
What it’s about, says R. Scott, is “the whole clashing of cultures that is going on in the world today.”
Selling at hip boutiques around the country.

Profile #3: “The Director”, the R.SCOTT FRENCH collection. These are clothes for the thinking man made from the finest fabrics available. The black tux suit he showed us was Prada, only better.
Price point: $900-1500 for a suit.
Available at Takashimaya.

WHAT’S NEW is that R. Scott has incorporated a high tech element previously only found in performance wear. KLIMEO TECHNOLOGY was created by French fabric house Avelana and Roudiere. The “thermoregulator” fabric line, which absorbs ambient thermal changes and offers a garment keeps its wearer at a similar temperature regardless of the weather – much cooler in summer or much warmer in winter for 45 minutes from the time you first put the garment on.
As always, R. Scott French signature details were present on the garments, Hermes orange stitching, and a rock and roll vibe, especially in LTD BY RSF.

You can view more of R. Scott French’s designs on the following website:
www.rscottfrench.com

To read more about Klimeo Technology, visit www.gizmag.com.
www.gizmag.com

THE NAUTICA RUNWAY SHOW – FALL 2008

THE NAUTICA FALL 2008 COLLECTION

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz

8:45AM - BACKSTAGE AT THE NAUTICA SHOW

THE MAKEUP: CHANNELING JFK, THE SPORTSMAN

One of our favorite makeup artists, Art & Commerce’s MARC CARRASQUILLO, was backstage turning the band of handsome models into Modern day versions of JFK, as he appeared in those iconic photographs we all love, handsome and sunburned after a day of sailing off the Hyannis family compound.

This season, Mr. Carasquillo married the JFK image with the house’s theme: ICE SAILING, for those who don’t know, it’s “a really expensive new sport”.

Mr. Carasquillo decided to focus on skincare, using products from the Dr. Hauschka line.

HOW TO GET THE MODERN DAY JFK SPORTSMAN LOOK:

Marc used:
-Dr. Hauschka eye solace eye mask
-Dr. Hauschka.Quince Day Cream
-Dr. Hauschka lip balm

If you don’t have time to go ice sailing but want to look handsomely wind burned:

Try 8-hour cream [for shine] with a little bit of red cream from Makeup For Ever.

9:30AM - THE NAUTICA RUNWAY SHOW


The house theme: water.


While a Nautica show is somewhat predictable, theme wise, these ARE clothes that a lot of guys don’t mind wearing, and the price point isn’t prohibitive.
Nautica is consistent, which is comforting to their American male audience. Americans thrive on consistency, why else do so many seek out the familiar [McDonald’s, Starbucks] while abroad?
The ideal Nautica man has 3 primary aspects to his personality: the athlete, the spectator, and the successful businessman. He’s a guy who engages in high-end sports when he’s not in the boardroom taking care of business. Nautica clothes are “easy”; it’s rare that anything looks contrived. For fall, Creative Director, MIRIAN LAMBERTH infused the clothes with that appealingly sexy JFK style glamour.

At Nautica, count on:

-Chunky cable knit sweaters,
- Pops of color via yellow sport pants
- Fleece pullovers, striped tops and scarves
- Performance sport items
- Casual jackets and unfussy evening suits such as the closing [and best] look, which successfully combined the sporty and the serious, a black double breasted tux worn with a white nylon windbreaker, white cotton dress shirt and white silk bow tie.

www.nautica.com
www.peacefulcompany.com for Dr. Hauschka.com.

DOUGLAS HANNANT FALL 2008

TASTEFUL LUXE QUIETLY

TEXT, PHOTOS BY J. ECOCHARD


A 'hard rain was gonna fall' and did on Friday, Feb. 1st-the first official day of Fall 2008 New York Fashion Week. Once inside the spacious, old-fashioned Hudson Theater on 44th street, we were rewarded with a mid day show that boasts sophisticated cashmere coats, fitted dresses and tastefully draped gowns by society fav Douglas Hannant, sleek Ballerina bun hair by Edward Tricomi ( Warren Tricomi Haircare ), Cargo Longo of Vincent Longo wheeling a deep smoky eye and dewy soft lips…and the very busy Jan Arnold and her team from Creative Nail Designs painting the shapely talons.

It was also a thrill to see the fashion stylist/journalist/veteran Polly Mellen backstage editing the show with her trained eye. And though there were many empty seats…(the weather, perhaps)…the ‘right’ people were there, Tim Gunn, Nina Garcia, some of the middle aged Park Avenue set etc.


The clothes themselves gave Hannant’s upscale clientele the looks they want. Luxurious fabrics (satin, silk) with just the right amount of sequin and shot through with silver lurex- were in the long, skillfully cut gowns. Outfits appropriate for lunches at Swifty’s or dinner at , La Goulue, the Upper East side haunts of this set, can include a Prince of Whales three piece suit or a Poiret-esque white silk organza ruffle blouse over slim black glazed pants.

We felt there were very few missteps- as pared down, grown-up chic seem to rule the roost-and worked best. Even female politicians would look serious and feminine in these looks.

