Thursday, September 25, 2008
STEINUNN: SOPHISTICATED TEXTURES AND CONTRASTS FOR ELEGANT RTW
ICELAND’S EARTHY COLORS IGNITE A SUMPTUOUS COLLECTION
September 5th, 2008 Katie Murphy Amphitheater, FIT-West 28th Street, NYC
Words, Images by Judith Ecochard, and courtesy of Steinunn (by Mary Ellen Mark)
Steinunn Sigurd is a clothing designer that has a cult status amongst the international fashion set.
A knowledgeable veteran of the biz via her master-knitting prowess (she has worked for Tom Ford- at Gucci, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren in this capacity…and headed up La Perla’s RTW line in Europe)…Steinunn crafts meticulous feminine garments with an almost intellectual rigor (IMHO)… that we find to be stylish and stunning.
For Spring ’09, a blessedly calm presentation of live models mixed in with white shiny mannequins- commanded the stage of a wood paneled amphitheater located at the famous fashion school, FIT.
We were impressed by everything and made a mental note to never miss any future fashion week events by this designer!
Luckily we had a chance to chat with Steinunn about her modus operandi and inspiration for this glorious collection.
“I’m old school,” she notes-“I’m into world craft ...and texture is important.”
For this presentation of earthy colored garments, the red-walled volcanic crater Ljotipollur, off the coast of Iceland inspired Steinunn with its stark beauty and “saccharine shades”-as in ruby, charcoal black, white and moody greys.
The fabrics (like a super thin cotton voile, lush satin silks) and hand-applied embellishments like woven fringes- are immediately admired for their quality and “intricateness.”
“I’ve found an amazing factory in Yorkshire that does fabrics that no one has.”
In turn, Steinunn’s Parson's trained cutting skills-working with these often difficult textiles- enables her to turn out a knockout elegant collection of carefully tailored, superbly fitted dresses for day and night. Signature touches like cascading and/or layers of ruffles and fringes are applied just so- as to flatter the fitted silhouettes-in a restrained manner.
RETAIL: Kisan Concept Store- 125 Greene Street, NYC, Albertine, Takashimaya