Beauty: A special note on beauty. With talk of recession, hair and make-up seems to take on even more importance. Hair is neat and controlled (no flyaways here), shiny and conservative-in Ballerina buns pinned well enough to survive a few pirouettes across the stage. side parts.
Eyes really popped in the smoldering dark, lined eye which took us back to the music video “Addicted to Love” glamazons. But lips were a soft rosy pink in a color that works on several skin tones. Even the nail colors (with working titles staight out of an automobile factory like Silver Chrome, Gold Chrome, Dove Grey, a burnished Burgundy Brown…and a Black with silver dusting) –an edgier mood than the sweet, girly looks of last year. As Jan Arnold remarked- Creative Nail was going for a “distressed leather” feel, no shine but a thick texture. We thought of the movie “Sin City”

THE GAP's FALL 2008 GAPS UP ON OPEN! PATRICK ROBINSON UPDATES AMERICAN CLASSICS

Anna Annoits

Patrick Robinson’s Gorgeous Gap Collection

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard

EVP of Design for The Gap, Patrick Robinson has returned to the States, generating the positive buzz he earned as designer for Perry Ellis, back in the day. His re-interpretation of the must haves of classic American sportswear are winners- and were shown to an approving packed house at Exit Art's Tenth Avenue gallery space on a sunny Sunday, Feb 3rd. Many were all a'twitter with chatter that the Anna herself previewed the collection.


We loved all of the head to toes looks. And why not?...so effortless, tasteful, comfy, not forced...HELLO LIFESTYLE BRAND. There is no mistaking these looks for those of a European house.


Sure to sell outfits started on the ground with the new Pierre Hardy jodhpur and desert boots for men and women that anchored many of the looks.
Other fit right in garb staples to join wardrobes next Fall are sure to be the sleek, layered casual looks for gals comprising the new/old flared from the knee- denim and corduroy pants, charming drop-waist, loosely tied dresses, yummy waffle weaved sweaters, slim fitted cargo pants and the side pocketed khakis, and washed leather jackets…all in warm earth tones, soft plummy purples and heathered grays, deep dashes of autumnal brown... and match anything beige.







This is practically as close to idiot-proof dressing as one can get.




For guys, there were sexy low-rise straight fitted jeans and cords for play- as well as classic khaki pants and washed down oxfords for work. Two button blazers in tweedy wool and corduroy, quilted nylon jackets and vests, long cardigans (popular for guys this year), and hoodies offer toasty alternatives to keeping warm. Flattering hues in teal, burnt siena, citron and several muted plaids managed to be fresh without being tacky glaring…in keeping with The Gap’s tradition of dressing hipsters as well as the want to blend into the background types.











Now, it looks like Eddie B., Abercrombie, Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters etc finally have another ready to step into the ring competitor...though Gap is much more of a mass retail juggernaut than all of the aforementioned.

Miss Sixty's Near Miss

Fall 2008 Runway Review

Text, Photos by J. Ecochard


We get the cross-cultural influences.

And having lived in Europe, we always find it ‘adorable’ the way the French or the Italians can grab onto a distinctly “American’ concept and make it their own.

At Miss Sixty however, we thought they largely missed the mark in the over-styled show…and the tepid applause leads us to believe we were NOT ALONE! (Mercifully, we made it home for that fab Superbowl game).


As backdrop to the show, images of a bunch of Tom Wolfian “Electric Cool-Aid” Ken Kensey's/Merry Pranksters School buses headed the runway…though liner notes paid tribute to Mick Jagger’s “Performance” role. The confusing mix of Glam/ Boho…and hippy dippy ended up looking like our youthful shopping sprees through the flea markets of the pre-gentrified Lower East Side.

Whether tweeners and teenagers will cough up serious money to dress up like their parents (or grandparents) –in a chubby fake fur green, black trim bolero jacket, a purple corduroy high waisted or navy wool cuff shorts, a decent enough black/grey stripe twill vest, and a black nylon motorcycle jacket, floppy hats, chunky buckled boots etc, might depend on the depth of their elders’ closets and how high the price points are. Some pieces were Cute…but we feel the blue denim jeans were the highpoints and think Miss Sixty's strength is that category.

LEWIS CHO AND ELIE TAHARI FALL 2008

AUTUMN ELEGANCE-URBAN CHIC

Text, Elie Tahari Photos by J. Ecochard
Lewis Cho images courtesy of the Designer

To get into the fashion mindset, we cruised through the 75% off sales rack at Barney’s NYC…to see what the free-spending Europeans left behind. Curiously enough, the editorial darlings including Lanvin (shapeless cuts, exquisite fabrics), and a solid rack of pricey Isabel Toledo for Anne Klein…were left.



A week later, New York’s Fall 2008 collections are underway. IMHO, the looks so far are stylish, cut well, and will make women feel beautiful. We don’t anticipate these clothes left to dangle by the end of the season.

To start off we went to preview Lewis Cho’s collection on January 29th. The deceptively not so simple silhouettes combine a subtle Asian/ French aesthetic, that reminds us of the Japanese duo comprising United Bamboo. We truly admired the softly draped wool jersey dresses in teal green, deep lavender and charcoal grey with black diamond inserts…that are indicative of a designer who knows how to drape. Pure, clean feminine touches of a cascading ruffle and gently gathered neckline folds are flattering, and add enough interest without being girly/frilly.


Yesterday, we took in Elie Tahari’s signature collection that was handsomely showcased in his aerie 42nd Street showroom. Both men and women’s looks were on display…but it was the sophisticated ladies who really stole the show.

With a nod to jet set, 70’s after skiwear (similar to what Michael Kors always does) and the classic glamour of Kate Hepburn’s Hollywood, we felt the luscious chunky white knit wrapped sweater (the new jacket) over slim black pants, fitted body conscious leather wrapped jackets over slim wool skirts and a striking body conscious wool dress in a plumy deep purple, a big fur vest belted over high waist wide legged trousers…as well as a elegant suede and bejeweled shoes, will easily curry favor with the chic urban set desiring forever looks. Even tight-fisted women will whip out their credit cards for key pieces.